Contemplating a S/C or T/C
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Joined: 07-22-08
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From: Parrish, FL
ugh, got to pay off my down payment first. When thats done I might do a CIT and a stage 2 depending on the cost. I can see a stage 2 costing more then what it might be worth though...625+installation = well over 1k im sure.
Stage 2 turns a stock SS into a whole different car thou. It's well worth the money , even if it's the only mod you do.
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From: Parrish, FL
The tune is included with the kit , you just have to go to the dealer and have them flash it into the car . They do charge you , not sure how much cause my dealer did it free. Took them 20 minutes. Stage 2 from crate engine depot is 565. You can save money by doing the install yourself , i did my own . Removing the stock pulley is a bitch but the injectors were simple , took me 30 minutes and i'd never changed an injector in a cobalt before . So to save on labor install the injectors and have them do the pulley hehe. Complete installs usually average 200 bucks or so from what people have posted here.
Another way i saved cash was just doing stage one for 385 and then look for a used stage 2 pulley belt and hub (got mine for 50) . The tunes for stg1 and 2 are the same so that doesn't matter.
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From: Parrish, FL
The extra HP and 7000 rpm redline make a big difference when shifting 2nd and 3rd. I remember when mine was new 2nd would almost feel like it bogged because the ratio differences between 1st and 2nd are so drastic. It's the best money ive spent on this car ...period.
The tune is included with the kit , you just have to go to the dealer and have them flash it into the car . They do charge you , not sure how much cause my dealer did it free. Took them 20 minutes. Stage 2 from crate engine depot is 565. You can save money by doing the install yourself , i did my own . Removing the stock pulley is a bitch but the injectors were simple , took me 30 minutes and i'd never changed an injector in a cobalt before . So to save on labor install the injectors and have them do the pulley hehe. Complete installs usually average 200 bucks or so from what people have posted here.
Another way i saved cash was just doing stage one for 385 and then look for a used stage 2 pulley belt and hub (got mine for 50) . The tunes for stg1 and 2 are the same so that doesn't matter.
The tune is included with the kit , you just have to go to the dealer and have them flash it into the car . They do charge you , not sure how much cause my dealer did it free. Took them 20 minutes. Stage 2 from crate engine depot is 565. You can save money by doing the install yourself , i did my own . Removing the stock pulley is a bitch but the injectors were simple , took me 30 minutes and i'd never changed an injector in a cobalt before . So to save on labor install the injectors and have them do the pulley hehe. Complete installs usually average 200 bucks or so from what people have posted here.
Another way i saved cash was just doing stage one for 385 and then look for a used stage 2 pulley belt and hub (got mine for 50) . The tunes for stg1 and 2 are the same so that doesn't matter.
Can I go from stock to stage 2 or must I get a stage 1 also...
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From: southeast florida
I have a LS right now thats all stock except the muffler. I only own 5000 and thats about what its worth. Has little over 60k miles. Since I see some SS's going for around 13-16k, I figure the jump isn't bad if the miles are low. My payments now are 300. Anyway I wasn't sure which was the best bet for me. No dealership around me has either of them, but when they come in stock im going to try a look.
I dont know too much about cars, but trying to figure some stuff out so dont flame me for being noobish. I know the T/C is quicker, however I do like the whine the S/C makes. Anyone give me some info about both, and how it compares to my crap LS?
I dont know too much about cars, but trying to figure some stuff out so dont flame me for being noobish. I know the T/C is quicker, however I do like the whine the S/C makes. Anyone give me some info about both, and how it compares to my crap LS?
edit : just saw that u bought one
I have intake/header/dp/stg 2 pulley with no tune. It runs like a beast for what I have. see sig for IDC log
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From: Parrish, FL
Well, I only stalled it a few times. Take off is jerky 50% of the time and im slow at it still after 2 hours. So going to take brothers car to work for a few days before I join traffic with this. Anyway here are some pics.
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From: Parrish, FL
nice buy man! looks awesome! i remeber the feeling i got when i got my TC off the show room floor man! stage 2 that thing you will be neck and neck with the TC! well stock anyway. i love the stage kits! i cant wait for the TC to get one.
how much do those cost to buy seperate?
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From: Parrish, FL
Thread Starter
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From: Parrish, FL
I do have a few questions about shifting though that im unsure of.
If im at a red light should I keep the clutch pressed in all the way while on the break? This doesn't hurt the vehicle like slipping the clutch does it?
When shifting say from 3rd to 4th, this should be done as quickly as possible right? not as slow as you would when launching? Should I fully release the cluch quickly then give it gas quick, or should I start giving gas just before I release it?
Last one is driving up large hills. Not starting on one but say, going up a very large one. I go over the skyway bridge everyday and its about 45% angle for a good 1/4 mile. If I got the speed should I just drive it like a auto?
Just want to make sure I get everything correct. Dont wany to spend 5k replacing clutches every 20k miles lol.
If you aren't starting from a stop giving any gas before letting the clutch out is slipping the clutch , that is something you don't want to do or get in the habit of doing. Shifting from 3rd to 4th doesn't need to be done as fast as possible , just quick enough not to lose alot of speed .
No, it doesn't hurt anything, except maybe unnecessary wear on the throwout bearing and your left leg. If it's a short red light I suppose you can do this, but why not just throw it neutral and give your leg a break? Steal a glance at the light of the crossing street and when it turns yellow you can clutch in, shift into first, and get ready to roll once the light turns green.
