Problems/Service/Maintenance Do you have problems with your new 2.0, 2.2, or 2.4L? What kind of service did you have done?

Replacing lifters

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Old Apr 2, 2010 | 02:05 PM
  #26  
Chevycobaltss3's Avatar
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From: Vine Grove Kentucky
uhhh ive done it, just make sure you take one out at a time, very difficult but easy lol...

It took me about 1 1/2 hours

Last edited by Chevycobaltss3; Apr 2, 2010 at 02:05 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Apr 2, 2010 | 02:31 PM
  #27  
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Heres some info for you !


Tools Required
J 43655 Camshaft Sprocket Holding Tool

Removal Procedure
•Remove the camshaft cover. Refer to Camshaft Cover Replacement .

•Remove the upper timing chain guide.

•Install the J 43655 .

•Remove both the intake and exhaust camshaft sprocket bolts and discard.
•Slide the camshaft sprockets forward.

•Mark the caps to ensure they are installed in the original position.
Important: Remove each bolt on each cap one turn at a time until there is no spring tension on the camshaft.

•Remove the caps.
•Remove the camshaft.

•Remove the camshaft roller followers.

•Remove the hydraulic lash adjusters.
Installation Procedure

•Lubricate the valve tips.

•Install the hydraulic lash adjusters.

Install the camshaft roller followers.

•Ensure that the alignment notches are aligned with the camshaft sprocket.

•Install the camshaft.
•Install the caps.
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in the Preface section.

•Tighten the camshaft bearing cap bolts in increments of 3 turns until they are seated.
Tighten
Tighten the camshaft bearing cap bolts to 10 Nˇm (89 lb in).


•Apply a 3.5 mm (0.138 in) bead of sealant to the rear cap. Refer to Sealers, Adhesives, and Lubricants for the correct part number.
•Install the rear intake camshaft bearing cap bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 25 Nˇm (18 lb ft).

•Install camshaft sprockets onto the camshafts.
•Hand tighten NEW camshaft sprocket bolts.
•Remove the J 43655 .

•Tighten the camshaft sprocket bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 85 Nˇm (63 lb ft) plus 30 degrees.


•Install the upper timing chain guide.
Tighten
Tighten the upper timing chain guide to 10 Nˇm (89 lb in).

•Install the camshaft cover. Refer to Camshaft Cover Replacement .
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Old Apr 2, 2010 | 02:46 PM
  #28  
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From: Vine Grove Kentucky
this man right here above me coblasts is correct on every work, the right way not the fast way but there are back roads you can take to do the lifter, do i recommend it to some young kid who has no experience, no! to some one of age and who is expereinced, yes!
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 03:56 PM
  #29  
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From: Houston, TX
Well I just installed 1 of 2. The hardest one, the top left. I unbolted the camshaft guides, 5<4<3<2<1. Rose the camshaft up ever so slightly, just enough to stick in the lifter. Slipped in the lifter and rocker arm, and reinstalled bolts.

Going to do it again tomorrow with the lifter just to the right of the one today.

Thoughts?
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 09:19 PM
  #30  
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From: Vine Grove Kentucky
Good job bro it is really easy the harder ones are the one closest to the cam gears and at the end of the cams.....
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 11:39 PM
  #31  
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From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by Chevycobaltss3
Good job bro it is really easy the harder ones are the one closest to the cam gears and at the end of the cams.....
Yeah I had to put in THE hardest one today. The closest one to the cam gears on the side facing the exhaust, I'm bleeding in 3 places haha . I figured I'd do the hardest one first and then when I put in #2 it should be a "simple install". As soon as I put in the 2nd one I'm doing a full out oil change with lighter weight oil to run the broken parts on the bottom of the motor out the oil release hole. And let the oil filter catch the rest. Then i'll do another oil change with my regular oil and oil filter. Then have a nice hours worth of driving.
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Old Apr 9, 2010 | 07:09 AM
  #32  
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From: Vine Grove Kentucky
cool man. Hopefully all goes weel, dont drop a lifter inside your spark plug hole lol, i almost did. that would have sucks. since i dont have a magnet any more.
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Old Apr 10, 2010 | 10:52 AM
  #33  
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From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by Chevycobaltss3
cool man. Hopefully all goes weel, dont drop a lifter inside your spark plug hole lol, i almost did. that would have sucks. since i dont have a magnet any more.
Yeah I hope this is my only problem. I doubt i'll drop a lifter in there but good thing theres plugs in the holes so I lose them forever and cost more money.
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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 12:58 AM
  #34  
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From: Vine Grove Kentucky
When mine went bad my car was ticking like a bi*** and sounded like a subaru lol....
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 09:15 PM
  #35  
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From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by Chevycobaltss3
When mine went bad my car was ticking like a bi*** and sounded like a subaru lol....
Thats exactly how mine sounded... Like EXACTLY. Then it blew a 2nd lifter and it was done. But I fixed it today! Sounds just like it used to. Its been 5 months since it has sounded like this. Sounded pretty cool as a Subaru though, but I knew something was wrong. I'm just glad its all over now.
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 08:47 AM
  #36  
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From: Vine Grove Kentucky
oh yeah i kinda hated the subeeeeeee sound lol, sound like i was gonna blow soon , but way better now lol.. cool you got it fixed. congrats bro
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 11:44 AM
  #37  
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From: Houston, TX
Kinda miss my Ubaru sound though, idk mine sounded cool as ****, but I knew something was wrong all along. I have a few threads on people trying to help me diagnose the sound. So far I've replaced my entire exhaust, spark plugs, intake, and like 99999 gaskets. Just to crack open the valve cover and find the real problem. How long did you wait before you even thought about redlining it again?
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 12:04 PM
  #38  
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From: Vine Grove Kentucky
1 second after i was done, because my lsj is built, just not the head so i seen how far it could go, and apparently its not 8k rpm lol
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Old Jun 30, 2016 | 12:02 AM
  #39  
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From: Sydney
Originally Posted by BULLETSSMOKE
Kinda miss my Ubaru sound though, idk mine sounded cool as ****, but I knew something was wrong all along. I have a few threads on people trying to help me diagnose the sound. So far I've replaced my entire exhaust, spark plugs, intake, and like 99999 gaskets. Just to crack open the valve cover and find the real problem. How long did you wait before you even thought about redlining it again?
We have been running around like that for at least 6 months, then it started to lose power....

However earlier we had a oil leak we could never find, would coat the turbo and have the smell of burning oil for the 2 years we have had the car.

Well we pulled of the turbo to check if it was leaking, we also pulled the rocker cover off as well. Suprise!

One exhaust lifter on cylinder three broken, cracked cylinder head too (explains oil leak it must of been cracked for ages) explains the Subaru sound!
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