RCA Inputs dont work?
RCA Inputs dont work?
well I was rolling down the street thumping today then all of the sudden the subs cut out, i have had a issue with the RCA inputs before where if you would push the inputs to the right they would cut out...but now it wont work at all. my question is is it possible to replace these inputs by themselves? it seems like they would just be soldered to the board and a easy fix if i can get the parts
any help appericated
any help appericated
im not sure if i have any "new" ones but i could send you some rcas inputs from one of those amps if you want them. they are just soldered in but you need to take out the board to do it
lol the cover is the least of your worries man. its a T15 btw
to pull out the board theres about 40 of those screws holding the board in and the cover for the rcas is a little tricky too
to pull out the board theres about 40 of those screws holding the board in and the cover for the rcas is a little tricky too
ahh one of the speaker wires came off the terminal inside the box, so i drilled 2 more holes and now ive got a 1 set of speaker wires running to each VC
ehhhhhhhhh??
maybe im talking about something different but ive just got a individual wire running to each pos/neg instead of connecting the first VC with the 2nd with a short piece of speaker wire
https://www.cobaltss.net/gallery/sho...mageuser=10015
same as yours....i was considering using 8g cause i can order it for super cheap but i dont think id even notice a difference from 10g speaker wire
maybe im talking about something different but ive just got a individual wire running to each pos/neg instead of connecting the first VC with the 2nd with a short piece of speaker wire
https://www.cobaltss.net/gallery/sho...mageuser=10015
same as yours....i was considering using 8g cause i can order it for super cheap but i dont think id even notice a difference from 10g speaker wire
Last edited by brickloaf; Jul 16, 2010 at 11:52 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
right right. you wouldnt notice a difference from the 10g to the 8g. possibly from the single run to 2 runs thou. at the shop we always run separate runs per coil to the terminal cup. you would be surprised how common that used to be what ur talking about
But remember i have quad voice coil subs so if i ran a set per coil i would need 8 runs per side instead of the 4. 16 runs of 8g coming out of the box is way to excessive. I have them ran in series inside the box essentially making them dual coil persay
But remember i have quad voice coil subs so if i ran a set per coil i would need 8 runs per side instead of the 4. 16 runs of 8g coming out of the box is way to excessive. I have them ran in series inside the box essentially making them dual coil persay
**** no wonder...i didnt know you had quad coils...
either way it seems to be thumpin harder with the second run but i dont use the terminals on the terminal cup, i just drilled holes through the cup and routed the wire through then sealed the holes
either way it seems to be thumpin harder with the second run but i dont use the terminals on the terminal cup, i just drilled holes through the cup and routed the wire through then sealed the holes
yup mathmaticlly its the best configuration for the tinsil leads to get the least currnet per lead making it the least likly to fail due to burinign up the tinsil leads. not that i actually run enough power to my subs to do that but still.
hell ya thats the way to do it man. as far as customers go we always put a terminal cup (solder the connection so its better then crimped) because it makes the most sense as a "business" but straight wires with silicone is the best connection as far as current flow. With a T2k the 10g is probably the only thing that saved you from burning up the wire. even thou its ac but not dc doubling the run + taking out the terminal cup from the equation makes a big difference. Running a single run then jumper to the second coil is an overall bad connection wire aside
hell ya thats the way to do it man. as far as customers go we always put a terminal cup (solder the connection so its better then crimped) because it makes the most sense as a "business" but straight wires with silicone is the best connection as far as current flow. With a T2k the 10g is probably the only thing that saved you from burning up the wire. even thou its ac but not dc doubling the run + taking out the terminal cup from the equation makes a big difference. Running a single run then jumper to the second coil is an overall bad connection wire aside
well the way i see it, you got 2500rms give or take running through 10g wire which has to be restricting, even if it were 8g it would still prob be pushing it..
add in another run then your only putting 1250rms through each run which is obviously a huge improvement
add in another run then your only putting 1250rms through each run which is obviously a huge improvement
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