Terry11's 4t45/4t65 Auto Swap
01-29-2013, 07:22 PM
#26
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Thanks bud wish it would have worked out on your ride. We'll find out sooner or later! I'll just be enjoying the car for a few months after the build is "done" before I try and test the waters some. I'm thinking middle of next month for the initial startup.
Got the trans linkage and shifter all bolted on and hooked up tonight. Still need to finish wiring the powertrain control solutions module and button up the charge pipes, gauges, and oil cooler hoses then we'll be in business.
Got the trans linkage and shifter all bolted on and hooked up tonight. Still need to finish wiring the powertrain control solutions module and button up the charge pipes, gauges, and oil cooler hoses then we'll be in business.
01-30-2013, 07:56 AM
#27
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Hmmm im really confused as to how this is going to work... never heard of anything like it before. It looks like a regular 4t45e just with the upgraded axle? Or are clutches for the 65 too? The thing that fails so hard with the 45 is that its so small and overheats so quickly. Also the clutches being so small too. I wouldnt think that the 65 clutches would fit in the 45... ive blown 4 45s 1 stock and 3 built. Looking like the 65 is the only option out there for me... but dont want to spend 15000 dollars on a trans either. When my cars only worth 6... lol
01-30-2013, 12:37 PM
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Hmmm im really confused as to how this is going to work... never heard of anything like it before. It looks like a regular 4t45e just with the upgraded axle? Or are clutches for the 65 too? The thing that fails so hard with the 45 is that its so small and overheats so quickly. Also the clutches being so small too. I wouldnt think that the 65 clutches would fit in the 45... ive blown 4 45s 1 stock and 3 built. Looking like the 65 is the only option out there for me... but dont want to spend 15000 dollars on a trans either. When my cars only worth 6... lol
The reason it looks a little funny is because it's the only one in existence. It was ran on 15psi from a 57mm with no issues at all. Right now i'm just looking forward to cruising around and familiarizing myself with the tuning software. When it does come time to track it i'm just looking for baseline numbers and hopefully I can gather a lot of good info on how my car will react coming off the line and learn how to set it up.
The car should stay cool I have full control of the fans through the pcs unit
02-05-2013, 05:21 PM
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Yeah I have an aluminum piece in there. Thats where the bung is going for the catch can "return line." If I even go that route the hoses might just stay pointed towards the ground forever. Or a big can with a massive breather just for cleanliness' sake.
02-06-2013, 05:03 PM
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I'm so used to the oil vapor smell it would almost be weird to not have it.
I would like to do it the right way. Both my lines to a nice big "can" then a 3/4" line back to the intake. I just don't know where to put it.
I'm probably going to be making an aluminum tank to put beside the coolant tank for extra trans fluid. Then it would be very easy to add more.
I would like to do it the right way. Both my lines to a nice big "can" then a 3/4" line back to the intake. I just don't know where to put it.
I'm probably going to be making an aluminum tank to put beside the coolant tank for extra trans fluid. Then it would be very easy to add more.
02-07-2013, 03:41 PM
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Such a Pioneer! How'd they do?
Ex I got a picture for you then. My dryer vent is perfectly hidden now. if anybody asks me I'm gonna lie my ass off it's aluminum haha
Ex I got a picture for you then. My dryer vent is perfectly hidden now. if anybody asks me I'm gonna lie my ass off it's aluminum haha
02-07-2013, 04:26 PM
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witt was the first, i think i was the second, and 06black was the third.
did just find, good solid top end, but the lash adjusters never fully adjusted to them. solid lifters, or shims will be needed. there is a dyno graph floating around somewhere of them on my m62 setup
did just find, good solid top end, but the lash adjusters never fully adjusted to them. solid lifters, or shims will be needed. there is a dyno graph floating around somewhere of them on my m62 setup
02-07-2013, 06:31 PM
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witt was the first, i think i was the second, and 06black was the third.
did just find, good solid top end, but the lash adjusters never fully adjusted to them. solid lifters, or shims will be needed. there is a dyno graph floating around somewhere of them on my m62 setup
did just find, good solid top end, but the lash adjusters never fully adjusted to them. solid lifters, or shims will be needed. there is a dyno graph floating around somewhere of them on my m62 setup
02-07-2013, 09:14 PM
#43
Nice to see this thing going together.
One suggestion:
Instead of messing with a pedal switch for the cutout,
Just get a Hobbs switch from NAPA set at like 7-10 psi. Seems easier to me; that's what I plan on doing soon.
One suggestion:
Instead of messing with a pedal switch for the cutout,
Just get a Hobbs switch from NAPA set at like 7-10 psi. Seems easier to me; that's what I plan on doing soon.
02-08-2013, 11:08 AM
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Thanks for the idea! I can actually do it with my trans controller and a spare digital output wire. I can command it to open at whatever throttle percentage I want
02-09-2013, 04:13 AM
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Big problems on start up tonight.
1.) I keep getting cam sensor timing codes and I checked it 3 times. I know how to properly time the engine and the sensor. I've ran my car with the cam sensor out of time before it just takes a while to start so i know thats not why it's going into "EPR" and/or Engine Disabled.
2.) My throttle body is going crazy like fluttering violently when I crank the motor. As soon as I do it kicks into EPR and slams the tb shut when the engine fires and kills the motor. I'm getting tps codes and p1516 almost seems like my tb took a ****.
And when it throws EPR and Engine Disabled I get a bunch of pcm codes.
I don't know why a throttle body would cause all that maybe I have something else going on, but I'm going to start from there. What makes me think its the tb is when I clear the codes and turn the key back on the tb responds to the pedal movement perfectly, but as soon as I turn it over it kicks like 5 codes goes into Engine Power Reduced and closes the tb instantly. The car won't even stay running for 3 seconds.
My best guess on the cam sensor timing is it needs a case relearn, but I need it to run in order to do that. Yayyyyyyy love it
1.) I keep getting cam sensor timing codes and I checked it 3 times. I know how to properly time the engine and the sensor. I've ran my car with the cam sensor out of time before it just takes a while to start so i know thats not why it's going into "EPR" and/or Engine Disabled.
2.) My throttle body is going crazy like fluttering violently when I crank the motor. As soon as I do it kicks into EPR and slams the tb shut when the engine fires and kills the motor. I'm getting tps codes and p1516 almost seems like my tb took a ****.
And when it throws EPR and Engine Disabled I get a bunch of pcm codes.
I don't know why a throttle body would cause all that maybe I have something else going on, but I'm going to start from there. What makes me think its the tb is when I clear the codes and turn the key back on the tb responds to the pedal movement perfectly, but as soon as I turn it over it kicks like 5 codes goes into Engine Power Reduced and closes the tb instantly. The car won't even stay running for 3 seconds.
My best guess on the cam sensor timing is it needs a case relearn, but I need it to run in order to do that. Yayyyyyyy love it
