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2.0 LSJ Engine: How to: Install OTTP Rotated Mount Stage 1

Old Jun 20, 2011 | 03:04 PM
  #51  
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Subd for when i get mine... FYI they are on sale for about 80 bucks now compared to 236...
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Old Oct 22, 2011 | 05:58 PM
  #52  
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Ok my Rotated mount looks diffrent then yours.
Also what do you do with the two bushings that come with it?

I got a mount, a shim with 4 holes (3 bolt ones and one oblong weird shaped hole) and 2 bushings. Where do the bushings go?
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Old Oct 23, 2011 | 06:35 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by insylem
Ok my Rotated mount looks diffrent then yours.
Also what do you do with the two bushings that come with it?

I got a mount, a shim with 4 holes (3 bolt ones and one oblong weird shaped hole) and 2 bushings. Where do the bushings go?
Bushing go on either side of the front mount. You'll see a gap and where to put 'em...
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Old Oct 23, 2011 | 07:33 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by NexTnmE
Bushing go on either side of the front mount. You'll see a gap and where to put 'em...
This
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Old Oct 23, 2011 | 08:17 PM
  #55  
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Cant wait till I can get my Rotated Tranny Mounts within the next couple of weeks, I have SEVERE Wheel Hop! I cant even get on it(WOT) in 1st or 2nd cause I'm afraid of breaking my Axles.
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 05:55 PM
  #56  
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I just got my mounts installed, and I used the side of my 18mm open ended wrench to tap the spacers into place, then I used a large allen key to hang in the next hole so I knew when they were all lined up. Just need to take it for a quick spin then re-tighten the bolts. Just for clarification, the upper mount is the one in the front? I replaced the 2 mounts with OTTP's Stage 2 set.
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 07:26 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by BlackyK
I just got my mounts installed, and I used the side of my 18mm open ended wrench to tap the spacers into place, then I used a large allen key to hang in the next hole so I knew when they were all lined up. Just need to take it for a quick spin then re-tighten the bolts. Just for clarification, the upper mount is the one in the front? I replaced the 2 mounts with OTTP's Stage 2 set.
You have a front and rear tranny mount. The upper mount would be the engine mount.
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 07:50 PM
  #58  
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Oh right, I was thinking afterwards the mount that you replaced if you got the Ingalls stiffy. :P Lovin the mounts so far. My wife said, wtf is wrong with your car now? Its not suppose to vibrate like that. lol
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 06:49 PM
  #59  
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i dont see why people say there cars vibrate. i have the mounts and and no wheel hop and the car doesnt even vibrate lol
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 02:43 PM
  #60  
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 05:10 PM
  #61  
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what does the rotated mount do thats different then the oem one? whats so special about it that the stock mounts with poly bushings can't do?
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 04:05 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by ZZP COBALT
what does the rotated mount do thats different then the oem one? whats so special about it that the stock mounts with poly bushings can't do?
provides the same end result without vibrations from stiff poly bushings. in this case, the mount actual works in the direction the motor wants to rotate; this mount allows the motor to twerk over just a bit more so that there is no severe "hopping" around.
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 10:49 AM
  #63  
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I installed mine this weekend. It took me about 30 minutes tops. I am not a mechanic, I can use hand tools well enough and swap parts.


Some key points -

Read the description multiple times like I did and you will be familiar with the process. I read it so many times I felt I could do it blind folded (thanks to the OP for the pics and details).

The large piece (mount) and how it installs with spacers will be obvious once you remove the old one. The old one is MUCH wider, hence the spacers to take up the space on the main bolt the mount is attached with (Long bolt, 1 spacer on either side of mount).

The 'rear' spacer ( aluminum piece with 4 holes 3 round holes and 1 oblong) is also obvious once you remove the 3 very long bolts shown in the picture. (Step 6) I had to jack up the engine a bit more and had a long thick screwdriver to pry up a bit to get it in.

**Note** = Don't put the car up on the jackstands too high or you won't be able to jack up the motor without a lot of wood blocks if your jack doesn't have enough lift.
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Old Apr 3, 2012 | 10:38 PM
  #64  
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sub'd for this weekend hopefully
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Old Apr 22, 2012 | 05:11 PM
  #65  
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Well I finnaly got mine installed too. I had baught it like six months ago, but because of the winter and work I havn't really had a chance to do it till today. It wasn't too bad really. I loosened the top mount bolts and everything seemed to go together nicely. A few times I needed to adjust the jack height but it went okay. I noticed that the stock mount seems alot more beefier then the OTTP mount, so I hope that's not an issue. I also did a tire rotation and replaced my rear brake pads and changed my oil, filter and cleaned my K&N Air Filter. I was going to do more, but I really need to wait till I can get to a lift for the other things I want to do.
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Old Apr 22, 2012 | 05:15 PM
  #66  
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Thumbs up

Originally Posted by BlackyK
Oh right, I was thinking afterwards the mount that you replaced if you got the Ingalls stiffy. :P Lovin the mounts so far. My wife said, wtf is wrong with your car now? Its not suppose to vibrate like that. lol
I have an ingalls stiffy also, it came with my car since I baught it used. I loosened it up and the upper mount before I started though, then tightened everything back with a torque wrench. Well I had to use 2 different ones because of the torque ranges. I probably could have just used one but I didnt feel like turning the knob all the way up. I havn't really driven it arround much. Once I get my car off jackstands and rolled it out of the garage I was almost desprate for a shower. Now I'm all clean
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Old Dec 1, 2012 | 12:19 AM
  #67  
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ok might be a dumb question but i couldnt see it in the pictures so the rear spacer goes between the frame and the bottom of the rear mount?
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 12:19 PM
  #68  
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 01:17 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by juice3
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Thread Necromancer
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Old Mar 8, 2014 | 09:57 PM
  #70  
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did mine today and they're powells.. vibes are real bad when on the throttle, i torqued the three bolts on the frame down and i don't think i was supposed to do that. how did you guys do it?
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Old Mar 8, 2014 | 10:08 PM
  #71  
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I have heard a few people say they have left the top motor mount 'untorqued' and drive it gently around the block and then tighten it up. That allows things to 'line up'. I installed mine and never had the vibration issue.
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Old Mar 8, 2014 | 10:16 PM
  #72  
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i just did the front one and the bolts on the mount i did with a torque wrench to 42lbs but the rear i blasted tight lol
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Old Mar 8, 2014 | 10:22 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by dro-balt ss
did mine today and they're powells.. vibes are real bad when on the throttle, i torqued the three bolts on the frame down and i don't think i was supposed to do that. how did you guys do it?
I installed a set today and zero vibes. I did carefully review what folks are doing and there is no doubt in my mind that folks are not following the how to. Tonite I revised the how to. If you purchased mine from me, then you got how to v.4 and v.5 addresses in even more detail how to install.

You must be able to start all bolts by hand. If you cannot do that, or push the cross bolt in by hand, then the engine is not balanced correctly.

torque values are in the how to. If you purchased used, make sure you got all the parts. Folks are selling used mounts with no rear spacer which is retarded for stage 1.

perhaps u should contact me directly. this is an ott thread
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