For discussion of all things Powell!!
05-02-2013, 07:10 AM
#202
Senior Member
[QUOTE=Powell Race Parts;7024021]
then i think its final, ill be purchasing some springs from you for sure. 
05-03-2013, 01:49 PM
#204
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under car rails
John,
Could you please post up the install for the under car rails?
I am curious on the time to install, required tools, and performance metrics of a car with the rails vs one without
Could you please post up the install for the under car rails?
I am curious on the time to install, required tools, and performance metrics of a car with the rails vs one without
05-03-2013, 02:32 PM
#206
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anyone know the difference in wheel gap with the YYZ v.2s. I saw the height from the ground but that doesn't really help me because idk what stock is or what other companies are... thanks!
05-04-2013, 12:15 AM
#209
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Maybe my computer is not loading some images or something but I did not see pics of taking the seat out, lifting the carpet / wires, marked locations where to drill, or performance metrics that prove the rails are worth the expense (putting the jacking point aside)
05-04-2013, 12:20 AM
#210
taking the seat out and lifting the carpet is doing just that lol. it's self explanitory. 15mm for the front seats. pop the rears out by hand. marking the holes is mocking up the rail position underneath the car(there's only one way they'll go) and then drilling.
the rails reduce/eliminate body roll
the rails reduce/eliminate body roll
05-04-2013, 07:08 AM
#219
#2. The sunroof creak test says they help with torsional stiffness.
#3. all cars once built, gradually lose torsional and bending stiffness. It doesnt go down to zero
#4. take a box of ...say, matches; try to gently bend or twist it. Now cut one end off the box; repeat. Now cut the other end off. Thats what happens to a car. They make the structure, then have to put holes in it for doors hood trunk etc.
#5. If you install our UCR and the harness bar, and dont follow instructions and install spacers as detailed, your doors wont open and close right. The parts actually will pull the structure together.
#6. Probably the weakest part of your car from an impact point of view is the side of the car. So reinforcing along the pinch weld " subframe connector" and putting in a brace between the B pillars, will help reinforce the structure.
finally our customers are happy. Even if it did nothing the UCR jacking point is worth the price of admission.
Kinda like tow hooks. And the detractors say they dont work, they will break etc. Its one of our best selling items.
sorry I dont have data to support UCR etc. One day when I win the powerball I will do the testing. Like I did windtunnel testing a couple/three years ago. Cost 25,000 dollars to go down to a NC windtunnel and use it. Two days.The actual tunnel use is $5,000 per day, its booked up two years in advance. The rest of the money is expenses to take the car there, engineering support, hotel/motel/food /gas etc.
good luck.
Last edited by Powell Race Parts; 05-04-2013 at 07:18 AM.
05-04-2013, 10:17 AM
#220
the under car rails work.... buy them take them out on a track with no other mods done at all and watch it happen. under hard cornering some cars can actually get the doors to rub the quarter panels. any time you can put a lateral or longitudinal support brace in it will help. and what john speaks is the truth about pulling the pillars out of alignment. ive had a few harness bar cars come into the shop with door issues and basically had to redo the installation to make it right.
im going to design a brace for my car thats different then johns eventually. will be using johns on the outside and welding in more tubing to make additional bracing so i can run more aero parts under the car.
as far as vendors posting a how to.... its not neccisary nor do i think he should for this item. its a pretty straight forward deal. hold it up under the car, mark your holes, lift the carpet and drill...... after its drilled mark the panels where it needs to be bonded(this is optional i ran mine without bonding agent and NEVER had an issue). take the bar back down grind the surface, coat with bonding agent, reinstall and your done. he cannot post where to put your wholes because if you hold it slightly off then someone will say its his fault for wrong measurements. every cars different. like i tell everyone if its something that you question yourself installing take it to a shop and have them do it.
im going to design a brace for my car thats different then johns eventually. will be using johns on the outside and welding in more tubing to make additional bracing so i can run more aero parts under the car.
as far as vendors posting a how to.... its not neccisary nor do i think he should for this item. its a pretty straight forward deal. hold it up under the car, mark your holes, lift the carpet and drill...... after its drilled mark the panels where it needs to be bonded(this is optional i ran mine without bonding agent and NEVER had an issue). take the bar back down grind the surface, coat with bonding agent, reinstall and your done. he cannot post where to put your wholes because if you hold it slightly off then someone will say its his fault for wrong measurements. every cars different. like i tell everyone if its something that you question yourself installing take it to a shop and have them do it.
05-04-2013, 01:27 PM
#224
Your wiring is inside the car isn't it? As long as you can drill some holes through the floor without drilling through a wire you should be fine. Pull the wire out of the way for a sec, drill. profit?
or...
Is your wiring run through conduit under the car, attached to the pinch weld?
or...
Is your wiring run through conduit under the car, attached to the pinch weld?