buy new control arm with powell bushing already installed.

Tom at CED has them. Saved me time and hassle

then sell old control arms

 

Just rent a ball joint press kit from advance auto or your local auto parts store and press the bushings yourself. Super easy to do.

 

so i know that john has addressed the gas pedal in our cars but i was wondering if he has tackled the brake or the clutch as well, would be kinda cool if we could get a full racing pedal set fit in our cars but i am sure it would take a lot of work. i like the feel of the AP racing pedals a ton. maybe then we could have the pedal ratio to delete the brake booster and maybe even run dual masters with a balance bar assembly!

 

Finally got my PRS brake ducts installed. Looking forward to testing them out at the track soon!

 

Calo good question there are some excellent bolt on pedal covers in alloy available. I will research the ones we used. not worth reinventing the wheel on that one. I could use some as well never seem to have time to get to it.

Good work Adrian

BTW when the incoming nurses admire your taillights at home here, its a true test of quality. lol

 

Thanks!

Yeah that's really something

 

So is there a link to order a set of Koni yellows with YYZ springs? Possibly pre-assembled like the FE5 / YYZ combo?

If not, what are my options?

 

Probably get the YYZ's from CED and the Konis from Tirerack. I don't think Powell pre-assembles them and even if he does shipping from Canada will be more expensive.

Powell YYZ V5 Spring Pkg YYZ V.5
http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/s...autoModClar=SS

 

John - I hope this isn't off topic but the Oil / air separator you currently have, will that work with the 2.0 liter LTG turbo engine, or are there modifications one would have to make in order to mount it correctly? This is a long thread so I'm not sure if you have already mentioned or are working on something.

 

Powell sells the strut for you only to install the koni, it comes powder coated yellow I don't remember how much it was for them but I didn't have to do any cutting or anything like that

 

The strut modification isn't very hard. You only need a 1/8" drill bit, 9/16" drill bit, hack saw, bench vise, and an 8mm (I think) allen key socket for your torque wrench. Drilling the hole to drain the oil is a piece of cake. Cutting off the top of the strut housing is equally as easy (don't waste your time measuring like the instructions say, just cut about a quarter inch off of the top.) The hardest part was finding a 9/16" hss drill bit for the bottom mounting hole. They didn't have anything that large at our Home Depot, or hardware store. I had to go to a tool store to get one. Just take your time to make sure the hole stays centered. You pound the Koni into the strut housing using a block of wood and a hammer. Then install the washer and button-head cap-screw using your torque wrench and allen key socket. Adjust the damping/rebound on the strut and voilŕ, you're ready to proceed with installation as usual.

 

He's right once I saw it for sure it doesn't take much to do I would of done it myself but was intimidated looking at the instructions

 

Pounding the insert in is not a good idea; you risk not seating it with it centered properly. Use a longer bolt to draw it in. Cutting the top is very important a tube cutter works best. Leave it as long as you can. When I supply housings prepped and powdercoated I supply addtional hardware and spacers to draw the insert in, using the technique I just described. Koni instructions for cutting the housing are WRONG. Even Koni authorized dealers screw this up.

 

Email me and I can answer. It all depends on the application and if the head threaded holes exist and are not used to hang a power steering pump or some such thing. ALSO the PCV has changed in newer models as GM powertrain react and try to reduce valve stem coking, a DI problem. This means that the fittings used in the rocker cover and turbo may be different in size. The orifices internally remain much the same as the PCV system is designed to retain vacuum even under boost. With Allan Ray McClures help we have developed some adaptor fittings that actually enhance the scavenge vacuum effect . These are for use in aftermarket inlet tubes where the turbo does not have a dedicated port for scavenge blow by gas return like the K04.

 

How is the latest rendition of the separator coming along?

 

What is the price on the said prepped and powder coated housings and how do I order them? I would like to keep the stock FE5 intact for now in case I need to remove the Koni for service or screw up the install.

Thanks ahead.

 

I concur. I would buy a ready made piece or fully assembled with Koni.

 

I payed 75 for each prepped strut housing plus shipping didn't remember paying that much lol. But with all the hardware and stuff it made the installation of the konis super simple

 

John, is that still current price? I'm deciding between that and pre-assembled YYZ/FE5 fronts and YYZ/Koni rears.

 

Email Gloria she will let you know

 

2008 Cobalt sport, I cannot find the anti-theft module in the car, can anyone help me with where I may look????

 

I think it's in the parcel shelf behind your rear seats under the rear window. Gotta lay the seats down to get at it. Couple of screws and push pins to take out to get under there.

 

Wrong thread.

 

John sells Corvette parts

 

Received Powell's latest iteration of the pcv oil separator with intake manifold modification.
Really stunning piece, Powell also took care of the powder coating. Manifold was previously ported by Mongo and will be paired with an LE5 throttle body and a 60# 5th injector.
Can't wait to get this and a whole bunch of other goodies installed in the next month or 2