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Its been awile since i did a updated ive been saving up for the few big price stuff i still need so i did what i can for the time being
just a little dash work
Well had a slight hiccup my daily took a crap on me so I sold it and bought another Cobalt SS but cylinder 3 was dead in it so I pulled the LDK out of the 240 slapped it in the yellow Cobalt and now I'm ordering a fresh LDK long block to put in the 240 and get it back together again be back to work on the 240SS soon
Glad to see this still moving. Is the gas pedal necessary I assume for the swap? and clutch pedal? I intend to do this in a race car so the more complexity I can remove...the better. Hurry up with the new block! lol
Yeah gas pedal was necessary because is drive-by-wire clutch pedal was not necessary but I put it in anyways lol what are you thinking about putting it in
I was thinking of using the L61 throttle body so I didn't have to drive by wire but the ECU will want that input so I would only create different work elsewhere by not swapping the pedal.
Did this ever get finished? I just swapped a turbo LE5 into my 240sx although I took a very different route. Started mine last May. Used a T5 with a V6 bellhousing, Stock oil pan with ribs removed, and various other bits. All the interior and gauges are stock and functional. E67 PCM tuned with HP Tuners.
Nope still not done between my 3 kids and wife, job and life its been a bit hard plus i do everything by my self i have nobody to help me sooo its still in the works i have gotten more done since my last update motor and trans are in for the last time now just need to finish fuel lines and coolant lines wire up 240 fuel pump and tail lights in to the cobalt harness and a custom made driveshaft and it will be done here are a few pics
You may be able to get away with a stock length 83-02 Camaro driveshaft like I used. The AR5 can use a slip yoke if you remove the 'cup' on the back of the transmission and my measurements indicate that the AR5 is the same length and spline count as a T5. I just got an aftermarket Nissan rear flange and a u-joint to connect it to the Camaro shaft (one piece aluminium.
Yep that is pretty much the plan gm 27 spline slip yoke and the rear yoke off a 240 shaft and take it up to a drive shaft shop and have them make a one piece shaft
Oh i miss understood u i got u now u picked up a shaft and changed the ends and it was perfect what year was the camaro so i can go junk yard hunting lol
82-02 are all the same. Basically anything that came behind a T5, 700r4, 4L60E and T56 are all the same length. Aluminum shafts are more common on Z28s, Trans And and Formulas. The front slip yoke should already fit on the AR5, just need to change the rear for a Nissan flange.
Did this ever get finished? I just swapped a turbo LE5 into my 240sx although I took a very different route. Started mine last May. Used a T5 with a V6 bellhousing, Stock oil pan with ribs removed, and various other bits. All the interior and gauges are stock and functional. E67 PCM tuned with HP Tuners.
so how did you get the oil pan to clear? You used a t5 trans instead of the AR5? I have a motor/trans/wiring pullout for sale locally and I'm thinking of ditching the KA for this motor as well
so how did you get the oil pan to clear? You used a t5 trans instead of the AR5? I have a motor/trans/wiring pullout for sale locally and I'm thinking of ditching the KA for this motor as well
Here's some pics. I also did an LS1/GTO pan style crossmember notch (not my crossmember notch pictured)
The V6 T5 bellhousing has the same dowel pin locations as an Ecotec so I made a very simple 1/8" thick adapter plate. Used a stock flywheel and pressure plate with a dual friction disc I had lying around for a V6Z24 (9 1/8"). Spaced out the clutch fork pivot a bit because the height of the FWD Ecotec clutch setup is different from the RWD V6 clutch height. Stock RWD 60*V6 pilot bushing was a direct fit for the Ecotec crank.
Engine mounts were fabricated to bolt to the factory crossmember slots and I made a custom mount for the KA24DE power steering pump in place of the stock A/C compressor location
The stock KA24DE RWD pump uses a 4-rib belt, so I used a 6-rib PS pulley from a FWD KA (bolts right on)
Also used a Saab 9-3 LK9 Return style fuel rail to interface more easily with the stock 240sx fuel system.
I was wondering how you did the PS pump swap. I was going to have a custom pulley made but that's even easier. I was contemplating a custom tubular subframe so I could shave more weight off the nose too and avoid a custom oil pan but that's a lot of work or money depending on who does the fabrication. I too planned to just make custom metal brackets that bolt on to the motor to utilize my KA engine mounts. I won't be going turbo, but I presume the header would fit pretty easy since there's no steering shaft. I would much prefer the exhaust on the passenger side of the car because the header I have on the KA melted my racing shoes on the driver side floorboard. Need heat shielding to say the least. What part of the country you in?
I was wondering how you did the PS pump swap. I was going to have a custom pulley made but that's even easier. I was contemplating a custom tubular subframe so I could shave more weight off the nose too and avoid a custom oil pan but that's a lot of work or money depending on who does the fabrication. I too planned to just make custom metal brackets that bolt on to the motor to utilize my KA engine mounts. I won't be going turbo, but I presume the header would fit pretty easy since there's no steering shaft. I would much prefer the exhaust on the passenger side of the car because the header I have on the KA melted my racing shoes on the driver side floorboard. Need heat shielding to say the least. What part of the country you in?
I'm in Vancouver, Canada
The crossmember notch is pretty simple to do compared to a custom crossmember. It also wasn't too much work. There is tons of room on the exhaust side because of no steering shaft or master cylinders. That being said it's pretty crowded in mine because of all the turbo-related stuff.
Some other tidbits:
- The stock 240sx clutch master has too small of a bore to actuate the T5 (or AR5) slave cylinder. I found that a 95 Grand am clutch master fit with some minor 'adjustments' (including the fact that the 240 clutch master tip literally threads right onto it) and has a large enough bore to actuate the T5 slave just fine. I can't say for certain it's enough for the AR5 HTOB
- I found that an 03ish Hyundai Elantra radiator was a good fit for both the 240sx and Ecotec engine (ideal inlet and outlets) I also used a J-body T-stat housing which brought the water inlet a little closer to the side of the engine.
- It's possible to use the VSS output on an E67 to send a signal to the stock 240sx speedo with a simple circuit that converts the digital square wave signal to close enough to a sine wave
- The E67 tach output works just fine with the 240sx stock tach
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