They should look more like this:



This is what you are missing:

 

You dont need a sperical bearing. Poly bushings work just as well. Here is what we have developed.There is no need for a spherical bearing in this type of application.



We measured the amount that is needed to keep the weight and side load from stressing the internals of the shock. Using a spherical bearing is not NECESSARY, its nice to have but in no way needed.

Here is the top plate, there is a bushing on top as well. The hole in the center of the plates is bigger than the shaft itself so there is plenty of room for it to give. Spherical bearings are nice, but being much more expensive and not being able to rebuild them for $5 is not something I see as a plus.

 

Yeah apparently bearings are old school.....when you are dong it overkill style you just drill the hole in the mount a little bigger than the shaft and then put a rubber bush on the bottom of the mount plate
So again "overkill" becomes "just enough" I guess "OEM" sounds a lot better than "JEM"........but clearly the second is more appropriate.

 

If you understood,doing it either way is going to give the same outcome. Please understand what you are talking about before making comments like the previous one.

 

whoa there....thats some good business ownership there calling someone gay??


and you might want to take a few steps back before you tell maven to figure out what he is talking about...

 

Here are the pics of the bushings on top. I know they are bad photos, but they should show you that there are bushings on both sides of the mount for the correct amount of camber needed around turns.





I did not call him gay I called his comment gay. Theres a difference. I will fix.

 

Really??? I need to understand that either way is gonna give same outcome???

You mean I need to do some measurements on the weight and side loads affects on the internals of the strut like you clai m to have???

You first claimed that the fronts had a bearing.....then you show with only a lower bushing but state that a top one is used, and immediately after show what you have "developed", a single bushing, and again post a pic of the strut sshaft solidly mounted to plate......and you have told me privately that the bushings you use are a unique durometer and "gives more than most poly bushings out there", so not only are you using a poly bushing in a mount with no give(a recipe for quick failure of the bushing) you are using a softer than normal piece which will likely cause even more rapid wear and poor location of the strut shaft.

I just feel that this product has a relatively large flaw, and furthermore since youve have at least once in the past changed the design of a product(for the worse) after people ordered them I felt it was very important we have a serious discussion of the merit of this product.

If my (valid) criticisms are going to hurt your vulnerable reputation then perhaps a "feeler" thread in the suspension forum of the largest Cobalt site on the web isnt the best place to test market a product that needs further refinement.


your not alone either....I express my concerns on virtually all products that come through this little area of CSS, if you look aroud youll see where Ive told th whole world how I think TTRs sway bar is too much for a daily driven car, and how I feel Eibach blew it big time and is going to ruin more cars handling than they help with their new sway bars...Youre actually in pretty elite company.

 

If you look at the pics you can see that the most recent one is with a bushing at the top. I just took those pics. the shaft is not solidly mounted to the top plate, its got give from the poly. The durometer used in this set-up is the correct durometer. I did call energy suspension on this one and with some help they were able to assist me. Also telling me that these bushings are the proper harness(durometer) for the application. The bushings in this application will not fail faster then the spherical bearing. They will last longer and will be much cheaper to replace one they do go bad. A spherical bearing of that sort would be in the range of 20-35$ each. That's up to $70 for both. In 5-10 years or however long they last you will be basically just throwing these mounts away for what you can buy new ones for. Or you can have poly which cost $10 to replace and can be done 7x more for the same cost.

 

Lets take a look at this, its your Jbody solid upper strut mount, what we see here is a pic of the lower portion, what the spring touches, and then youve got the silver upper part that bolts to the chassis....Lets just assume for a minute that your bushings really are an elegant solution, and are equal in function to a spherical bearing. The question now becomes what happens when the strut shaft moves during turning and suspension loading......its gonna contact the lower plate at one point at contact the upper plate at at a point 180* away from where it touches the lower plate....how did you account for this interaction?

 

I see where you are getting confused. The pics underneath the one where the bushings are are not 100% completed units. I was just showing how they look off the car.

 

How did you determine these things?

 

I am not confused...I want to know how you are going to keep a shaft that is going through holes in two plates properly located and from contacting the plates.

 

So you mean that the hole in the center, when the shocks moves back and forth, what happens when its maxed out inside the hole and actually come in contact with a portion of the bottom mount and the top mount? If that did happen, and I mean ever does, the bushings are sort of pressed in the plate so the bushing would probably collapse until the unit comes back to a more stable position. Now this is a proto pic. The new ones are enlarged by a bit for the shaft has more give both top and lower portions of the mount. There is enough movement for about 3-4* of camber movement. I doubt you will ever be able to produce that on the track.

 

Yes thats exactly what I am talking about......I dont see any way that the bushng could be "sort of pressed in the plate" or how the bushing could possibly be expected to protect the shaft from the mounting plates.

 

There are 1/8 tabs that come off the bushing to center it in the plate. Hard to see in my bad pictures.

Here are the bushings. This should show the thickness of the bushing and the shaft thickness.

 

Okay I am done(maybe), my opinion has been expressed clearly. I think everyone except OEM knows what I am trying to say, let me just leave you with this....These are what you want

 

^^^ That would be the ultimate setup.

 

that is ******* sick looking....
its just so raw...

 

Yeah , its a race car....its supposed to be badass

 

lol...i would love that kind of set-up....i just have adjustable pillowball mounts...

 

Imagine. Good looking car in build with nice top plate 200 bucks from Ground Control? a far cry from what DOHCV6 is promoting whatever it is this poly trick duromoter whatever bush top strut part it is junque it will break; if by chance it doesn't, it would crack the top of the strut tower. Epic fail.

wow! the ultimate set-up! The guys who built that car must really know what they are doing

 

ultimate LOL

 

I bet those ground control guys do one for scions isnt that a californication kinda car? well they only have one for a Mr. Two isnt the scion a toyota car deal
http://www.ground-control-store.com/...ory.php/CA=194

I lied the ground control thing is 399 for a pair of them:
http://www.ground-control-store.com/...gory.php/CA=88

I am told that caster is improved by cutting away part of the scuttle and ovalizing the strut tower hole and shoving that top mount waaaay back....so i have read on the internet....

 

Well at least ground control knows J.K. Nice work guys.

 

Coilover Conversion kit, 03' Toyota Scion Xb / Xa
coil-over kit, includes Ground Control Springs mfg. by Eibach
$419.00


is this what you have an Xb/Xa


I am dumb you have a tc thats a sedan right, the Xb must be the UPS version i tell you the ground control folks make some pretty sick looking stuff that would be hard to make in house for 4 x the money