Turbo 2.4 up and running but not great...video inside
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From: Greensburg (PA)
NGK LTR5ix11 is actually stock heat range plug for a 2.2L ecotec J-Body. There are 6ix and 7ix heat variations for these plugs. (I have 6's at home that I bought last year from sparkplugs.com)
The 2.2/2.4L Cobalts use slightly different plugs, and last time I was looking there were no heat variations available. That's probably why the shop said that.
The 2.2/2.4L Cobalts use slightly different plugs, and last time I was looking there were no heat variations available. That's probably why the shop said that.
Doug (celicacobalt) I found some info. http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/s...highlight=hahn
Look at the entire thread but specifically post number 11 where they talk about changing MAP sensor to LSJ and plugs (with GAP).!
Also check this guy out...he's tuning 2.4NA with boost. Fly him out here and have him tune it.!!
..."thanks for the welcome . As For your question. We use Hptuners to control the A/F by using timing . adding fuel and removing fuel when need. yes compression using his to read his levels on the street . when we tune the car on dyno we have are own A/F sensor that we stick in a new bung or the stock one. we always recommed having A/F guage when you boost ur car "
Guys also we have clutch coming out for you guys from bullydog. check the site out
http://www.tagracecraft.com/COBALT.Transmission.htm
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Rhys@TagRacecraft.com
Last edited by GTP; Apr 6, 2007 at 12:09 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
The PCM is tunerlocked so I couldn't read what has been editted to this point. I did take two logs of the car driven a couple of miles while keeping it in closed loop to see how far the MAF was out of whack. Other than idle, it seems alright, but when we did try to put it into PE once, the car would trim itself right back to 14.7 even though the MAF cal was actually commanding extremely rich.
My bet is the original tuner couldn't get the car to come out of closed loop and tried to richen the MAF cal to make up for it. However, no matter how far you throw it out of calibration, it still trims it back. Solution is to find what value is keeping the car from entering PE and open loop. I could have reflashed the car back to stock but because of the injectors installed, we wouldn't have had enough time to rescale the IFR table and retune all in one night.
I'll post the 2 log files after I find a place to host them. Apparantly the most popular cobalt site can't host HPT scanner files.
My bet is the original tuner couldn't get the car to come out of closed loop and tried to richen the MAF cal to make up for it. However, no matter how far you throw it out of calibration, it still trims it back. Solution is to find what value is keeping the car from entering PE and open loop. I could have reflashed the car back to stock but because of the injectors installed, we wouldn't have had enough time to rescale the IFR table and retune all in one night.
I'll post the 2 log files after I find a place to host them. Apparantly the most popular cobalt site can't host HPT scanner files.
Thread Starter
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
no, im trying for wednesday again to see if i can get back on the dyno and retuned. at this point i not sure what needs done but the car is running bad when it goes into boost
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From: Greensburg (PA)
Did you call the guys at the shop in th elink I posted??? Call 'em up an ask 50 questions on tuning the MAF and how you can enable PE values and open loop what hav eyou go tot loose. CALL 'EM!!! they've tuned a few Solstices on HP Tuners!
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
can you forward thats shops info to me again, i cant find it. ill see they have to say. wednesday isnt looking good now, the tuner is gonna be out of town all next week. the shop manager ed might try to do some tuning though with out him but also the tuner said he is getting a update on ls2 edit that will open new things in my pcm to tune this.
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Joined: 02-28-06
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From: Greensburg (PA)
can you forward thats shops info to me again, i cant find it. ill see they have to say. wednesday isnt looking good now, the tuner is gonna be out of town all next week. the shop manager ed might try to do some tuning though with out him but also the tuner said he is getting a update on ls2 edit that will open new things in my pcm to tune this.
I wonder if the Solstice guys (boosted 2.4NAs) are using these plugs?
Doug (celicacobalt) I found some info. http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/s...highlight=hahn
Look at the entire thread but specifically post number 11 where they talk about changing MAP sensor to LSJ and plugs (with GAP).!
Also check this guy out...he's tuning 2.4NA with boost. Fly him out here and have him tune it.!!
..."thanks for the welcome . As For your question. We use Hptuners to control the A/F by using timing . adding fuel and removing fuel when need. yes compression using his to read his levels on the street . when we tune the car on dyno we have are own A/F sensor that we stick in a new bung or the stock one. we always recommed having A/F guage when you boost ur car "
Guys also we have clutch coming out for you guys from bullydog. check the site out
http://www.tagracecraft.com/COBALT.Transmission.htm
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Rhys@TagRacecraft.com
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From: Winnipeg, MB
How exactly are you contributing to the discussion? Calling people n00bs and telling them to ditch thier **** isn't exactly helpful or positive. He's put a lot of money and time into this, and it's bloody awesome to see someone who's been talking about going turbo for so long actually DO IT, unlike 99% of the turbo dreamers out there. If you're not part of the solution..
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From: nashville
uhh read the post before mine i got called noob first....im contributing by saying you should get a manual tranny instead of the auto...is there even a problem that he posted...or is he just saying check out my **** dude either way...all i said was get a manual tranmission
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From: Norwich NY
See above.
My 2.4 on the dyno shows that same drop in HP and torque at 3750, then a sharper rise in both than before the drop. I don't think your lean spike is causing the drop, I think the drop is causing the lean spike. The reason I say that is because mine doesn't exhibit that lean spike, but does show that drop at 3750. We assume that 3750 is the switch point for the cam. As the cam advances, there is some drop in HP and torque as overlap goes up, and then it picks up better than before as the revs rise. I think GM may have put the switch point just a hair early, or it's done on purpose so the switch doesn't cause a HP spike if switched later.
Anyway, bottom line is that stock 2.4's show this little dip at 3750. What it doesn't show is that earlier spike, which I assume is where boost comes up. It would be beneficial to add a plot line for boost to this so you can see if boost rise is causing the lean spike.
Keep it in mind as you tune.
Are you monitoring the knock sensor? If you're not getting knock retard, then it might not be too lean (but it looks REALLY close!).
uhh read the post before mine i got called noob first....im contributing by saying you should get a manual tranny instead of the auto...is there even a problem that he posted...or is he just saying check out my **** dude either way...all i said was get a manual tranmission
10.0:1 is rich, not lean i thaught...... this would mean it is very lean to begin with, then becomes really rich, at least thats what someone told me............ideally, boosted cars should be what around 13.5 or 12.5 someone told me i cannot remember........ at 10, pure black smoke and flames must come out the exhaust.....
adding fuel can act as a cooler to prevent detonation and knocking, so it will run a little richer than a n/a WOT AFR would. Im not sure on the exact numbers, but 10.0 isnt too far off
Last edited by Halfcent; Apr 10, 2007 at 12:46 PM.
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
10.0:1 is rich, not lean i thaught...... this would mean it is very lean to begin with, then becomes really rich, at least thats what someone told me............ideally, boosted cars should be what around 13.5 or 12.5 someone told me i cannot remember........ at 10, pure black smoke and flames must come out the exhaust.....
As for the noob comments above... there's no need to even respond to them. The new guy is obviously clueless when it comes to modifying cars. Built auto trannies are used in drag cars all the time.... while this isn't the same kind of tranny, for a daily driver that's also going to serve up a little weekend fun, I see no problem with turbocharging car with an auto tranny. This kid will run dead consistent 1/4 mile times when he gets his technique down. I'd put my money on him any day of the week in the bracket races against whatever the new guy's driving (srt4 maybe?). And besides, the fun in modifying a car is taking what you have and improving upon it as well as making it unique. He's accomplished both of those in this project.
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
well, making it to my scheduled race day of april 22nd is not looking good at this point. The tuner is in texas this week, my boost is still at 10psi and i have yet to get the 1 stage colder plugs in, though i have them now. If by some miracle that next week we get it tuned then that would be great but if not and the tuner we originally had cannot figure this out then the shop owner wants to go half on buying hp tuners and he said he can tune it but he wants to move my o2 sensor further away from the downpipe for better readings. problem with all of this is i dont know where i would get the money to go half on hp tuners which is like $300. im pretty much totally wiped out of money unless i apply for another credit card and go more into debt. This project is definately not easy for those thinking of doing this.
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From: nashville
how would ditching his tranny help at all? his auto is fine, and is in fact better than a manual....so your either retarded, a troll, or just an *******
{quote}10.0:1 is rich, not lean i thaught...... this would mean it is very lean to begin with, then becomes really rich, at least thats what someone told me............ideally, boosted cars should be what around 13.5 or 12.5 someone told me i cannot remember........ at 10, pure black smoke and flames must come out the exhaust.....
{quote}10.0:1 is rich, not lean i thaught...... this would mean it is very lean to begin with, then becomes really rich, at least thats what someone told me............ideally, boosted cars should be what around 13.5 or 12.5 someone told me i cannot remember........ at 10, pure black smoke and flames must come out the exhaust.....
adding fuel can act as a cooler to prevent detonation and knocking, so it will run a little richer than a n/a WOT AFR would. Im not sure on the exact numbers, but 10.0 isnt too far off[/QUOTE]
ok can you show me how a auto tranny would be better for his application..is this car gonna be a full drag car??? when is he gonna be building alot of boost...the turbo on his application seems small so spool isn't an issue. is the auto tranny stronger then the manual if so i guess its better..if not then what are the advantages of having a auto tranny in his car?
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From: Denver Metro
uhh read the post before mine i got called noob first....im contributing by saying you should get a manual tranny instead of the auto...is there even a problem that he posted...or is he just saying check out my **** dude either way...all i said was get a manual tranmission
As for "junking the auto" take a look at the facts. Auto turbo cars are faster than the same car with a 5-speed. See Car & Driver's tests of the Sky, for example.
