its good for more than 250 crank HP also...J body guys have pushed the motor to 300whp on a stock bottom end

I don't care what anyone says, if you're blowing your motor near 200whp its tune related or user error...the motors are not that weak.

 

exactly.. i choose not to get into this..

gm had issues on 250 whp because of a 125 straight shot of nitrous... people seem to forget how they rated things ... and think that the tranny's and motors are **** because of it ...

people are forgetting that there are companies who've pushed these motors/ trannies well beyond their supposed capabilities... as well as people that have done the same

 

^yup, but to keep it safe im only looking for ~200whp, i will let 220whp be my max, also i will be buying a rotary tool this friday, so i can start porting the inside of the turbo and the hole for the flapper valve, ima port them both pretty good, will make the hole for the flapper as big as i can make it with out compramising it from sealing good when its closed

 

i know they have done it, but a general and safe consensus is about 250...its is definately possible to push it farther than its rated limits, as is with anything

 

I have a thread on it. I blew the intake manifold first. Then replaced it, noticed i was boosting 20psi by 3000rpms. That alone had weakened the motor and the day after i replaced the manifold, just cruising around, the rod gave out. The night the mani blew i was taking it to redline. It was probably running at about 300whp because it pulled like a damn banshee from 4k - 6500. The AFRs were fine too. But the rods didnt like it...

Ion, i wasnt anywhere NEAR 200whp when it blew. Trust me bro, it was pure boost that blew it. 20psi on my turbo at my altitude is over 300whp worth of air. Way too much for that turbo though.

 

DO NOT GRIND THE HOLE! Look at where the flapper hits when it's fully opened. You just need to clearance where the backside of it hits the housing. Opening the hole will be bad!

 

im not grinding the hole, im increasing it diameter, it will still be leveled out...also i got the flapper valve to open up all the way, well now at 25psi it opened to about a 70* anlge, so i dont think i will port of grind **** anymore, well maybe to the inside of the housing, so its not a 90* angle the exhaust has to take to make it to the flapper...

 

also, the wastegate is set to 1 bar=11.6psi, i think about 10psi would make it to the engine due to pressure drop after the IC, should be good enough for my needs

 

i thought 1 bar was 14.7 and .8 bar was 11.66

 

dont think so, i went online to calculate the conversion, either way i tested it with a compressor and a gauge, wastegate opened at around 11psi

 

That would make sense because my boost gauge only read 10psi when it was just on wastegate pressure. I have a stock SRT-4 intercooler on there and very short charge piping, so the 1psi drop would be about right.

 

yup, pressure drop after the IC could do that to you, especially since the srt IC is pretty big in size, i went with a smaller IC myself, 28"long 6.5" high

i think i see what u were saying now, u think i was going to grind the hole the exhaust leaves thru to get to the dp, no i meant the hole the flapper valve covers...sorry i wasnt really specific, i know not to make the other one bigger, it's already pretty dam big...the flapper valve hole is the one that could use some boring out

does it matter where i put the oil temp sensor at? i will have 2 gauges on my car, boost and oil temp, water temp is told to me via the stock luster, and the engine bay temp is told to me via the ambient air temp mod i did, so i only need to know the temp of the oil, could i just get it from an of the gallery plugs? i mean i know for the pressure gauge it has to be a specific one, but i dont think that counts for the temp right? someone wanna chime in a help me out?

 

i would think and oil pressure gauge would be more vital then an actual oil temperature gauge

i checked it out and .8 bar is definitely 1.6 and 1 bar 14.5

 

Ok, what I mean is would not bore out the hole you want to unless you plan on installing a larger 34mm flapper valve. All you need to do is clearance behind where the flapper opens up to so that it will open properly. Porting the turbine inlet on the housing and the turbo oulet will help spool times and reduce restrictions, so that is fine. Screwing around with the flapper hole is asking for trouble unless you are just clearancing like I stated.

 

oh ok, well i have clearance, did some work on it, the flapper opens amost all the way, only thing that stops it now is the o2 housing, it hits it so it dont open a tad bit, but hell it opens almost all the way so i tink im good in that region

 

well i ported the turbo, i havent finished, i spent a good 3hrs on it, not done, i got a decent amount off, but i know this is a thing to do when its still off the car...its looking nice too, no pics as its the middle of then ight and im not going to my garage to do ****, lol

 

did more porting on the turbo, im getting there, but im taking my time, that **** takes forever...well my j pipe came in today

now i only need the turbo mani and i will be able to fiinish routing all the piping and be able to make the dp for it

 

nice thats all the Ls can put out 200whp boosted??

 

eeww that looks awfully restrictive

almost there though man why don't you just get a zzp turbo namifold lol

 

That's the stock oulet. It's not really restrictive per say when you see it all bolted up. There really isn't any other options, and it's not that long.

Also, the ZZP mani doesn't come available with the TDo5 flange on it.

 

gotcha.. my bad lol

 

yeah the turbo forces me to use that sorta pipe, there is a flange on the f'int urbo so i cant go with the traditional coupler than a pipe thing, i need to put that pipe and than put a coupler and **** on it, now i put the pipe on the turbo and sorta imagined the fit, i think i will have to cut the pipe in half and than make it so it turns more upwards, cuz the way it sits now, it might hit the turbo mani's primaries...so ima see if i can cut it and weld it to the shape i need it to be, and if i cant, oh well ill be short 25 bucks, and ill do what i originallt planned...just weld a 2"->2.5 exhaust pipe on the compressor exit and just follow it with IC piping, but thats a but messier, and i dont wanna weld on my turbo , but once more i need the manifold to see if it'll work and to see if i have to cut or not, so im once more bound by that dam mani, lol, also the turbo mani on ebay that seel for like 200, he has the td05 flange available, i have been emailing him/her(<-replys with a email with a chick name) and he/she said the tdo5 is a option, i emailed back and asked to see if he could put a 45* angle on it, sent a link to the pic in my gallery whcih i took from vulcan turbo so he can see what i ment, im still waiting for the reply, if he can, than i can tell him that way works better for the balts, so he wins i win

here's some pic of how far i have gotten as far as porting the dam thing, its a good 4hrs worth of porthing...not done yet, a bit more, also some pics of the j pipe on the turbo, WGA line connect and ready to go, will be ordering a boost controller in a bit, so that will bo in the middle of the line...if you look closely in the plaque where it had the turbo info on it, i shaved it all down with the dremel and used a biot made for engraving, and tried my best to get Jn2 on it, when i sign JN2, its all connected, the j and the n are connect by the vertical line on the n and the vertical on the j, than over the n one the right corner i put the 2, kinda like JN squared ya know...well yeah, i need to go backand make the engravement deaper so you can see it better, also polished did some gringind and polishing on turbo...

 

Please tell me you are planning on smoothing that out still

 

if you read it, i say im not done, i only started...i still have some more to go, and yes i will polish it down, im not done with it, also the compressor end will be painted in black as well as the j pipe, i got soem special paint for the compressor

 

Looking good so far. Keep up the good work. Your turbo should spool a bit faster now, and it looks bling bling too!

When I installed my turbo on my Integra initially, I had to cut/rotate/reweld the j-pipe to get it to go in the direction I needed as well, so it can be done.