Hi all! I'm new here, and new to owning a 07 SS/SC.

Preliminary;

I purchased the car at a steal of a price (8600) with 118k miles, one owner, no accidents, good service track record.

It has a 77.5mm 4 bolt pulley on the supercharger (stamped on side), and larger injectors. I've seen up to 17#'s on the gauge. 77.5mm to inches is 3.05in.

The pulley/injectors look similar to GM's PN 17803229.

The reason I was able to talk them down on the price at the dealership was the unknowns, clutch, supercharger/trans fluid changes, rear rotors felt warped, engine rpm's dive-surge-level out after pressing in the clutch (probably need to clean the sensors), and a few minor bumps/bruises (one small dent, some light scratches, a few interior pieces to change out).

For the obvious clutch issue I ordered a ACT 6 puck sprung clutch and ACT Lightweight flywheel, and stock style pressure plate from Exedy. I ordered a generic CAI, Pace Setter header (will strip, clean, repaint with ceramic coating & bake), SRS Exhaust, Ingalls Torque Dampner (still need to order front/rear poly mount bushings), Carbon Steel Strut brace.

Question;

I'm NOT looking to make a race car out of this. Just a CLEAN, FUN, Weekend/Backup Daily Driver. With the supposed GM Stage 2 kit, clutch upgrade, and bolt ons, what might I see from a fair/good dyno tune?! Or should I even bother with one?

Thanks all for your time and thoughts!

 

You are likely in the 240-250whp range once all said boltons are installed. You will see gains from a tune, but to get the most bang for your buck, I would advise getting larger injectors and dropping pulley size to a 2.8. With this and cooling mods, plus a good tune, you should be in the 260whp range.

 

Will this ruin any/all daily driving abilities?! I don't wan to get to extreme with it.

IF I were to do the 2.8 (where would I find a 4 bolt pulley) and what injectors (for direct replacement).

Also, what about the electronic/vacuum controlled cutout? Won't this block the access boost pressure until it's tuned for the pulley?

My clutch setup will probably only be good for up to 300whp;
ACT Lightweight Flywheel
ACT 6 puck ceramic sprung clutch
Exedy OEM style Pressure Plate

I was thinking more along the lines, if anything, a water methanol injection setup similar to my current project build. But not as much of it. So that under boost, it I can cool temps a little, as well modify timing a bit more on the tables.

But which would be the safer bet?!
A) 2.8" pulley + Larger Injectors OR B) Water Methanol Injection

Like I said, NOT looking to make a race car. Just a backup daily/weekend fun car.

ALSO!!!!!!!

There's the cooling system aspect. Whats this 2 pass cooler thing I've read about? Should I DO this to make sure I don't run into any issues!

 

I've been daily driving with my 2.8 setup for many years now, 0 issues whatsoever. If you tune correctly these cars are very dependable. You can source a 4-bolt pulley from ottp, smoothflow, etc...

Cutouts, meh...not that popular for LSJ cars. You won't gain much if anything plus the noise will be unbearable. Hard to fit one if you remain catted too.

You won't see near 300whp unless you throw some major upgrades into it, don't worry about the clutch. Water/Meth is a good option depending on your goals, others can chime in about this or you can search.

Dual pass + Option B (or flow through tank) is a great cooling option. Do some searching.

 

Thanks for the info!

Cutout

^ not talking about an "Electronic Exhaust Cutout" I was referring to the Electronic Vacumm Controlled Cutout that vents excess boost back behind the TB on the Supercharger Intake Snout. Small flap/blade on the underside/belly of the supercharger.

I'll be looking into the 2.8" pulley and Injectors then! Not right away, but down the road. I've got a 500rwhp/rwtq build I've got going on I need to finish!

 

If your trying to keep drive ability I wouldn't do that aggressive of a clutch. Just go with exedy stage 2. Good drive ability and pretty strong. I free with hockey man a 2.8 with cooling mods and tune you'll have a lot of fun with the car

 

The factory bypass valve will not limit boost under most circumstances.

 

Lol. The bypass valve doesn't vent boost, it let's air get by the SCer without building boost for normal, non boost driving.

 

Do not put a generic intake on this car unless u want to throw cels n lose power.

 

I'm pretty sure the intake talk was covered already on here.
And headers were covered on this thread over on www.cobaltssdotcom/forums/showthread.php?t=7159 If you're smart enough, you'll know how to manipulate the url to make it work.

Ran into another maintenance item.

Doing more work, I realized the heat exchanger pump isn't working. About to order one from ZZP's site, but this brings me to another question. I've read slightly to see what benefits, if any, there are on A) Larger Heat Exchanger B) 2 pass intercooler plate. From almost everything I've read "There's no performance in a larger heat exchanger, the stock one is fine as long as it works. The biggest thing is that you don't want heat soak." I mean, it's a Water/Air cooler, but is it really make a noticeable difference? Especially if I'm not racing.

Question:
Is a 2 pass intercooler plate worth while?
And/Or is a larger/secondary heat exchanger worth while?

If they are then I'll add to the ZZP order for a pump and some additional items.

 

Don't bother with cooling mods on a stage 2 daily driven car. It's more trouble than it's worth. I idled my car from cold up until 180 degrees (coolant temp) and my s/c was barely warm to the touch. Outside temp was ~50.

Just make sure the i/c pump works and that you maintain the i/c fluid like you would engine coolant.

 

Why a cheap intake maaaan

 

Needs more cowbell!

Replace you IC pump and drive it

Unless your gonna mod it out, stg2 will be fine

 

I emailed ZZP. I'll be ordering a pump and 2 pass intercooler plate. The plate allows for better flow with the Bosch pump, according to ZZP. An apparently they have a reputation to uphold, so seems like a good source to get information from.

So this is how I see it as justifiable.

4gpm on 1 pass intercooler plate
~4 cores, one getting progressively hotter than the last, at 4gpm throughout it's entirety

6.25gpm on 2 pass intercooler plate
~2 cores at a time, 3.1125gpm per 2 cores

The coolant flows a little slower, but going through 2 cores, and not 4, it spends less time collecting heat soak.

In the end this to me means longer pump life from a less restrictive flow. And a little better cooling, not that I'll probably even notice it. But less stress on mechanical parts is always a plus. I'll be placing the order in the morning, and trying to get a military discount (might just be a forum post rumor, but we'll see).

Thanks for the input!

********Source from ZZP's site********

And I quote;

"The stock coolant pump for the liquid to air intercooler system is made by Bosch. ZZPerformance set out to collect some quick technical information on how this pump behaves in a real world environment. Here is what we came up with:

All things considered this pump outperforms anything we have ever used or tested. ZZPerformance has tested pumps from Rule, Flojet, Centri-puppy, Jabsco, Shurflo, Central machinery, Meziere, GM, JC whitney, Johnson, Attwood and others. We have been using various Bosch pumps for some time as they are OEM on quite a few cars and very reliable.

Free flowing the LSJ Bosch pump topped 8GPM with 13.1 volts and pegged our 12GPM gauge at 16+ volts.

When we added the most restrictive part of the LSJ intercooler system to the setup (the intercooler), flow dropped to ~4.5 GPM.

Anything over 4 GPM is good for an intercooler system, however with the flow dropping to 1/2 of what the pump is capable of; we knew there was room for gains. We installed our dual pass end plate on the intake and retested. This increased flow to 6.25 GPM at 13.1 volts which is very good.

This pump weighs 2.2 pounds, has 3/4" fittings and draws ~2.7amps at 13.5 volts. Depending on voltage and load it drew 1.8 amps at low voltage and 3.5 amps max at very high voltage. We do not believe there to be a better pump available when weight, current draw, flow and performance are all factored in."

end quote.

I don't find it justifiable to spend X amount more, if I won't see any gain on a Dyno, or from a tune. If I was doing a turbo setup, I would probably notice a difference from 2.75 and 3 inch intake tubes. But from what I'm doing, there's no point. It's a backup daily driver, and I'm having a little fun with it.

This is where I'm splurging with my money.

 

I've ran a cheap ebay intake before.. Nothing but problems. CELs and bogging. Stock would work best for you, and it's free and better.

 

Not saying you guys don't know what you're doing. But sounds more like dirty sensors and/or a bad tune. I've never had issues with any vehicles in the past doing custom or non name brand intakes.

Reason I say this is;

Why have only a hand full of people had issues w/ non name brand intakes, and others have no issues at all?!

Parts the same.
Cars the same.
Mods are different > per owner/car.
Climate/Altitude is different > per location!
Maintenance is different > per owner!
Tune > makes all the difference!

The biggest thing I've always noticed is that when people clean/recharge their filter, THEY SOAK IT WITH OIL! This oil can be sucked through, NOT a big deal! But if that oil collects, or get's on the MAF is when you're going to mess things up! That MAF is really sensitive, and to my knowledge, when I ask people how often they clean it I always hear "I haven't" "never" "no need to" "why, it's not giving me any issues".

 

The problem with the cheaper intakes is the location of the MAF itself, which is the cause of CELs and running poorly. On cars with no MAF on the intake, cheap intakes are fine. On our cars, NEWP.

Subject has been beaten to death, same with oiled air filters. Do some searching.

 

I do hope yours works for you, because the whine with a metal intake is a lot better. I do miss the loudness compared to the stock plastic. If not, take a look at ZZP's intake.

My experience with it was bad and the car pulled a lot harder with the stock intake. Just my .02.

 

Is the MAF to close to the filter, to far, exposed to-to much air, tube not large enough around the filter, whats the specific reasoning?! What design issue have name brand companies done to ensure this doesn't happen vs the non name brand?

Some claim to have had issues, others have not. Ever since Ford everything now goes through the same steps in the manufacturing process, as well testing. Again, why is it that some people have issues, and others do not, with these non name brand intakes?! I could see maybe to much air passing over the filament in the MAF, but with a good O2 sensor, and a tune, this could be easily fixed. Maybe to close to the filter, it might throw a code by cooling the filament to quickly making it seem as if more air is passing by it than there actually is. But again, the O2 sensor would notice a lean/rich condition, and the tables in the tune could be easily corrected. Regardless of how close/far the filament is located, or intake tube size by .25". With clean/proper working sensors and a tune I don't see how this would effect anything!

Hate to be so stubborn, but I just don't see what would cause an issue.

The only difference I've visually seen in the intake's would be the area around the MAF itself. Some seem to have the MAF mount location bumped out. Some manufactures enlarge the tube from 2.75" to 3" around the MAF allowing less air to pass through/over the filament. Now if the one I have is 2.75", it's going to cause more air to pass over the filament, making it think it's using more air, or cooler denser air. In this case, a properly reading O2 sensor, and a tune will easily rectify the situation.

Working with math, working with computers for a living, having built a few toys already, I just don't see what issues a non name brand (generic) intake would cause. If you modify something, and you don't tune it, then you're going to have issues regardless.

 

Buy the cheap ebay intake, report your results. You're beating this to death after most of us have already expressed our thoughts and concerns. A name brand intake = peace of mind. eBay generic intake = a cheap clone/copy off of another brand which may or may not function correctly. If you want to take a gamble on the cheap intake, it's your $$. Another plus side of a branded unit would be that it includes a good filter while generic will not.

 

In for CEL.

Who's doing the tuning?

 

My 2 cents coming from someone with absolutely 0 experience with these cars prior to joining this forum.

I have twice bought generic intakes for cars I have owned. No CEL's but then those cars were no FI. In both cases I had fitment problems and spent more time and energy fixing those.

Fast Forward to my 2006 SS/SC and I have CEL's with the stock intake. Get it checked out and dealer says fuel pump. Pay for that and next day again with the CEL. Dealer told me that the stock intake box supports were broken and it would cost 500 to fix. Did some reading and of all the intakes availabel to me up here in Canada I ended up buying the Injen based on immediate availablity and price.

Installed in about 1 hour and drove until CEL went off. (about 15 minutes)

Since then I have read and read about what has worked for people and asked questions along the way. So far I have not been given ANY bad advice. Learned a ton and have a solid daily driver.

For my money I would get an aftermarket name brand intake on a tax sale. Money well spent....Oh and the Whine is SPECTACULAR!!

 

This.

Not trying to offend u op..but u have a lot to learn about Lsj's and their pickiness.....

 

Looking forward to a new 00171 thread. Good luck and have fun.

 

There's no reason to change the intake. Use a smaller pulley and do some blower work if you want to hear the supercharger. The Cobalt Cup Car uses the stock airbox, and for a good reason.