Oh i want to go, its a long list.....
Alpine IVA-D100 H/U
Performance technique 5.1 channel decoder
JL 500/1 for subs
Alpine MRP320 for centers
Polk/Momo 400/4 for fronts
JL e4300 for rears
Blaubunkt 3.5 inchers under the hood (working on)
Kicker 3.5 inchers in the front pillers
Alpine Type R 6.5 Components in the doors
Rockford Fosgate 4 inchers in the center console sides
Power acoustic Tweeters under the ebrake lever( Temp, I had a bad one and didnt have the money to get something good at the time)
Rockford Fosgate 6 inch Subwoofer in the console
Alpine AI-Net CD Changer
Alpine I-Pod Cable
Playstation 2
Alpine type R 6.5 coaxials in the rear deck
Blaupunkt 5.25 components in the rear pillars (working on)
Kicker 5.25 Components in the trunk lid
2 Alpine type R 12 inch subs
Kinetik Audio 800 Power Cell
Kinetik Audio 2000 Power Cell..........

Needless to say, I have removed the spare tire, and now no longer need drop springs due to about 300lbs of stereo in the trunk.......

 

just wondering why are you putting speakers under the hood? is that RF sub the 6.5 He? and how are those kinetik batteries? u still got the stock alt? Stock bat?

 

would i need another battery, for two 12" alpine type-r subs, a brutus 1606 amp?

 

speakers are going under the hood for shows, removable brackets, so they will not be there all the time, yes on the rf sub, the kinetik batteries are amazing other than the weight, i have 4 amps running off them and get nearly no light dimming at all, still have stock alternator, and no, i replaced the stock battery with the kinetik 800

All in all, no, a decent 3-5 farad capacitor would be sufficient in my opinion. I had a 2 farad with a JL 500/1 and 2 type r 12's in my old setup, and that seemed to be fine.

 

Hey, that was one beautiful setup. In the stock of 2.4 (pioneer like mine), does it have an amp already w/c i will be replacing?
That's beauty

 

i think the stock pioneer system does have a factory amp. you will want to bypass it for optimum sound quaity in my opinion. thanks for the complimemnt btw

 

the pioneer 7 speaker does have an amp

 

I've heard that the amp doesn't really have the juice to power the system correctly, or something like that.

Would a new amp be like the first upgrade to look at if you were looking at installing a new system?

 

well i had most of my stuff before even buying this car so it was a lil different for me.

What you need to do first is see what exactly you cant to change or improve on the system itself.

If the volume is fine but you want a lil more clarity then just change out your speakers since most speakers are 4 ohm you will lose a bit of volume but since aftermarket speakers are more efficient it wont be too bad

If you want to gain more high end volume then you could just replace the amp But you might run into problems with the way the pioneer setup is done because the sub and 6X9s are using the same power If you just replace the amp check the ohm load of your wires before plugging them into the amp. You also might run into issues where the stock speakers may not be able to handle the power.

If you want more low end then i would take out the stock sub and put in an aftermarket sub and amp. You could still use the box if you find a shallow mount 10 but dont just replace the sub because it wont do much in terms of more volume

 

So far my stuff is on order through tweeter

Focal 165 Kf Front
focal 130 kp back
Focal fp 4.75

10 jl w3v3 with a jl amp 500.1 so i have room to grow

 

how do u think my car would handle it, if i just got the 1606 amp and two alpine 12" type-rs installed... without lights dimming or anything

 

i think you would be fine, just get a decent capacitor, or upgrade the battery to an optima yellow top..... id say get a kinetik, but they are $400 and up just about, way cheaper to get an optima.....

 

Did you have to modify anything to drill your amps right there? and how do you like them there?

 

see the board under the rear deck?
oh yah, and the rear seat latch pull thingies were moved to beside each amp, and the trunk light was removed. but the cap emitts plenty of light to see in there at night.

 

Clif Design 6.5 Components
Polk 6.5 coaxial
Infinity 6X9's 3way
Kicker12" subwoofer
50rms 2-channel amp
100rms 4-channel amp
Pioneer head-unit

I just need to install the 4-channel amp and the 12" sub and i'll be finished. I think I might need an equalizer. I'll take photos when I install the sub. Sometime between May 7-10. I wanted to know if I wire my 4ohm DVC subwoofer to 8ohms, what kind of RMS can I expect from my amp (I guess it around 150 bridged @ 8ohm). I should have got a 2ohm DVC. ugh.

 

Any issues with overheating? I was considering that with the G/f's car, but decided to go with a Shelf just under the rear deck. My 1/2" plexi is on order for Tuesday...

 

runs nice and cool. ill whip out my temp gun if youd like after a hour of pounding.

its better than those, who remove the spare and put amps in the hole.

 

You are hooking up the 4 channel to the sub? If you are, then just bridge each side and run one channle to each VC. I would assume you would get atleast 150W (@ 4 ohms) per VC that way. As long as it is clean power even if you are over powering your sub you should be fine, but just tone it down and be careful with the gains.

 

Alright. 4-channel amp. 2 channels will power the 6x9 and I will bridge the other two channels for the sub. My amp is 2ohm stable stereo(4ohm stable bridged) so i don't really have any choice but to wire my sub at 8ohms. Losing power there but what other options do I have. I'm trying to swap my Kicker 4ohm sub for a Kicker 2ohm sub which would solve my wiring dilemna. Until then, i'll keep y'all posted.

One more question regarding this install. My head-unit has a "sub-out". What I was wondering, if I use this "sub-out" as a source, could I safely wire my sub in independent setup..?? Why I ask is because I assume this source is a mono source so the negatives of wiring independent like gain and crossovers would be removed (both channels would recieve identical signals. not identical signals for DVC, no good). I'm not sure, someone please help me out.

-sk

I've read that in order for an enclosure to work properly it must be secured to prevent it from moving around and wasting energy which could be precious sound. How did you manage to secure the box to the car..?? My idea was to almost chain it to the rear seat using ring hangers and chain links. 4 chain-links and 8 ring hangers to attach each corner of the box to the rear of the seat.

 

The idea for securing the box is so that when you get in a crash a box doesnt hit you in the back... also it takes longer to steal. You could also argue that the box moving could effect sound but its not going to be a good argument because the only way it would waste energy is if it moved to a place that caused more cancelation then before and honestly most people have no idea about cancellation in the first place so they just throw the box in there and they are done with it. Now interms of the sub out thing i have no idea what your talking about. If you bridge your amp then your effectively giving it a mono output. And the "wiring independent like gain and crossovers would be removed" isnt true because the gain and crossovers are part of the amp itself so using a sub input to the amp and setting each coil on different channels still has plenty possiblity to mess up. It depends on your amp thou is the gain/ crossover for each channel or each front back pair?

 

First, my pioneer head-unit has three pairs of RCA outs. One pair for the front, one pair for the rear and one pair labeled "Sub-out" which I assume is for a subwoofer.

The 4 channel amp I have is kind of split up. There are two RCA inputs, two sets of gain, crossover etc... I wanted to know if I use the "Sub-out" as a source for two channels on my amp, can i wire my subwoofer/amp in an independent setup because both channels would be the same. In order for an independent wiring to work correctly on a DVC sub, the signals going to both voice coils must be darn close to exactly the same or else the voice coils will compete with each other and that could cause bad distortion and damage.

When I made reference to "wiring independent like gain and crossovers would be removed" i meant that if the signal coming from the "Sub-out" of my headunit was identicle for each channel, then the need to exactly match the gain and crossover would be removed, thus I could safely wire my sub independent to take full advantage of the wattage (instead of wiring a dumb 8ohm load on my 4ohm DVC sub to my amp).

 

ya using the sub out would probably be safer but it looks like you will get the same wattage no matter how its wired. If your amp is 100X4@4 200X4@2 and 400X2@4 then wired independently you will have each coil seeing the 100w but bridged @8 you will still see a 200w load and it will be much safer for your sub. I dont know the exact specs of your amp so maybe just maybe you might get more wattage with each coil per channel @4ohm but it just depends on how good it handles lower ohm loads (perfect amps will always double power when the ohm load is cut in half but no amp is perfect so while some can do so others cannot)

 

pioneer d3
pioneer 6X9 4-ways
MB Quart QSC 216 6.5" signature series component set
MB Quart PSC 216 6.5" premium series component set
Earthquake Subzero 12" subwoofer (Shaaaaakkkkkkeeeee)
Planet Audio Big Bang 150.4 amp ( 1200 watts, 150 watts RMS x 4, 300 peak x 4)
Planet Audio Big bang 1250.1 amp (1250 watts RMS)

have not had the chance to get it measured in the cobalt, but it hit 148.7 db in my 01 camaro ss on thermallab measured at dash. What do you guys think?

 

when i had my altima, this was my very first setup I ever did



then I went to this



gotta get a few other things done before I start workin on the cobalt..