McKeough

I can't say that this post was anymore beneficial to the forums than all the others you referred to. L2Common sense, I guess?

And yes, I know I'm wasting bandwidth too.

rockSTAR_SS

iTrader: (4)

Lol... You're so cool. I wish I could be just half as cool as you are. Maybe then I would understand why the hell you waste my time with nonsense that I really don't care to read. I'm using the "old" amp because it's what I need to do the job. If you would've read, if you can, you would've noticed that I said I'm buying all NEW pioneer's
because the NEW clarion speakers I have arent cutting it.

Unlike you, I have a life that requires more attention than some pass-time thread on the internet. I work two jobs to pay for the things I own and am not readily available to do all the things I want to do immediately. This is a PROJECT thread, which is actually in the title(again, refering to your inablility to read...or comprehend).

Nice try tho. Jackass Go flame someone elses thread.

balt21

understandable, it is a pain to get that rear deck in and out. i think it will look good in black suede. the only thing i might be worried about is if the sun would eventually fade it; but if you have tinted windows that shouldnt be too much of a problem.

looking forward to more pics

rockSTAR_SS

iTrader: (4)

Thanks, I'm actually about to start working on it. Just as soon as I shower up and stuff... Covered in coal from work. Bbl

Switt23

iTrader: (7)

Who said old was bad? I have some older PPI amps that would literally smack the living snot out of half the "new" amps on the market.

rockSTAR_SS

iTrader: (4)

I do have pictures AND progress, as little as it may be.

Here's the written portion.. I mounted temporarily mounted the amp to the rear deck. You'll see in the pictures. This is how the amp will sit. To cut down on vibrations, I'll be dynamating everything and putting some type of sound deadener between the wooden spacer and the metal deck. There are a few vibrations that I need to find before I dynamat everything tho. I also need to relocate the two ground cables located on the deck by the drivers side 6x9. You can see these in a previous.

I haven't mounted the speaker spacers yet, nor have I cut them because my jig saw blade isn't long enough and I don't have the correct saw to cut the lengthy angle cut I need to make. So, I'll be working on that during my long 4 day weekend... now to the pictures (8 of em, so beware)!!







Sorry for some of the pictures being blurry. I waited too long to take them and it was getting dark outside. The light reflecting off the rear glass and deck made a glare in some of them.

I've decided to just go to a sound shop and purchase speakers from them instead of ordering them offline. Advanced Audio in Pascagoula will be the one I go to because I deal with them the most. All suggestions welcome!!!

balt21

looks like a good setup. are you just going to have the top of the amp coming through the rear deck or some of the sides as well? i guess what im asking is will the amp and speakers be level height wise?

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

what are u looking for speaker wise?

Spun

iTrader: (1)

Nice looking so far
I myself just had my trunk done in black suede and I love the look of it, combine that with some yellow highlights and it should look pimp.
Heres my question, if you, if you have to bend the deck lid to get it back in, did you remove the the b or c or whatever there called pillars to get it out.
If you remove them you shouldn't have to bend it at all. In any case remember that back deck lid gets wet if you have the windows down while its raining, usualy just around the sides and not that much but enough that it would dis-colour black suede, but it might not do much harm to yellow
One more question, are you driving around without those grounds on back there?
I'm fairly sure thode are the tail light grounds and not being attached might cause your brake lights to not work.
Suggestions for speakers, I just swapped out my infinity front speakers for Hertz and its a huge improvement...Go with Hertz

rockSTAR_SS

iTrader: (4)

I'd actually like the amp to sit a little lower since it's in the middle and I'd still like to see out my back window thru the rear view. It's not a big difference, but whenever I get the speakers secured today I'll be sure to get back to you on this.


Nothing extraordinarly special, but I do want it to be loud. No like rattle my car to pieces with bass loud, but loud, clear music. I've talked to the people at Advanced Audio before and they've shown me a few speakers previously. They ones they showed me would need an amp. I also wanna be able to show these speakers off too. I will be mounting them differently then they are normally mounted... Catch my drift? I'm trying to stay within the pioneer brand also just to keep the original scheme of the car going...

They have been removed, but without taking out more panels (the ones surrounding the back triangle window) I still cannot get the rear deck to slide back in perfectly without fear of break the hardened surface. Lol I usually don't drive around with my windows down while it's raining, but thanks for the heads up No, I just unhooked the grounds last night. I'm moving them to different places in the rear deck to get them outta the way this morning. I'll be removing the amp cover once it's time to install everything and will probably be painting it yellow. I'll also probably paint the speaker grills yellow. So we'll see how that turns out...

Thanks for all yours questions! I'll be back later hopefully with some progress on the speaker spacers...(gotta find a saw to cut them with)

balt21

really? i love my infinity speakers. there is very little bass in them, but if you have subs thats a good thing, thats basically why i like them.
yea, thats what i was thinking too. it would look cool sunk down as well IMO.

Switt23

iTrader: (7)

Hertz is an AMAZING brand for components. They can get price just like the DLS's or Focal or Rainbows... but are worth every penny.

rockSTAR_SS

iTrader: (4)

Okay guys some bad news. When I went to cut my speaker spacers today they broke XD i guess that was a poor design. To recover, I'm going to lowes tomorrow to pick up some 1/2" MDF board to try and come up with a new design for this rear deck..... This blows really bad and will set me back... There is a major car show coming up in two weeks. I probably won't finish by then, but I'm going to do all I can to get this done asap.

However, there is some good news. Kevin and I rode down to the coast today and got his nitrous bottle filled... On the way back we stopped at Advanced Audio and picked up a line-out converter. Then, I stopped at Empress Audio and Marine and bought a new pair of 5-way pioneer 6x9's and priced a shallow mount sub to replace the one that came with the car. I think the price was somewhere around $159. It's an 800 watt pioneer... The guy tried selling me an alpine amp and a pair of alpine type-r 6.5" and tweeters... He put a good price on them, but I refused.

So, when I got back, I went ahead and hooked up the line-out converter, did away with the broken speaker spacers and just mounted the new 6x9's in the stock holes. Hooked them up to the amp (set on 2 channel, 150w @ 2 ohms going to each VERY NICE) barely turned the amp up to break them in for a week or two. I'll post up pictures tomorrow. THIS IS ONLY TEMPORARY UNTIL I COME UP WITH THE NEW DESIGN. So no worries folks. Don't be flaming me when you see the pictures tomorrow lol it will be fixed I promise.

Until then.....

balt21

hmm ill have to look for these. i havent seen them at any of the local audio shops around my area. do they have much bass to them or more of a highs speaker?
that sucks, good luck with the new design. i looked at the type-r when i was getting mine but with subs they make too much bass for my liking.

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

actually they are pretty bassy speakers but also sound clean. very hard to describe because its not really a combo normally seen in speakers. Oh and the reason why there arent very many local dealers is 200 or so are in the US all together (i work at one) look them up hertzaudiovideo.com

rockSTAR_SS

iTrader: (4)

I need an amp to power that 800watt pioneer shallow mount folks. Yes, I'd like for it to be pioneer if at all possible lol any website recommendations? Unfortunately I won't be able to get it this month, but I'll be replacing it very soon hopefully... I just like getting my act together as soon as possible.

rockSTAR_SS

iTrader: (4)

Here's what my rear deck currently looks like. This was taken at the drive thru at Macdonalds today lol my windows are too dark for people to see in without being super close and it's a good thing too. This is a mess. So far the speakers are working out great. I barely have my amp turned up and these things scream! 5 way FTW!



I'll be getting my first sheet of 1/2" mdf this weekend to start on a new design I've been thinking of. Something easier and it will do away with the old rear deck cover all together. Stay tuned for more action!

balt21

there stuff looks pretty good. im gonna keep them in mind for the next time i buy some audio stuff.
crutchfield.com is a good place to start to get an idea of whats out there and about how much you will pay. i was just looking at the pioneer subs, is yours the TS-SW251? if it is that is a 200 RMS watt sub(RMS is more important than peak power); the GM-7300M would probably be a good match, or the GM-D7400M if you want a class-D amp. both of those are Pioneer, the first is class AB and second is class D.

yellowltcoupe22

ha i think i've seen that rear deck before..

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

lol how dark is ur tint? im rocking 2%

cobaltguy88

gawd dam..

yellowltcoupe22

if your askin bout trey's (rockstarss) tint its 7%. i looks really light in that last pic he posted thou.

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

ya it did... im just guesstimating its 2% thou im not 100%... i have 2 layers of 5% (so 2.5% there) and a layer of 35%

i did it because im planning on moutning amps to the rear deck and i wanted to make sure there was no way in hell they could be seen. I had dealer installed 35% (reflective grey) and i had a single layer of 5% put on... couldnt really see in but sorta could blah blah blah went in a few days later for a second layer of 5%. Now even driving with the sun straight at the window it looks like night time. Im used to it thou everyone else freaks out and says "how can u see out"

rockSTAR_SS

iTrader: (4)

Damn 2%!! That's tight as hell... Mine is 7% like kevin said.

I'll look at crutchfield today then. Thanks for your suggestions. I'll definitely check them out. Kevin, you told me another website but I can't remember the name of it to save my life lol

Okay so I went on crutchfield and found the sub I looked at the other day at Empress Audio. Here's the link http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...541&c=3&tp=111

Also like you said I think the GM-7300M will go perfect with the speaker linked to above. That's a hella good price too! Here's the link to the GM-7300M for those of you who don't know which we're talking about. http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...GM7300M&tp=115 It has all the specs listed.

Now, my question for you is....wtf does class ab and d mean? lol I a little about speakers and what not,such as matching up RMS from the amp to RMS for the speaker(s) and peak power, but nothing to that extent. Ohms kill me. I go completely blank when people start talkin ohms and class. Mind giving me a 101?

yellowltcoupe22

and easy way to explain it... ohm is the electrical resistance between to conductors. simply said the lower the ohm the easier it is to make an electrical connecttion. some one correct me if im wrong.

the class d amp.. well heres a def of how it works.Class D
Main article: Switching amplifier
These use switching to achieve a very high power efficiency (more than 90% in modern designs). By allowing each output device to be either fully on or off, losses are minimized. The analog output is created by pulse-width modulation, i.e. the active element is switched on for shorter or longer intervals instead of modifying its resistor. There are more complicated switching schemes like sigma-delta modulation, to improve some performance aspects like lower distortions or better efficiency.

and heres how the class ab works. Class AB
Here the two active elements conduct more than half of the time as a means to reduce the cross-over distortions of Class B amplifiers. In the example of the complementary emitter followers a bias network allows for more or less quiescent current thus providing an operating point somewhere between Class A and Class B. Sometimes a figure is added, e.g. AB1 or AB2, with higher figures implying a higher quiescent current and therefore more of the properties of Class A.

basically a class d is more efficent to run at high power for the purpose of pushin high wattage subs.