For discussion of all things Powell!!
The LSJ SC version will plug manifold but draw out of the rocker cover. That will take a little finesse.
At the moment I am working on understanding if there is potential for condensation build up as the blow by gasses cool off too much. I am not sure. Has not happened on the kappa test car over two years. Ryan has not said anything.
Only one LNF is a potential concern. I can't test lsj stuff on my car as it has not any headlights or tail lights currently. Lol
At the moment I am working on understanding if there is potential for condensation build up as the blow by gasses cool off too much. I am not sure. Has not happened on the kappa test car over two years. Ryan has not said anything.
Only one LNF is a potential concern. I can't test lsj stuff on my car as it has not any headlights or tail lights currently. Lol
loljust ordered a pcv system so i assume i could buy the parts after to make any changes that happen
do you happen to do head porting?
Snagged my 2nd set of yyz's. had them on my cobalt and loved them over everything else. now i bought a set for my redline that was also fitted with all my old powell goodies from my ion sedan
I finally got my Powell "medium" rear sway bar on my IRL and I love it - the car handles so much flatter and the steering response is improved as well. The biggest difference i've noticed is that I can get the gas a lot harder through a turn without the inside front tire spinning. Worth every penny.
v3 PCV system
Hello Mr. Powell, in one of those pics from page 70 when you talk about your v3 PCV system, I see a stock manifold that's tapped with a line right by the PCV valve. How did you block the rest of the manifold PCV port that would then dump to the beginning of the runners? I'm all about that quiksteel... my SC silencer plugs lasted 40k miles and many many heat cycles
But how did you do it? Weld a plate, fill it, etc?
Either way, great idea. I'd take a guess that the modded intake line and the rear valve cover vent line come to a T, then go in to your separator inlet, then to the pre-turbo inlet? Then BOTH PCV vents are filtered by your separator, bye bye valve coking
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I've wanted your separator for quite some time but I must fix my severe blowby issue first, stupid cracked #1 piston
But how did you do it? Weld a plate, fill it, etc?Either way, great idea. I'd take a guess that the modded intake line and the rear valve cover vent line come to a T, then go in to your separator inlet, then to the pre-turbo inlet? Then BOTH PCV vents are filtered by your separator, bye bye valve coking
I've wanted your separator for quite some time but I must fix my severe blowby issue first, stupid cracked #1 piston
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Joined: 01-12-10
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From: Greater Denver Area, Colorado
So I just ordered the Powell trans mount and cabs. My gm dealer is installing them. Will they do it right? I see you should loosen the top engine mount and drive it with the bolts lose. Or something like that. Is that something that they will actually do? I put on my OTTP mounts a couple years ago. I don't remember losening the top engine mount. Maybe that contributed to them tearing. I don't have access to a lift or jack stands anymore though. And the dealers already putting new tires and brakes on so I figured I'd just have them do it all. Also I currently have the stage 2 OTTP mounts. Will this be a downgrade for me to go to the stage 1? Will I have more wheel hop now? I would think there would be less vibrations. It was cheaper for me to just buy this mount then to buy the new bushings and get them pressed in.
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,079
Likes: 197
From: NEPA
So I just ordered the Powell trans mount and cabs. My gm dealer is installing them. Will they do it right? I see you should loosen the top engine mount and drive it with the bolts lose. Or something like that. Is that something that they will actually do? I put on my OTTP mounts a couple years ago. I don't remember losening the top engine mount. Maybe that contributed to them tearing. I don't have access to a lift or jack stands anymore though. And the dealers already putting new tires and brakes on so I figured I'd just have them do it all. Also I currently have the stage 2 OTTP mounts. Will this be a downgrade for me to go to the stage 1? Will I have more wheel hop now? I would think there would be less vibrations. It was cheaper for me to just buy this mount then to buy the new bushings and get them pressed in.
The dealership will prob not loosen & tighten the three (3) top engine mount bolts, so when you get it back, make sure you do that.
Can I loosen everything without jack stands? Would I just need to loosen and retighten the top engine mount or would the 2 trans mounts and the engine mount all need to be loosened and retightened?
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,079
Likes: 197
From: NEPA
Yes, you should loosen them with the car level and on the ground. Only need to loosen them a turn or so. Re tighten back to spec.
I wonder how the dealer would handle it. I know the driving lightly part in in the Gm service manual because when I put in my OTTP mounts I had a mechanic friend help that had a true GM service manual. Not sure about the top engine mount though. I don't think that was in there at all. And I doubt they will actually drive it before tightening.
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,079
Likes: 197
From: NEPA
When you loosen them, it allows everything to line up.
Hopefully they follow the mount install procedure.
It's not just remove old mounts and install new ones, but knowing how techs handle stuff, that's prob what they will do to save time.
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From: Greater Denver Area, Colorado
You don't need to drive it... just loosen the bolts, and re tighten them with the car parked.
When you loosen them, it allows everything to line up.
Hopefully they follow the mount install procedure.
It's not just remove old mounts and install new ones, but knowing how techs handle stuff, that's prob what they will do to save time.
When you loosen them, it allows everything to line up.
Hopefully they follow the mount install procedure.
It's not just remove old mounts and install new ones, but knowing how techs handle stuff, that's prob what they will do to save time.
Do the smart thing and invest in a pair of jack stands and a simple floor jack. Like others have said, loosen all three mounts and then re-tighten them making sure you use Powell's torque specs.
Having a floor jack will also allow you to rotate your own wheels. I have yet to find a place that doesn't scratch them up in the process...
I installed a set of Powell stage 1 mounts yesterday and I don't know why I waited so long to get them. I followed the instructions provided and only took about an hour or so. I noticed an increase in traction and the whole car just felt more solid without the motor shifting around. The best part? No additional vibrations! Thank you Mr. Powell for creating such a high quality product, will definitely be ordering more in the future.
I'll be looking into the Powell trans mounts.



