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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 01:48 PM
  #1201  
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For installing the TCABS what size arbors are needed to press out the old ones and press in the new ones? Want to make sure I have all the right tools on hand.

Thank you
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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 01:55 PM
  #1202  
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The closer to size the better. John and I both use tools that I custom made.
Removal can be rather sloppy, they come out easy. For install you MAY be able to find a large impact socket that can fit in the groove of the tcab without damagin the boot, but be VERY careful. Everything needs to be 100% lined up square. And freezing the cabs overnight makes a BIG difference.


On a side note, I cannot wait to get my UCR's installed. Too bad I have to fix the Trans and turbo first
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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 02:33 PM
  #1203  
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The under car rails aren't too hard, especially since I'm sure you have better equipment and knowledge than me and my friend that took us probably 6 hours.
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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 05:58 PM
  #1204  
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Originally Posted by andrewcarr1993
The under car rails aren't too hard, especially since I'm sure you have better equipment and knowledge than me and my friend that took us probably 6 hours.
Are the holes as hard to drill as those in the rear crash bar for the tow hook? That thing was a ****, even with an 18V drill with a spare battery and titanium drill bits!
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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 06:00 PM
  #1205  
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Originally Posted by BA89
For installing the TCABS what size arbors are needed to press out the old ones and press in the new ones? Want to make sure I have all the right tools on hand.

Thank you
Bring your control arms to NAPA. They replaced my TCABS for 40 bucks.
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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 06:07 PM
  #1206  
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I was using an industrial drill and it was a PITA but not the worst, just make sure you're using sharp bits and drill the holes in the right spot.
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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 06:10 PM
  #1207  
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Originally Posted by colodude18
Are the holes as hard to drill as those in the rear crash bar for the tow hook? That thing was a ****, even with an 18V drill with a spare battery and titanium drill bits!
What speed where you using? Metal likes it nice and slow
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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 06:22 PM
  #1208  
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Lol i drilled through my crash bar and the **** started glowing red hot
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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 07:09 PM
  #1209  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by colodude18
Are the holes as hard to drill as those in the rear crash bar for the tow hook? That thing was a ****, even with an 18V drill with a spare battery and titanium drill bits!
read the instructions lol. UNIBIT. STEPDRILL. XMAS TREE DRILL BIT. whatever its called, buy the good ones ( mine cost 65.00 each) they work and last forever. Drill bits are difficult I use black/gold for a starter hole. like andrew carr says, makes it ez

eCaulk says slow. hes right. and cutting fluid as well .

Amazon Amazon

irwin make some good things i hope
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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 07:23 PM
  #1210  
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Originally Posted by Powell Race Parts
read the instructions lol. UNIBIT. STEPDRILL. XMAS TREE DRILL BIT. whatever its called, buy the good ones ( mine cost 65.00 each) they work and last forever. Drill bits are difficult I use black/gold for a starter hole. like andrew carr says, makes it ez

eCaulk says slow. hes right. and cutting fluid as well .

Amazon Amazon

irwin make some good things i hope
I've had good luck with Irwin bits, the step bit def makes a huge difference.

Although if you don't have one slow and light pressure with cutting oil will work, takes a lot longer but still works
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 12:21 AM
  #1211  
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From: Greater Denver Area, Colorado
Originally Posted by Powell Race Parts
read the instructions lol. UNIBIT. STEPDRILL. XMAS TREE DRILL BIT. whatever its called, buy the good ones ( mine cost 65.00 each) they work and last forever. Drill bits are difficult I use black/gold for a starter hole. like andrew carr says, makes it ez

eCaulk says slow. hes right. and cutting fluid as well .

Amazon.com: Irwin 10233 Unibit3 1/4-Inch to 3/4-Inch 3/8-Inch Shank Step Drill Bit: Home Improvement

irwin make some good things i hope
I did read the instructions John, and I did buy a Unibit! But all Home Depot had was Milwaukee brand. Good news it was made in USA. Bad news it lasted 3/4 of a hole. Maybe my drill speed was too high. Maybe the bit was crap. I Switched to titanium bits, using used engine oil (lol) as lubricant.

Now i know. When I get the UCR I'll get a proper unibit
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 12:25 AM
  #1212  
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I happened to get an Irwin at a local hardware store chain and it worked great for me.
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 12:47 AM
  #1213  
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i got a surprise from mr. powell today

in the undercover package from CED

i was like...i didnt order anything
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 12:51 AM
  #1214  
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Steering wheel adapter?
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 02:42 AM
  #1215  
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tranny mount insert hehe
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 09:18 AM
  #1216  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by colodude18
I did read the instructions John, and I did buy a Unibit! But all Home Depot had was Milwaukee brand. Good news it was made in USA. Bad news it lasted 3/4 of a hole. Maybe my drill speed was too high. Maybe the bit was crap. I Switched to titanium bits, using used engine oil (lol) as lubricant.

Now i know. When I get the UCR I'll get a proper unibit
ya I always thought that Milwaukee was a stand up brand. Not any more . Garrett or Starrett or something was what I buy. 65 bux. but i do a lot of them. The only thing I need to master is to avoid the shower of sparks and metal shavings (hot) that fall and burn my arm lol
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 09:19 AM
  #1217  
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John do you have a separate thread somewhere about the license plate bracket? I'm not finding one... I was gonna throw some pics up.
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 09:20 AM
  #1218  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by Whitnith
John do you have a separate thread somewhere about the license plate bracket? I'm not finding one... I was gonna throw some pics up.
I dont think so. Its buried in here so perhaps you would start one? thanks very much
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 09:23 AM
  #1219  
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Originally Posted by Powell Race Parts
I dont think so. Its buried in here so perhaps you would start one? thanks very much
Will do. I'll get some more pics then and start one.
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 09:47 AM
  #1220  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by armcclure
The closer to size the better. John and I both use tools that I custom made.
Removal can be rather sloppy, they come out easy. For install you MAY be able to find a large impact socket that can fit in the groove of the tcab without damagin the boot, but be VERY careful. Everything needs to be 100% lined up square. And freezing the cabs overnight makes a BIG difference.


On a side note, I cannot wait to get my UCR's installed. Too bad I have to fix the Trans and turbo first
the how to has the dimensions in it iirc

Last edited by Powell Race Parts; Jun 26, 2014 at 09:59 AM.
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 09:52 AM
  #1221  
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Originally Posted by Powell Race Parts
ya I always thought that Milwaukee was a stand up brand. Not any more . Garrett or Starrett or something was what I buy. 65 bux. but i do a lot of them. The only thing I need to master is to avoid the shower of sparks and metal shavings (hot) that fall and burn my arm lol
They make hot-not sleeves (google it) might be a bit extreme and some simple leather welding gauntlets could take care of that.

I wonder if the quality of stuff solid at big box stores (like Lowes and Home Depot) is different than other locations. I know that much is true for the cabinets and kitchen/bath products.
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 10:00 AM
  #1222  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by ECaulk
They make hot-not sleeves (google it) might be a bit extreme and some simple leather welding gauntlets could take care of that.

I wonder if the quality of stuff solid at big box stores (like Lowes and Home Depot) is different than other locations. I know that much is true for the cabinets and kitchen/bath products.
ya I know . lol Ii got nomex sleeves from racing . its just i never put them on until its too late lol
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 11:39 AM
  #1223  
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Originally Posted by Powell Race Parts
ya I always thought that Milwaukee was a stand up brand. Not any more . Garrett or Starrett or something was what I buy. 65 bux. but i do a lot of them. The only thing I need to master is to avoid the shower of sparks and metal shavings (hot) that fall and burn my arm lol
Sterret
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Old Aug 8, 2014 | 09:59 PM
  #1224  
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So I installed Powell's latest rotated front motor mounts along with a stock LNF rear mount:

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Initial impressions are that I can feel the engine a lot more at idle and up to ~1500rpm, not much more between 1500rpm-3000rpm, and about the same as the tired, stock mounts after 3krpm.

No noticeable increase in cabin noise, but I only had it out for a short drive so far.
Hopefully the mounts soften up in a couple weeks.
No more rocking back and forth for the motor and tranny though!
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Old Sep 2, 2014 | 12:48 PM
  #1225  
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From: Port Perry
^^^great work. Redlines rock
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