Why don't you just hook it up so you can pop your trunk and then charge it yourself from the trunk? From what I remember reading, your car isn't going anywhere for a while...

 

thats what im saying, is it safe to hook a charger up to the jumping points in front

 

bump... lol sry rlly need to know

 

Pages 5-40 through 5-44

https://www.mygmlink.com/pdf/go2cont...2006cobalt.pdf

Basically, make sure he's using a 12 volt battery, both ignitions are off when you connect the jumper cables. Connect the red cable to your positive (red) terminal, then to his positive (red) terminal, then connect the negative cable to his negative (black) terminal, and then to a grounded metal part of your engine bay. The book reccomends that you the remote negative (−) ground terminal, marked GND (−), is located behind the engine coolant surge tank. Basically, your strut tower bolt. Just make sure you don't touch the cables to anything while you are connecting them to the appropriate locations.

EDIT: Start his car first then yours if you want to jump it. If not, you should have enough power if he starts his to pop your trunk. To remove the cables you basically reverse the way you connected the cables. Hope that helps!

 

P.S. - Now might be a good time to think about rigging up a cable to be able to release your seatbacks from the inside.

 

ok listen up look at the under side of lower column cover there is a square hole with a cover on it take a small flat head an pop off cover look up inside hole there will b a white knub stickin out push that in with your finger an turn key off an pull out of ignition

 

The points in the front are made to jump the car and you should be fine to use them otherwise they wouldn't put them there. I helped a lady jump hers from the front and it worked perfect.

 

he hooked one of those little portable jump starters up upder the hood, poped my trunk then hooked it up to the battery, just felt safer, and i turned the key and it fired up

 

Thank you, that's what I've been trying to say! Still doesn't solve his dead battery problem though. But I'm unsure if that mechanism will unlock if he just gets the battery up and running. He probably is still going to need to reset that button.

 

thanks so much guys

 

btw it will prob need a batt they are junk take it to the dealer the batt prob has a bad cell an wont hold a charge ....pos a/c delco battery

 

na hes fine thats a manual release for an electric part so u can get the key out in situations like this

 

the little rubber slider in the shifter gets binded under the center by the shifter. just pop up the center plastic over the shifter first has a few cli[ps and up it goes then take it off the e-brake and u can see the shifter assembly binding either ***** rig it or just go warranty ur slider guides

 

what? ive never had that bind plus like it was said up there it was my batt

 

They are actually pretty decent batteries you just need to know how to charge and maintain them. They are like the old Buick Riveria Batteries, Absorbent Glass Mat.

AGM batteries use Fiberglass Matting to hold the cell together rather than pure liquid cell. They are required by law if the battery is not in the engine compartment. The problem is that these will die if you hit them with any more than about 3amps while charging, they only work with trickle chargers.... So if you have one dead at the dealership, the car jockey cant start it, runs a charger out to the car and then charges the battery, now the battery is going to die, it just takes a bit...

 

^tru but most ac delco batt have the cell go bad an wont hold charges i do at least 1 day