Okay so my manifold and seal and hose finally all came in(2nd manifold) so I installed at the end of work toady and took pictures for y'all. Enjoy!(sorry about picture quality)

The parts youll need, the 2.4 manifold, crankcase passage seal(seal with metal insert), throttle body gasket, and a power brake booster hose solution. I chose to purchase the 2.4's hose, all you need to do is lengthen yours. Make sure your intake has the insert thats highlighted here, it supports the TB gasket. My first intake didnt have it, so I had to order another intake(this piece isnt avail seperately

Required tools: torque wrench capable of 10nM or 89inlbs. (ignore the Loctite, it isnt needed) a 10mm socket. A universal one like this is best, but a plain socket and a u-joint will work, and you can make do without the universal at all if need be. an extension for your socket(approx 6" is easiest to use). ratchet for your extension/socket(note I am using 1/4" drive, thats all thats needed) a medium-small straight blade screwdriver, a 10mm wrench, ratcheting box as pictured is prefered, as it makes job easier, but you can use a plain wrench too. A tool to remove wire retainers from intake(your screwdriver or a pair of pliers would work too Not shown is a way to enlarge MAP hole, a file, 1/2" sanding barrel, or 15/32" drill bit is what is needed.(you need to enlarge hole to slightly larger than .465" so your MAP sensor fits.

This is what the stock manifold/throttle body bolt positions look like. I have the GMPP induction kit.

The first step is to disconnect your battery, just like any time you need to disconnect harnesses on the car or work near starter.
Then with your stright screwdriver remove your intake tube.(note, I chose not to remove the entire assembly, just the throttlbody coupler, this is simply technician habit, its actually easier to remove entire induction setup to get room to work/see) Then with your retainer remover of choice, go about removing the push-in retainers that hold the harness to the manifold. They run down the passenger side of the manifold and down to the center. When you have them all disconnect youll be able to lift the harness out of the way and it will look something like this:

Now you can remove the lock(grey part) from the TB connector by sliding it away from TB and disconnect the TB harness from the TB. Use your 10mm socket to remove the 4 bolts holding TB on. (you can discard the 2.2 TB gasket)Place it aside where it wont get dirty or nicked. Now youve got as clear access to the oil dipstick/AC hose brakcet as youre gonna get, using your 10mm wrench, or ratchet remove the one bolt highlighted here.(its about an inch long)

Now is where the universal socket comes in handy. Remove the MAP sensor connector from sensor by pushing down on tab, then with yoursocket on the extension remove the bolt that secures the sensor by accessing it from in between the fuel rail and valve cover. A magnet, needle pliers or skinny pliers will be needed to retrieve the bolt. Lift up on the sensor and remove it, placing it safely with the TB, be careful not to get dirt in the orifice.

Now you need to remove the EVAP purge line from the manifold. This is the black plastic hose that connect on top of manifold near TB, it uses a unique quick release that is very easy to disengage, but also very easy to break if you force it. There is a little nub that you lift up(away from manifold) on and then slide to the side, motion highlighted below.

Now you need to turn your attention to the brake hose. Reach in through all the hoses and harnesses on the drivers side til you reach the power brake booster. pull the hose out of booster(its going to hiss) Once the hose is released from booster you need to look for the manifold connection, its on lower drivers side of manifold, partially obscured from view by oil filter housing. When you can see the connection youll see a white tab, this is the lock for the hose. you need to grasp the hose and spin it approx 180* until you can see underside of lock as in picture. Then using a screwdriver(or fingers) push the lock tabs in as pictured. remove hose.(this step may be easier for some people with the manifold bolts removed)

Using your 10mm socket remove the 2 nuts and 5 bolts that secure manifold to head.(there are 2 nuts and 1 bolt along top of manifold, and 4 bolts along bottom) Remove manifold from engine bay. it may seem like it wont come out, but it will. rotate top of manifold off of studs and then twist/grunt/jerk. With manifold out you can remove the 4 intake port seals. Be cautious not to damage these, because as long as they arent cut or SWOLLEN you can reuse them. If they are gummy or seem bigger than the spot they fit in youll need new ones. DO NOT SPRAY THESE WITH CARB CLEANER, 2+2, BRAKE KLEEN, ETC>>>>> It will ruin them. just wipe them off with a rag if they are oily or dirty.

Now install the intake seals from the 2.2 onto the 2.4 manifold, install your new TB seal, and install your new crankcase passage seal(this seal is highlighted in pic, and has different colors on each side, it doesnt matter what color/side is facing out) Notice how much more massive the 2.2 manifold is than the 2.4 manifold, its not an illusion, there is also a huge weight difference.


Now the most difficult part of the install, you need to enlarge the hole on the 2.4 manifold
MAP sensor hole to accept your MAP sensor. You need to enlarge the hole by.060" or 1.5mm. the quickest way is probably a 1/2" flap wheel like used for porting. You could obviously do it by hand with a file, or the route I chose(because I was out of flap wheels) was a cordless drill and a 15/32" drill bit. You need to enlarge the hole to a point about 1/2" down into hole. Try not to damaged the small orifice at botom of hole. regardless of you method, be sure to take your time, only enlarge the hole just as much as needed, dont crack the manifold(especially large concern if using a drill GO SLOW WITH DRILL) and make sure you clean ALL debris from manifold. Squirt some parts cleaner from the plenum side out through hole just to be sure its clear.


To install simply reverse the removal procedure with a few exceptions.

When installing the TB You need to remove the TB bolt from the oddly place hole in upper left, and place it into the open location slightly below it, now the bolts are in a regular rectnagle pattern.


When installing the power brake hose it now attaches to large nipple immediately below TB
(the pic below is upside down in relation to how you will view nipple with manifold installed on car. Also note the highlighted area. This is epoxy. I had to epoxy this nipple back on because one of my jackass fellow techs knocked the manifold off my box and this shtt the f*ck across the shop Be careful with manifold its fairly delicate, also pay close attn to the EVAP nipple above the TB


When installing the bolt for the oil dipstick/AC hose support bracket, you are not going to put bolt back in same hole in bracket. The 2.4 manifold doesn have a threadsert there. Youll need to install the bolt in the hole in the bottom of the bracket, below th AC line


ALL BOLTS that were removed get retorqued to 10nM/89inlb. This includes the TB bolts, the intake manifold bolts, the support braket bolt.(the MAP sensor bolt isnt reused)


There arent enough spots on the new 2.4 manifold to resecure all of the harness retainers you removed. the major ones are there, but the ones up top near the coolant hos are missing. Secure harnesses together with zipties, or let them go commando(theres not really anything they can get caught in, and there will be minimal slack.


This install including epoxying the brake nipple fiasco and taking pictures took me 35 minutes. Ive done this 2 or 3(dozen) times before though, So I would plan on a solid hour and a half (or significantly more if you dont have recommended tools)to do this swap

I dont recommend a helper, but an audience may be fun.

 

Ill fix all those awesome typos when I get home tonight, I was drugged out on NyQuil last night.
And apparently Ive got some picture links wrong.

 

great post, how does it perform? are you getting it tuned? do you have to run 93 octane now

 

Thanks!
It performs well, theres a noticeable difference. It sounds ever so slightly deeper, the torque is slightly mellowed at around the 3500-4300ish area, you lose the torque spike that you can feel on the stock car, its a actually more linear now, its a smoother pull now, whereas before the torque just came out of nowhere at like 3800, now youll just notice it doesnt have the exact same "grunt" there anymore. But in exchange for this, you get an even more noticeable top end! Where the stock system truly started to peter out at about 5000rpm and your were just playing with yourself if you ran it past 5500, the 2.4 intake just keeps pulling, strong, up top. It pulls all the way to fuel cutoff now.

I wont be getting tuned until I get my exhaust sorted out at minimum(I am having a flowmaster 2.5" system mocked up this weekend hopefully), and I may actually wait until I have a final verdict on my other plans before I get a tune.

No you dont need to run 93. I have been running 89 for a while now though. I do recommend 89, even without a tune.

 

i need this for later, free bump

 

where did you order the plastic filler-plate that goes in the opening?

There is a plate that goes inside the opening on the 2.4 manifold. You can see the notches on each side for it just above the screwdriver handle.


thanks

 

I didnt order the plate. You cant get it, its not serviced seperately from the manifold. I had to return my first manifold to GM and order a second one.

 

is there a way to guarentee that i get the plate thing?

also what was the total cost on this, and would you happen to have the part numbers

 

No, no way to gaurantee it.Same as there is no way to gaurantee your puzzle has all the pieces when you buy it. Just make sure its in there.

Total cost for me isnt relevant, but I think you should be able to get everything for like $175 or less. Ill look around for the numbers they are on the site, I posted them all at least once.

 

Good write up, I will see about getting one on my car, I should be able to get it for less than $20... I'll add some pics to your thread.

 

yea, i just want to make sure i get the intake mani with that thing on it, i would hate to have to return it

 

very cool. thanks for the great write up, I'll be using this soon.

what year of 2.4 did you get it from? or does it not matter?
I was also wondering if you had the part numbers for the manifold, TB seal, and crankcase passage seal

thanks in advance.

 

suscribed

 

Just thought I'd make another post on this thread to answer the questions/explain some problems that I ran into putting this on. I don't know about 09+, but the install is the exactly same for my 2005.

You MUST have a CAI. The CAI cannot be a Fujita. The stock throttle piping will not fit after you put the 2.4L manifold on. Since the Fujita doesn't replace the stock throttle pipe (the big black thing with the dryer hose looking part) you need to ditch it.

The brake booster hose, despite the fancy name, is nothing more than a 1/2 inch wide hose. You need about 2.5 feet of it. Just get 3 feet of hose from Autozone or something for $4 and cut off however much you need to.

Let your car idle for about 10-15 minutes after you put this on, especially if you have an auto. I didn't, and while nothing bad happened, the car shifted hard for about 20 minutes while it adjusted for the increased airflow. Felt like it had a Shift Plus on it, except a car isn't normally supposed to do that. You may not have any problems with it on a manual, but it sure couldn't hurt.

The power difference is amazing. I highly recommend it to anyone who wants more muscle from their 2.2.

Massive props to Maven for this guide. Couldn't have put mine on without him.

 

what year was the manifold from? im guessing from the 08 but i want to make sure before i go out n buy all of it

 

06-07 style manifold. 08 is a new style and is the same as used on 09 2.2s. Unknown whether our not it offers same/worse/better benefits.

 

thanks maven

 

so im gettin ready to order this right now, and they want a vin number. i dont have a 2.4 and will it come with all the gaskets? im ordering from gmpartsdirect.com

 

No it wont come with gaskets, you dont need a VIN number. Just order the part numbers that are posted on this site.

 

does the tb gasket from 2.2 manifold fit the gasket for the 2.4?

 

no...

 

so is there 2 different types of 2.4 manifolds? the one i bought dosent have the piece that sticks out that u stated on your first pic. so i have to buy a new one?
i have a 7 2.2.

 

I just finally opened the box of mine, and it doesn't have that stick out piece as well. i'm an 07.

 

i just installed mine, it dosent need that part that sticks out. i only need the hose that has to be extended, im going to call the dealership to check if i can just buy the 2.4 hose instead of cutting mine up

 

hell my factory intake manifold didn't even come with that extra flap