Jn2's turbo build thread
yeah i have the knock off tyre rs BOV, it will get the job done, i will upgrade to a real greddy one later on...all i need is a manifold and the CAI and i can finish the pping and make the dp for it
alright i am seeing if i can get the MAF bung from anywhere else, i have enough pipes lef over from the routing to make it all the way to the TB and still have more left,that IC kit really overkilled...lol, and i thought i might need 2, well i need a MAF bung, i dont have one, and i dont have a aftermarket intake to use, so i was going to buy the ebay intake and use that piping, but 65 bucks for just a bung, i PM'd turbotech to see if they could come up with a pipe with a MAF bung, kinda how the BOV pipe has a BOV flange on it, something simular to that, if not than f'that, im going to grind down my stock airbox and use the MAF section from it, just sand is nice and smooth and give it a shot of paint...im not spending that much for just a f*in pipe
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Joined: 07-08-05
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From: Niceville, FL
Looks goo and just the right size for the job! 
got the dsm o2 housing, looks sweet only thing is that when i line it all up, all the studs match up except for one, it is like 1mm away though, so nothin a nice drill wont fix...here's the pics
nice find
there are some pics of the o2 housing attached to the turbo, all the gaskes and studs are on aswell, also attached the flange for the dp
what is the purpose of a oil ristrictor on the oil feed line, i have been looking at some lines, and alot of them say they have a built in oil restrictor, i know it restricts the flow, but by how much, cuz i found that the restrictor is in the flange that connects to the turbo
does that look right to you guys?i mean the inlet hole on the turbo isnt small as ****, and that thing looks like it'll just spray the oil on there and ****, i was going to go with a straight line going from the feed from the block straight to the turbo, is that bad? will thast blow the seals on the exhaust side? shoud i get that flange, it has a 1/8 ntp male, and i comes with a 37" oil feed line that has a 1/8 ntp male on one end and a 1/8ntp female on the other to connect to the flange, or should i just run the line straight to the turbo no restrictor to the turbo? the line is 3/8th, that is pretty small
Last edited by Jn2; May 20, 2008 at 04:42 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Joined: 07-08-05
Posts: 6,200
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From: Niceville, FL
Jn2, the feed port on the turbo has like 12mm threads on it IIRC. You will need an adapter that goes from 12mm pipe to -3 or -4 line that you will be using. I'm not sure how high the oil pressure from the Ecotec is, but we just had to install a restrictor on my new EVO III 16g because my Integra cranks out too much pressure for the turbo without it. The flange side of the turbo is for the drain like I stated before and you want at least a -10 line coming out of that without any restrictions!
alright thanks man...i will be using a -4 feed line, the fittingi am getting from hahn, it has a 1/8 male on one side to go i nto the block, and a 1/8 male on the other to go to to my female fittig on my feed line, the other end of the line has a 1/8 male to go into the fitting i have that converts 1/8 to the thread size of the turbo inlet...also i just bought a stock j pipe from a guy on dsmforums.com, should be here friday
You should do more research. It's cool that you started this about a month ago and sound like you'll have it "running" by july, but don't cut short the research time. I started on my project feb 2007, and I didn't even buy a single part till around september. I just got it all put together and started this past week.
Thats the big piece of advice I have. If you take your time, you won't be sorry. I promise you this.
As for the oil restrictor, it depends on if you have a ball bearing turbo or journal bearing. I have a ball bearing, and therefore I need an oil restrictor. If you get too much oil it'll not turn out good. Journal bearings however like the extra oil flow. So find that out to see if you want a restrictor or not.
Take your time, PM me if you have any questions. I'm not extrememly knowledgable about this stuff, but I'd hate to see you blow something up because of stupid mistakes.
Thats the big piece of advice I have. If you take your time, you won't be sorry. I promise you this.
As for the oil restrictor, it depends on if you have a ball bearing turbo or journal bearing. I have a ball bearing, and therefore I need an oil restrictor. If you get too much oil it'll not turn out good. Journal bearings however like the extra oil flow. So find that out to see if you want a restrictor or not.
Take your time, PM me if you have any questions. I'm not extrememly knowledgable about this stuff, but I'd hate to see you blow something up because of stupid mistakes.
mine is journal bearing, i am actually using the DSM forums to get all my turbo info, no one can give me better info on the turbo than those who run the thing all day long, i am using the big 16g, so they have been a great help
also i tested the wastegate today, i used pretty dam big compressor...i really dont know how much psi it was set to but i can tell you it was 25+ b/c i shot it at the boost gauge i have and it read 25+, now i connect the wastegate line to the fitting of the compressor line, and shot it inside, the flapper opened, it closed, i played with it, u know, open close open close, meaning it works, now what i am asking is, how much is it sappose to open, i mean is it sappose to go the toal 90* from sitting to fully open, b/c mine only went what i would call 45*, is this right?
also i tested the wastegate today, i used pretty dam big compressor...i really dont know how much psi it was set to but i can tell you it was 25+ b/c i shot it at the boost gauge i have and it read 25+, now i connect the wastegate line to the fitting of the compressor line, and shot it inside, the flapper opened, it closed, i played with it, u know, open close open close, meaning it works, now what i am asking is, how much is it sappose to open, i mean is it sappose to go the toal 90* from sitting to fully open, b/c mine only went what i would call 45*, is this right?
Last edited by Jn2; May 21, 2008 at 03:35 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Senior Member
Joined: 07-08-05
Posts: 6,200
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From: Niceville, FL
mine is journal bearing, i am actually using the DSM forums to get all my turbo info, no one can give me better info on the turbo than those who run the thing all day long, i am using the big 16g, so they have been a great help
also i tested the wastegate today, i used pretty dam big compressor...i really dont know how much psi it was set to but i can tell you it was 25+ b/c i shot it at the boost gauge i have and it read 25+, now i connect the wastegate line to the fitting of the compressor line, and shot it inside, the flapper opened, it closed, i played with it, u know, open close open close, meaning it works, now what i am asking is, how much is it sappose to open, i mean is it sappose to go the toal 90* from sitting to fully open, b/c mine only went what i would call 45*, is this right?
also i tested the wastegate today, i used pretty dam big compressor...i really dont know how much psi it was set to but i can tell you it was 25+ b/c i shot it at the boost gauge i have and it read 25+, now i connect the wastegate line to the fitting of the compressor line, and shot it inside, the flapper opened, it closed, i played with it, u know, open close open close, meaning it works, now what i am asking is, how much is it sappose to open, i mean is it sappose to go the toal 90* from sitting to fully open, b/c mine only went what i would call 45*, is this right?
Woot! 5000th post too by the way!
Last edited by 2K5SS/SC?; May 21, 2008 at 08:52 AM.
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Joined: 07-08-05
Posts: 6,200
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From: Niceville, FL
Yep, it's stock like that unfortunately. That is why most places offer and porting service that sell them. My buddy Chris said when my new EVO III came in, it was already done for me free of charge!
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Joined: 07-15-06
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From: Pocomoke City, MD
in the GM Ecotec 2.2 build guide the bottom end is good to 250crank hp safely
100% agree what i want to know is were you using the saab or the 2.4 intake manifold, because the stock 2.2 intake manifold should have blown apart before it ever even came close to 20psi overboost
Nope, trust me, i know from experience.. I put #3 rod through my block. My wastegate actuator line was pulled off and the car overboosted to about 20psi. 20psi on my TD04 is about 320hp worth of air(way out of its efficiency tho) and after 2 days of fixing the boost problem, the rod gave out at 2000rpms just cruising. The bottom end of a 2.2 is good for about 230whp and id be worried about pushing it any farther then that because of the CRAPPY pistons it has. The pistons are crap because of the really weak ringlands. I can show you a picture of the 8 i have in my garage right now. They are torn to ****. The rods are good for 300hp but i wouldnt trust them.
EDIT: If you you try to pull the tune card, i can guarantee you it had nothing to do with the tune. I was not seeing ANY knock and my AFR was in the 11.2 area at WOT, even when overboosting. So that should tell you how much power you should put on the stock engine.
EDIT: If you you try to pull the tune card, i can guarantee you it had nothing to do with the tune. I was not seeing ANY knock and my AFR was in the 11.2 area at WOT, even when overboosting. So that should tell you how much power you should put on the stock engine.
Last edited by xCobalt05x; May 21, 2008 at 12:23 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Joined: 03-07-06
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From: west virginia
in the GM Ecotec 2.2 build guide the bottom end is good to 250crank hp safely
100% agree what i want to know is were you using the saab or the 2.4 intake manifold, because the stock 2.2 intake manifold should have blown apart before it ever even came close to 20psi overboost
100% agree what i want to know is were you using the saab or the 2.4 intake manifold, because the stock 2.2 intake manifold should have blown apart before it ever even came close to 20psi overboost