Terry11's 4t45/4t65 Auto Swap
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From: Lewisburg, Pa
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From: Chandler AZ
A 4t45 that's good for 650 wtq? Can't say I have ever seen or heard of that... do you have his contact information ? I'd like like call and ask him a few questions or just have him build me one... im on my 7th trans....
Nobody cares anyway lol well minus you that is! It's not what "everyone else" is doing... I just like to get on here once and a while to see what's been going on
But yeah the update!
So while i was driving her to get inspected back in the fall I left my load reference wire for the stand alone unhooked (bad idea) and all it took was one time rolling into the throttle to completely smoke the forward clutches, the direct clutches, and the reverse clutches... Don't ask lol It's funny how I can put the entire thing together, wire it, tune it, and think it'll be ok to drive without the only wire hooked up to control line pressure.
Sometimes I amaze myself. I mean I figured I would be rebuilding her eventually but not this soon.
So as it stands RIGHT NOW I actually spoke to my trans guy today and by the time I get home from California my 4t45 will be back together with all new clutches/steels that are good for 650 and some billet accumulator pistons. Oh and a welded diff compliments of this guy.
I am pulling the motor out when I get home tho. Found a tiny eternal head gasket leak when i dropped the trans so I'm going to have the head decked and looked over again before the tranny goes back in. Last time i dropped the car down onto the engine/trans/sub frame it worked super slick so thats why I just decided to yank it out again. Easier to do the head work that way, time it, and bolt the trans on when its out of the car. Then I can tidy up some wiring, plug a few holes, and maybe do some paint work.
But before it hits the street this spring I have a few...Other plans for her. I don't think I showed you guys that intake manifold either. I was really happy with how that turned out!
But yeah the update!
So while i was driving her to get inspected back in the fall I left my load reference wire for the stand alone unhooked (bad idea) and all it took was one time rolling into the throttle to completely smoke the forward clutches, the direct clutches, and the reverse clutches... Don't ask lol It's funny how I can put the entire thing together, wire it, tune it, and think it'll be ok to drive without the only wire hooked up to control line pressure.
Sometimes I amaze myself. I mean I figured I would be rebuilding her eventually but not this soon. So as it stands RIGHT NOW I actually spoke to my trans guy today and by the time I get home from California my 4t45 will be back together with all new clutches/steels that are good for 650 and some billet accumulator pistons. Oh and a welded diff compliments of this guy.
I am pulling the motor out when I get home tho. Found a tiny eternal head gasket leak when i dropped the trans so I'm going to have the head decked and looked over again before the tranny goes back in. Last time i dropped the car down onto the engine/trans/sub frame it worked super slick so thats why I just decided to yank it out again. Easier to do the head work that way, time it, and bolt the trans on when its out of the car. Then I can tidy up some wiring, plug a few holes, and maybe do some paint work.
But before it hits the street this spring I have a few...Other plans for her. I don't think I showed you guys that intake manifold either. I was really happy with how that turned out!
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Unfortunately, thats not the context in which I was speaking in. The clutch packs I found can handle that much power, however there are many other weak parts in the 4t45 that break long before that power level. What clutch module are you using when you rebuild it? And did you add a very large cooler with a good electric fan? Also billet accumulator pistons are available for the 45 as well. All are cheap and good improvements. I can get you part #s if needed
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From: Chandler AZ
Unfortunately, thats not the context in which I was speaking in. The clutch packs I found can handle that much power, however there are many other weak parts in the 4t45 that break long before that power level. What clutch module are you using when you rebuild it? And did you add a very large cooler with a good electric fan? Also billet accumulator pistons are available for the 45 as well. All are cheap and good improvements. I can get you part #s if needed
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Ah I figured. Its typically the clutch packs that end up getting welded together from the heat. Or the diff takes a **** and never goes into lock up and continues to self destruct itself from there by wearing out the clutch packs. Can't say I know what clutch module it is since im not the one rebuilding them but we've tried many different ones. As of late we've been trying the ones out of the her SS because theres a local here who's at 420 wtq and is holding fine on stock trans but im on my 3rd one of those. Have a decent size cooler up front. No added fans though. Part numbers would be helpful. That way I can at least compare to see if they're the same or not.
Run a HUGE cooler! delete your ac and use that lol Then use your rad fans to pull air through. Did I mention I'm going non intercooled?
haha thanks brother. Hahn manifold? lol I don't think this was yours. I built this one
My diff is welded so that solves that. And the part number is RCPS-29 (Raybestos)
Run a HUGE cooler! delete your ac and use that lol Then use your rad fans to pull air through. Did I mention I'm going non intercooled?
Thanks man! Started the fuse box relocate today I think thats what excites me the most out of this entire project lol
haha thanks brother. Hahn manifold? lol I don't think this was yours. I built this one
Run a HUGE cooler! delete your ac and use that lol Then use your rad fans to pull air through. Did I mention I'm going non intercooled?
Thanks man! Started the fuse box relocate today I think thats what excites me the most out of this entire project lol
haha thanks brother. Hahn manifold? lol I don't think this was yours. I built this one
Did you see the results of my setup I've been posting in the turbo lsj thread?
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From: Lewisburg, Pa
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From: Chandler AZ
My diff is welded so that solves that. And the part number is RCPS-29 (Raybestos)
Run a HUGE cooler! delete your ac and use that lol Then use your rad fans to pull air through. Did I mention I'm going non intercooled?
Thanks man! Started the fuse box relocate today I think thats what excites me the most out of this entire project lol
haha thanks brother. Hahn manifold? lol I don't think this was yours. I built this one
Run a HUGE cooler! delete your ac and use that lol Then use your rad fans to pull air through. Did I mention I'm going non intercooled?
Thanks man! Started the fuse box relocate today I think thats what excites me the most out of this entire project lol
haha thanks brother. Hahn manifold? lol I don't think this was yours. I built this one
yeah I won't be able to go not intercooled dont really have anymore room either. And im not deleting the ac in my daily... I live in az. Lol
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From: Donegal, PA (Pittsburgh Area)
I had a built lsd from engineered performance in a few of them. Its currently sitting in a 4t45e in the side of the yard. Lol
yeah I won't be able to go not intercooled dont really have anymore room either. And im not deleting the ac in my daily... I live in az. Lol
yeah I won't be able to go not intercooled dont really have anymore room either. And im not deleting the ac in my daily... I live in az. Lol
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I had a built lsd from engineered performance in a few of them. Its currently sitting in a 4t45e in the side of the yard. Lol
yeah I won't be able to go not intercooled dont really have anymore room either. And im not deleting the ac in my daily... I live in az. Lol
yeah I won't be able to go not intercooled dont really have anymore room either. And im not deleting the ac in my daily... I live in az. Lol
On spring full boost at 3500. On 13# full boost at 3400. Boat starting from full vac at 3k in 3rd. Near instant passing power.
7gph PCI. iat2 rises about 12* in a 3rd gear pull.
You're gonna love it.
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I'm going to be injecting five 2gph's (one in each intake runner) and one pre charger that will simply flash off inside the compressor housing and increase the wheels efficiency tremendously. Not all that hot air taking up space between the blades.
A combination of driving style and tuning. I wanted the maf pre turbo so that I could run a heavy meth jets.
Using both maf and ve the rich spike between shifts is minimal.
You just simply don't downshift or "engine break" to slow down.
Having the meth post maf lets you get ballsy with the jets. I'm running 7 PCI for now but will be adding a 5 post and possibly another depending on temps.
Main thing I'm using it for is compressor effeciency. Ethanol is the honey badger of pump fuels when it comes to iat's.
Using both maf and ve the rich spike between shifts is minimal.
You just simply don't downshift or "engine break" to slow down.
Having the meth post maf lets you get ballsy with the jets. I'm running 7 PCI for now but will be adding a 5 post and possibly another depending on temps.
Main thing I'm using it for is compressor effeciency. Ethanol is the honey badger of pump fuels when it comes to iat's.
Also, I shimmed the bov spring pretty heavy to make sure it is completely closed at idle. With these new injectors running so smooth I'm pulling over 20" of vac, so bov is set at 24"
It's not as loud as a normal one, but you have to tember it has far less air to "blow off" than a typical fmic setup. So it doesn't hurt that it doesn't open quite as much.
I've dug through the forums and I don't think anyone else has done this here. Let's show them what we're made of
It's not as loud as a normal one, but you have to tember it has far less air to "blow off" than a typical fmic setup. So it doesn't hurt that it doesn't open quite as much.
I've dug through the forums and I don't think anyone else has done this here. Let's show them what we're made of
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From: Chandler AZ
Lol typically i do this... But sometimes AC is nice when its 120 out.
Yeah, but if you delete the IC then the engine goes boom. lol
IAT1's are bad enough here compared to the rest of the US. It keeps the motor safe and allows you to add timing instead of knocking.
IAT1's are bad enough here compared to the rest of the US. It keeps the motor safe and allows you to add timing instead of knocking.
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From: Donegal, PA (Pittsburgh Area)
Lol typically i do this... But sometimes AC is nice when its 120 out.
Yeah, but if you delete the IC then the engine goes boom. lol
IAT1's are bad enough here compared to the rest of the US. It keeps the motor safe and allows you to add timing instead of knocking.
Yeah, but if you delete the IC then the engine goes boom. lol
IAT1's are bad enough here compared to the rest of the US. It keeps the motor safe and allows you to add timing instead of knocking.
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...ntercooled+e85
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...ntercooled+e85
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...ntercooled+e85
Here you go. Enjoy.
I've talked to the guy from johnson motorsports a bit. Him and drag chevette really know their stuff.
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...ntercooled+e85
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...ntercooled+e85
Here you go. Enjoy.
I've talked to the guy from johnson motorsports a bit. Him and drag chevette really know their stuff.
