Bought switchbacks from Mike and I'm having problems getting the hyperflash to go away. I have the correct resistors and everything and followed his how-to:
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-...isters-276188/

I have an 07 btw. I tapped into the blue wire and the black wire just like in his how-to, but still hyperflash?

Messed around with the other wires coming from blinker bulb (theres a total of 3 (1 blue, 1 black, 1 brown) and tapped into every wire combo I could have from that group and they still hyperflashed.
NOW, I did only my drivers side at the time, with the other side being the stock bulb. Does that matter? I also have k2 motor led tails, but had them done a while ago with resistors and never hyperflashed on me (they do now obviously cuz of the switchbacks).

Anybody have ideas?

 

Make sure they taps are making a solid connection. Assuming you're using those blue taps, I've had bad luck with them in the past.

 

What I was thinking too. When I took the connects off the wire the insulation seemed to be broken though

 

Use ”T-taps”... They work best. You can pick them up in your local Radio Shack.

Also, you have a resistor in each corner, right?

 

Dont use T Taps..if you know how to solder..that way you have a 100% true Connection.

 

Not sure what you mean by resistor in each corner? I have the 2 resistors in the rear for the tails...worked fine before installing the switchbacks, no hyperflash.
I installed the driver side switchback just like in the how-to and it hyperflashed. I had the passenger side stock bulb in at the time.

Really don't want to solder just in case I ever need to remove them its a bit trickier and more time consuming.

 

It doesn't matter if the stock bulb is still in the other headlight, that won't affect the hyperflash.

If you tapped the blue from the blinker and the black from the stock harness you shouldn't have hyperflash. I believe the stock harness has a brown wire that looks like a black one if I remember right, make sure you didn't tap into it by accident instead of the black.

Other than that just make sure you have a good connection like Tommy said. I used T-taps.

If you still have hyperflash then I'd say the resistor is bad, try the other you have to see if it works.

 

if you have a voltmeter check the Resistors..

 

Thnx guys. Yea im gunna check the resistors with a volt meter and see if their good. Yea I tried both resistors with the drivers side and still had hyperflash. If the resistors are good after I check them out i'll just get different wire taps. These the ones you used:? Wire Tap-In Squeeze Connectors (7-Pack) : Connectors | RadioShack.com

 

i have those squeeze type connectors that i bought from him also, and they work perfect.

 

Did u strip the wires

 

picked up 2 different wire taps at radioshack today. One is a 18-14 gauge connect (the blue) and the other is a 22-18 gauge (red/pink) Which should I use?

 

Red

 

yea used the red ones. Seem to be working alright now. Had to squeeze the drivers side tighter after it must've lossened a bit after I put the headlight back in place so we'll c how they hold up. Really nice to not have hyperflash now lol

 

Glad you got it fixed and yeah I hate hyperflash lol

 

I had to put a resistor at each one of four turn signals (two front and two back)... Not sure why, they were big enough to run both... probably has something to do with ECM controlling each individual turn signal, not just a load across each side.

 

That.

That's what I meant but them working best. Easily reversible. If your resistor is mounted with a bracket to the body of the car, you don't have to unbolt that every time you remove the headlight (for the bulb, to replace fog lights, etc), you can just unplug the t-taps.

And if you think that crimped connections are bad - every connection coming to the ECU/fuse box/switch is crimped. Works just as well if done right and is removable. Yes, with soldering you get a solid connection, but it's a PITA (gotta cut and tape over every time you have to modify or return to stock)

 

I went with a different type:
Quick Splice Connector with Male Disconnector (3-Pack) : Disconnectors | RadioShack.com


Once they're on, they become a true removable/disconnect-able T-tap connection.




It was suggested by one of experienced installers for anything that might need to be reversed. I used blue on mine with no issues.