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New header & down-pipe sale!

Old Jul 30, 2008 | 03:53 PM
  #676  
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They run dangerously lean.
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 04:01 PM
  #677  
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Yea, well as far as mine was concerned, they run dangerously terribly. I had terrible performance with a ton of hesitation and stumbling. The car would basically never run right unless you took it easy on it. I start a thread about it awhile back. If anyone's interested...

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l-lsj-performance-tech-47/bad-stumble-hesitation-popping-after-upgrades-115481/
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 04:05 PM
  #678  
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You have 60# injectors with a 42# injector tune (I assume they don't make tunes specifically for 60#s). That's your first problem.
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 04:12 PM
  #679  
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Intense definately makes tunes for 60# injectors... They have an option when you buy their PCM's. Also it's their Stage 4 kit... It comes with 60#'s and a 2.7"... I had them throw in a 2.8" instead to be a little safer
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 05:43 PM
  #680  
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So when tuning for headers and exhaust what all is there we can touch up on and get the most power out of the header and exhaust
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 07:41 PM
  #681  
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Originally Posted by onefstgtu
Up-date on shipping:
the remainder of the 1 3/4" header/DP combo's ship today.
We are waiting for a car to do one last test fitting of the TRI-Y header to confirm the O2 bung location. Of those, two are raw steel and will ship immediately. One is getting ceramic coated and will go for coating following final test fit.
So there were 3 tri-y headers out of the whole GB and only one of those three are going for ceramic coating? And since I'm the one that ordered the one with ceramic coating I'm going to be the last one shipped i'm guessing. I know I said I could be last, but it was just to make a point, I wasn't serious haha. No just kidding though, take your time on it, I'll get it when I get it & take solace in the fact that it's 1 of 1 .
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 08:07 PM
  #682  
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I got mine in today. I must say that this is a quality piece. Really well made, looks like it will handle the airflow demands i'll hit it with pretty well. The velocity cone is a little off center, which is no biggie, and the bottoms of the ports are still raised a bit, where they were cut down. Top side is nice and smooth though, and thats where it matters, so I'm very impressed, high quality piece you guys are putting together.

I just didn't think about welding the slipon flange on the DP, its aluminized, i'm gonna have to clean that off to weld it, then its gonna rust there
Might have to just clamp it for now.
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 09:23 PM
  #683  
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From: Auburn, WA
Originally Posted by shsballa023
So when tuning for headers and exhaust what all is there we can touch up on and get the most power out of the header and exhaust
Don't think of it as a header/exhaust specific tune. When you order the "tune" it will account for everything you have done. At least if you order from us.

Originally Posted by Littlegoose
So there were 3 tri-y headers out of the whole GB and only one of those three are going for ceramic coating? And since I'm the one that ordered the one with ceramic coating I'm going to be the last one shipped i'm guessing. I know I said I could be last, but it was just to make a point, I wasn't serious haha. No just kidding though, take your time on it, I'll get it when I get it & take solace in the fact that it's 1 of 1 .
Yup, that would be you. When you said you could be last, we tossed all of your parts into a box and stuck it under a bench. Just kidding. The TRI-Y header is completely different and we want to make sure the O2 sensor is properly located. I'll get a picture and post it for everyone to see.
You are "1 of 1".
Thanks again.

Last edited by ClearImageAuto Dan; Jul 30, 2008 at 09:23 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 09:47 PM
  #684  
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Originally Posted by ClearImageAuto Dan
Don't think of it as a header/exhaust specific tune. When you order the "tune" it will account for everything you have done. At least if you order from us.



Yup, that would be you. When you said you could be last, we tossed all of your parts into a box and stuck it under a bench. Just kidding. The TRI-Y header is completely different and we want to make sure the O2 sensor is properly located. I'll get a picture and post it for everyone to see.
You are "1 of 1".
Thanks again.
I guess it makes me 2 of 2.... Once again I will drag that test fit car down there for the TRI-Y's if I have too!
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 09:47 PM
  #685  
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From: Auburn, WA
Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1
I got mine in today. I must say that this is a quality piece. Really well made, looks like it will handle the airflow demands i'll hit it with pretty well. The velocity cone is a little off center, which is no biggie, and the bottoms of the ports are still raised a bit, where they were cut down. Top side is nice and smooth though, and thats where it matters, so I'm very impressed, high quality piece you guys are putting together.

I just didn't think about welding the slipon flange on the DP, its aluminized, i'm gonna have to clean that off to weld it, then its gonna rust there
Might have to just clamp it for now.
Please ellaborate on the "bottoms of the ports". Is your header ceramic coated?
Velocity cones are all hand cut and welded so it is difficult to get them perfectly centered.

We are glad you are happy with the header.
Thanks again.
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 09:52 PM
  #686  
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From: Miami, FL
Originally Posted by ClearImageAuto Dan
Please ellaborate on the "bottoms of the ports". Is your header ceramic coated?
Velocity cones are all hand cut and welded so it is difficult to get them perfectly centered.

We are glad you are happy with the header.
Thanks again.
The bottom side of the port, at the flange. I see where you smoothed them out with a burr, but there is still a rise to it on the back side of the flange, the tube intrudes into the airflow path a little. I might touch it up a little, or leave it, its not enough to make a difference, and its on the bottom so it matters even less.

I know on the cone, just saying. It looks really good though, but I know what a bitch it is to set stuff like that up perfect, thats what I do all day at work, jig **** to be 100% perfect. Granted, most of our products are custom/one off and substantially more expensive. Like I said, I am highly impressed with the quailty of build on this header. I was liking it when I first saw pics, and after waiting two years I don't regert finally pulling the trigger and getting a header that I will be happy with.

Mine was not coated, its going for some Jet Hot tomorrow
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 09:52 PM
  #687  
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From: Auburn, WA
Originally Posted by onefstgtu
I guess it makes me 2 of 2.... Once again I will drag that test fit car down there for the TRI-Y's if I have too!
When can you have it here?

I guess we should start blowing the dust off of your parts too.
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 09:57 PM
  #688  
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can i still get in on this ? i pm'd you dan
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 10:00 PM
  #689  
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jUST installed my header and dp combo and my car started running like **** , it started backfiring loud and sputtering and stuff AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH And then i turned my car off after like 20 minutes of driving and then turned it back on and had no problems yet but i havnt driven around town. i had a ported header with zzp downpipe before with no problems but ill check for leaks on friday.
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 10:09 PM
  #690  
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From: Auburn, WA
Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1
The bottom side of the port, at the flange. I see where you smoothed them out with a burr, but there is still a rise to it on the back side of the flange, the tube intrudes into the airflow path a little. I might touch it up a little, or leave it, its not enough to make a difference, and its on the bottom so it matters even less.

I know on the cone, just saying. It looks really good though, but I know what a bitch it is to set stuff like that up perfect, thats what I do all day at work, jig **** to be 100% perfect. Granted, most of our products are custom/one off and substantially more expensive. Like I said, I am highly impressed with the quailty of build on this header. I was liking it when I first saw pics, and after waiting two years I don't regert finally pulling the trigger and getting a header that I will be happy with.

Mine was not coated, its going for some Jet Hot tomorrow
Got ya. When the primary tubes are initially placed through the flange in the "jig" (Fixture), a stitch weld is done at the bottom, outside of the flange to keep the tube from moving. After the header is assembled with collector, it is removed from the fixture and placed in a vise for finish work. Now, the port shaping is all done by hand. With the tube red hot, the inside is shaped to match the inside circumference of the flange. Because there is a solid weld on the other side, we can not fully shape the tube because the weld prevents it from moving. Thus you end up with a little "rise" in the tube. In order to alleviate it completely, a spot weld would be used, then ground off so we could fully shape the port. But as you said, "perfect" costs a lot more than we are charging for these headers. There are some compromises which allow for easier install, much improved clearance to the nuts with a socket/wrench, etc. All in all we believe we are offering the BEST quality and finish work for the money. We hope everyone agrees.

Thanks again.

Originally Posted by Projekt
can i still get in on this ? i pm'd you dan
Yes, we have headers in stock in various configurations for the best price from page 1. Give me a call:
(425)251-0329.
Thanks.

Originally Posted by Darkmanx
jUST installed my header and dp combo and my car started running like **** , it started backfiring loud and sputtering and stuff AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH And then i turned my car off after like 20 minutes of driving and then turned it back on and had no problems yet but i havnt driven around town. i had a ported header with zzp downpipe before with no problems but ill check for leaks on friday.
Header and down-pipe have no moving parts and do nothing but allow the engine to run more efficiently. Back firing is an indication of a mis-fire. Did you happen to change spark plugs? if so, check and make sure the wires are correct. Or, a bad O2 sensor, un-plugged O2 sensor or O2 sensor plugged in wrong could cause a problem.

I'm not sure if you got a cat or cat delete. If you got a cat delete, typically the rear O2 sensor will have no effect on performance.

Check for exhaust leaks for sure. But even an exhaust leak should not result in back firing. You should NOT continue to drive your car in that condition. Check everything, double check everything and then do it all again.

Keep us posted.
Thanks.

Last edited by ClearImageAuto Dan; Jul 30, 2008 at 10:13 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 10:15 PM
  #691  
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awesome thanks alot for the advice dan, ill make sure to place my order ASAP

sorry to bother you again dan, can you pm me the price of the 1 5/8ths header-2.5 downpipe with and without the cat so i can send you the right amount of money tomorrow on pay pal,

and how many people are on with it so i know what kind of discount there is aswell, thanks again dan.

oh and shipping to canada? lol

Last edited by Projekt; Jul 30, 2008 at 10:15 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 10:17 PM
  #692  
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From: FL.. FT LAUDERDALE/MAIMI
Originally Posted by ClearImageAuto Dan
Got ya. When the primary tubes are initially placed through the flange in the "jig" (Fixture), a stitch weld is done at the bottom, outside of the flange to keep the tube from moving. After the header is assembled with collector, it is removed from the fixture and placed in a vise for finish work. Now, the port shaping is all done by hand. With the tube red hot, the inside is shaped to match the inside circumference of the flange. Because there is a solid weld on the other side, we can not fully shape the tube because the weld prevents it from moving. Thus you end up with a little "rise" in the tube. In order to alleviate it completely, a spot weld would be used, then ground off so we could fully shape the port. But as you said, "perfect" costs a lot more than we are charging for these headers. There are some compromises which allow for easier install, much improved clearance to the nuts with a socket/wrench, etc. All in all we believe we are offering the BEST quality and finish work for the money. We hope everyone agrees.

Thanks again.



Yes, we have headers in stock in various configurations for the best price from page 1. Give me a call:
(425)251-0329.
Thanks.



Header and down-pipe have no moving parts and do nothing but allow the engine to run more efficiently. Back firing is an indication of a mis-fire. Did you happen to change spark plugs? if so, check and make sure the wires are correct. Or, a bad O2 sensor, un-plugged O2 sensor or O2 sensor plugged in wrong could cause a problem.

I'm not sure if you got a cat or cat delete. If you got a cat delete, typically the rear O2 sensor will have no effect on performance.

Check for exhaust leaks for sure. But even an exhaust leak should not result in back firing. You should NOT continue to drive your car in that condition. Check everything, double check everything and then do it all again.

Keep us posted.
Thanks.

My car ran fine the way it was forever all i did was swap header and dp and then my car started running like ****, i had no cat with zzp downpipe and i have no cat now. only thing different is i have nowhere to plug the second o2 sensor . I have a interceptor and i threw 2 codes for the rear o2 so i doubt its a o2 sensor thats plugged in wrong because it would also throw a code for the front o2.
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 10:29 PM
  #693  
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Originally Posted by Projekt
awesome thanks alot for the advice dan, ill make sure to place my order ASAP

sorry to bother you again dan, can you pm me the price of the 1 5/8ths header-2.5 downpipe with and without the cat so i can send you the right amount of money tomorrow on pay pal,

and how many people are on with it so i know what kind of discount there is aswell, thanks again dan.

oh and shipping to canada? lol
No problem.

20 orders: 4 into 1 mid-length header with 3" down-pipe (NO cat converter) - $279.79
20 orders: 4 into 1 mid-length header with 3" down-pipe (WITH cat converter) - $403.46

Add $155.00 for ceramic coating.
Add $25.00 for velocity cone.

Shipping to Canada will be determined with your complete address. We ship via Fed Ex. To use USPS there is a service charge as it takes me an average of 1 1/2 hours to get there, wait in line to ship and return to the shop. I really can't stand the USPS. They have made it very difficult to ship large packages. Call us tomorrow and Beth can quote shipping via Fed Ex. I will be heading to the post office tomorror to ship a header/DP to Canada so I will have a ball park cost of shipping.

Thanks again.
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 10:31 PM
  #694  
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Originally Posted by ClearImageAuto Dan
No problem.

20 orders: 4 into 1 mid-length header with 3" down-pipe (NO cat converter) - $279.79
20 orders: 4 into 1 mid-length header with 3" down-pipe (WITH cat converter) - $403.46

Add $155.00 for ceramic coating.
Add $25.00 for velocity cone.

Shipping to Canada will be determined with your complete address. We ship via Fed Ex. To use USPS there is a service charge as it takes me an average of 1 1/2 hours to get there, wait in line to ship and return to the shop. I really can't stand the USPS. They have made it very difficult to ship large packages. Call us tomorrow and Beth can quote shipping via Fed Ex. I will be heading to the post office tomorror to ship a header/DP to Canada so I will have a ball park cost of shipping.

Thanks again.

awesome dan, thanks for all the help, i will call tomorrow, any time roughly?
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 10:34 PM
  #695  
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Originally Posted by Darkmanx
My car ran fine the way it was forever all i did was swap header and dp and then my car started running like ****, i had no cat with zzp downpipe and i have no cat now. only thing different is i have nowhere to plug the second o2 sensor . I have a interceptor and i threw 2 codes for the rear o2 so i doubt its a o2 sensor thats plugged in wrong because it would also throw a code for the front o2.
Hmmm? I honestly don't know why you are having a problem. The rear sensor is not suppose to be performance based. Rather it is suppose to communicate the presence and function of the catalytic converter. Weather it's plugged in or not shouldn't make a difference. Can anyone else share their experience thus far?

Darkmanx, have you had any performance tuning done yet? If not, do you plan to?
When you tightened the nuts, did you tighten from the inside and work outwards? This will insure the header flange is pulled flat to the head. Keep me posted.
Thanks.
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 10:34 PM
  #696  
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also is there a price difference with a 2.5 downpipe? because thats what i would be ordering.
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 10:40 PM
  #697  
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Originally Posted by Projekt
awesome dan, thanks for all the help, i will call tomorrow, any time roughly?
After 9 AM Pacific time.
Thanks.

Originally Posted by Projekt
also is there a price difference with a 2.5 downpipe? because thats what i would be ordering.
No difference. Bending is the same, flex section cost the same, tubing cost is almost identical, etc.

Last edited by ClearImageAuto Dan; Jul 30, 2008 at 10:45 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 10:40 PM
  #698  
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Originally Posted by ClearImageAuto Dan
After 9 AM Pacific time.
Thanks.



No difference. bending is the same, flex section cost the same, tubing cost is almost identical, etc.
ok awesome, ill call tomorrow to take care of everytihng.
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 10:55 PM
  #699  
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From: FL.. FT LAUDERDALE/MAIMI
Originally Posted by ClearImageAuto Dan
Hmmm? I honestly don't know why you are having a problem. The rear sensor is not suppose to be performance based. Rather it is suppose to communicate the presence and function of the catalytic converter. Weather it's plugged in or not shouldn't make a difference. Can anyone else share their experience thus far?

Darkmanx, have you had any performance tuning done yet? If not, do you plan to?
When you tightened the nuts, did you tighten from the inside and work outwards? This will insure the header flange is pulled flat to the head. Keep me posted.
Thanks.
I didnt do the install at home a shop did it , i was watching tv. And yeah ive had tuning done , but like i said it only did it for like the first 20 minutes so im not sure what happend i turned the car off for 10 minutes and started driving again and it didnt happen and then i drove home and it didnt happen so who knows , but thats never happend before . I will check the bolts friday and load my stage 2 tune back on and see what happens.
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 11:12 PM
  #700  
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Originally Posted by Darkmanx
I didnt do the install at home a shop did it , i was watching tv. And yeah ive had tuning done , but like i said it only did it for like the first 20 minutes so im not sure what happend i turned the car off for 10 minutes and started driving again and it didnt happen and then i drove home and it didnt happen so who knows , but thats never happend before . I will check the bolts friday and load my stage 2 tune back on and see what happens.
Eh, considering LSJs are known for spazzing out every once in a while, I wouldn't be surprised if an errant plug had been slightly out of contact or something. Like Dan said, replacing a header should NOT cause anything like that, so I'm wondering if that shop unplugged something for the install and didn't plug something in firmly.

Just a thought, hope your car doesn't do that again yo.
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