UPDATED General Stereo FAQ - READ THIS!
#433
ok ive just read through all 18 pages, and most of the related threads. this has helped alot but i still have two questions, i have an 05 ss factory pioneer system, im upgrading to a kenwood kdc 352u head unit, and ive installed a bunch of head units before, but nothing that seems this complicated. ive been looking all over the internet, and almost every site says something different for the harness used to upgrade the head unit, im not looking to spend alot but i would like to retain the factory chimes and what not, and i know ill have to get the steering wheel adapter to keep those, what are the harnesses i would need. thanks man
oh and no onstar
oh and no onstar
Last edited by Dropped254; 01-04-2013 at 02:00 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#437
Thanks a ton for all the great info EmperorJJ
My setup: 07 SS/SC with Pioneer system (no XM or Onstar)
I've removed the factory sub and connected the four wires that were connected to the subwoofer to the speaker level inputs on my amp (JL 1000/1, running two 12's). I thought it was my crappy subs, but I heard my friends cobalt, same year, same model, same amp and subs, but he has aftermarket deck and completely removed the factory amp, and his system has way better low frequency response. With my system I had to add a lot of bass boost centred at 25hz. I listen to a lot of music around 27hz and without the boost, I get very little output this low.
So, I got a tone generator program for my laptop and plugged it into the aux jack and did some tests with my friends car and mine, and this is what I've come up with.
The factory amp has a subsonic filter set pretty high (around 35hz). Below 35hz the output drops drastically.
What I would like to do is run my sub amp from a line level source taken BEFORE the factory amp. I've read if you just t-tap wires into the existing line level speaker wires coming out of the back of the factory HU that you'll blow the factory amp or speakers or something. Is this true? If it IS possible, do you know what wires I would tap in to?
There is also the possibility that the factory HU just does not do well under 35hz, so even tapping into the line level source for my sub amp may not solve my problem
Any information you could provide would be greatly appreciated!
-Jamie M.
My setup: 07 SS/SC with Pioneer system (no XM or Onstar)
I've removed the factory sub and connected the four wires that were connected to the subwoofer to the speaker level inputs on my amp (JL 1000/1, running two 12's). I thought it was my crappy subs, but I heard my friends cobalt, same year, same model, same amp and subs, but he has aftermarket deck and completely removed the factory amp, and his system has way better low frequency response. With my system I had to add a lot of bass boost centred at 25hz. I listen to a lot of music around 27hz and without the boost, I get very little output this low.
So, I got a tone generator program for my laptop and plugged it into the aux jack and did some tests with my friends car and mine, and this is what I've come up with.
The factory amp has a subsonic filter set pretty high (around 35hz). Below 35hz the output drops drastically.
What I would like to do is run my sub amp from a line level source taken BEFORE the factory amp. I've read if you just t-tap wires into the existing line level speaker wires coming out of the back of the factory HU that you'll blow the factory amp or speakers or something. Is this true? If it IS possible, do you know what wires I would tap in to?
There is also the possibility that the factory HU just does not do well under 35hz, so even tapping into the line level source for my sub amp may not solve my problem
Any information you could provide would be greatly appreciated!
-Jamie M.
#438
you could get the signal before the factory amp BUT you wouldnt be able to use an LOC. you would have to run the signal straight from the radio output to the amps RCA input. You would use something like below, the only issue with that is a possible risk of noise induced into the system.
Rockford Fosgate Signal Converters: FM modulators, signal converters, ground loop isolators. Car Audio for Fanatics. - RFI2SW - Rockford FosgateŽ
and the possibility of the sound going to the amp being filtered is there but its pretty low. since GM made 2 separate HU's im sure it would cost more to have the audio filtered at both the HU and the amp. Then again having the SS radio with the LS filtering may save costs as well (i guarantee GM did whatever was cheaper to build)
Rockford Fosgate Signal Converters: FM modulators, signal converters, ground loop isolators. Car Audio for Fanatics. - RFI2SW - Rockford FosgateŽ
and the possibility of the sound going to the amp being filtered is there but its pretty low. since GM made 2 separate HU's im sure it would cost more to have the audio filtered at both the HU and the amp. Then again having the SS radio with the LS filtering may save costs as well (i guarantee GM did whatever was cheaper to build)
#439
I'd like to give it a try, getting the line level output of the HU (without affecting the existing speakers), do you have any idea which wires I would be T-tapping on the back of the HU or the factory amp? (not sure which one is easier to get to)
Thanks.
-Jamie M.
#441
#444
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I appreciate the help in advance... been a while since I've been on here. I'm replacing the stock HU in a Cobalt 2010 lt (non Pioneer of course).
Going off the original post, I'm using the Metra 70-2104 harnass and looking for a pin out of the harness so I can match them up to the car wires. I have to double check but I dont believe the colors match up.
Going off the original post, I'm using the Metra 70-2104 harnass and looking for a pin out of the harness so I can match them up to the car wires. I have to double check but I dont believe the colors match up.
#445
hmm the colors should be matching. do the speaker wires match up?
Right Rear Spkr (-) Light Blue
Left Rear Spkr (-) Yellow
Right Rear Spkr (+) Dark Blue
Left Rear Spkr (+) Brown
Left Front Spkr (+) Tan
Right Front Spkr (+) Light Green
Left Front Spkr (-) Light Gray
Right Front Spkr (-) Dark Green
Right Rear Spkr (-) Light Blue
Left Rear Spkr (-) Yellow
Right Rear Spkr (+) Dark Blue
Left Rear Spkr (+) Brown
Left Front Spkr (+) Tan
Right Front Spkr (+) Light Green
Left Front Spkr (-) Light Gray
Right Front Spkr (-) Dark Green
#446
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#447
looks relatively correct. the power ground and speaker wires look right. acc(red) ill (orange) dont exist anyway so unless im looking at it wrong the only one thats off is the blue remote wire (which is generally the pink/white wire, that looks to be at the very end there)
#448
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
So I 'm thinking about picking this up Boss BV9364BI In-Dash 6.2" Touchscreen DVD/CD/MP3/USB/SD Car (nothing too fancy) and got a few questions.
I have pioneer in my '08 with XM and onstar. I don't care about onstar or XM as I don't use them any way. Am I just going to need the Scoshe GMSR13SR, CRAB and metra 70-2104? Also, which PAC do I need? This one seems like it might do the job for steering controls but I'm not sure, just don't want to miss anything.
I have pioneer in my '08 with XM and onstar. I don't care about onstar or XM as I don't use them any way. Am I just going to need the Scoshe GMSR13SR, CRAB and metra 70-2104? Also, which PAC do I need? This one seems like it might do the job for steering controls but I'm not sure, just don't want to miss anything.
#449
ugh that unit hurts me a little bit
you would need to choose between either the Scosh or the metra harness you wouldnt need both. crab is right and as far as the steering controls you may want to go with the metra units. according to the page they are compatable (i dont see the normal wired remote plug in on the back so)
Steering Wheel Control Ready: Axxess ASWC or Axxess ASWC-1 required and sold separately
you would need to choose between either the Scosh or the metra harness you wouldnt need both. crab is right and as far as the steering controls you may want to go with the metra units. according to the page they are compatable (i dont see the normal wired remote plug in on the back so)
Steering Wheel Control Ready: Axxess ASWC or Axxess ASWC-1 required and sold separately
#450
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
ugh that unit hurts me a little bit
you would need to choose between either the Scosh or the metra harness you wouldnt need both. crab is right and as far as the steering controls you may want to go with the metra units. according to the page they are compatable (i dont see the normal wired remote plug in on the back so)
Steering Wheel Control Ready: Axxess ASWC or Axxess ASWC-1 required and sold separately
you would need to choose between either the Scosh or the metra harness you wouldnt need both. crab is right and as far as the steering controls you may want to go with the metra units. according to the page they are compatable (i dont see the normal wired remote plug in on the back so)
Steering Wheel Control Ready: Axxess ASWC or Axxess ASWC-1 required and sold separately