You mean Maven's?

 

Fixed, sorry.

 

ugh...

my opinion is that if use the spherical bearing in the setup above that you will not have many problems...

 

Cool. I guess its a go then.

 

Will you be marking the TRUE ACTUALY degree of camber on those plates? Doing the math and geomotry of the suspension, so there is no guess work? And not have just "dashes"

 

qft!!!!!!!!!1

 

well true marks would be a little pointless seeing how camber is based on more than the top mount....they should solely be there for reference....you figure out which one is 0 and so forth...

 

Thanks!

Reason we ask is Ground Control and many other places offer it, so I would think it could be achieved:



BTW... Are the 3 slotted holes (front to back) to have adjustable caster? Assuming that is what this would be for?

 

They really are really there for reference. I will see what I can do.

 

correct....they offer those to mean that this mark is -1* from your baseline, - 2*, etc...

you have to set your baseline and then use those....say you set it to 0 then those would literally be -1 -2 -2.5...

but if you baseline at -1 then those are -1 past -1, -2 past -1, -2.5 past -1...

 

As you probably know. To translate the dimension to a numerical value you would need to know the exact dimensions of the suspension. If you think of the suspension as a triangle with tha angle of reference coming from the camber plate, you will need to know the length of the adjacent (A), the distance traveled of the opposite (O) to accurately depict the angle of the translational movement. This can be done with the law of sin. Adjacent / Opposite = inverse sine angle. The reason they are able to do this is they are offering it with the strut and spring setup so it work for their application.

For our plates they will be for reference beacuse they will work with many different coil over and no coilover setups.
This is possible but would take someone putting these on their car. Measuring their suspension dimensions and relating this back so we can calculate what each notch represents as angular dimensions. Not hard but very time consuming and not necessary the majority of street tuners.

Any by the way, adding caster adjustment is very difficult with the bottom up design. It can be done but require more visability cut-throughs to see the movement. Let me tinker with that one...

Here is caster movement. Is this ideal? Probably another $35 for caster movement.

 

Okay, heres my opinion, the solid mounts, even with spherical bearings are pointless. Just because steel is stronger than rubber isnt a real reason to upgrade, there would be so little benefit from fixed solid mounts that it wouldnt be worth it to take out your struts to install them.

The camber plate/spherical bearing ones make a little more sense. However if you asked around I dont think youd find many guys complaining about need more camber. Using stock bolts with the splines filed off or one of the already available "alignment kit" bolts, its pretty simple to get enough camber. Not a FAIL, but still not needed.

If you turn your camber plate 90*, it becomes a caster plate......this is something that raced or aggresively driven Cobalt needs imo. It would be nice to be able to get 4.5-6* of caster without resorting to modifying factory parts or your chassis. This would be a clean elegant solution if done well.

The Camber/caster plate(while I am sure most people would wnat this of the products youve come up with) would need further revision from your current design. As it sits nowyour plate would mount under the strut tower just like stock and it would require a nut/bolt be used to secure plate, meaning youd have to get your hand and a tool up in the strut tower AND under the hood at the same time to adjust caster. It cant go on the top in its current state because its flat, the top of the tower is flared where the stock mount goes. Design a way around these flaws, use a spherical bearing, and you may yet have a product some people will want.

 

By the way, the ground control plates do yield and bend, but dont break made of T6071 and very thick....so until anyone can tell me /show me better stock top mounts are most practical for street cars....

 

Curious as to what T6071 is? Never heard of that material before, in all my metallurgy background...

Or do you mean T6 - 6061, aluminum?

 

I am sure that he ment to put 6061, no big deal. But this was a feeler thread. I wanted to know what your opinions were and so far it sounds as if the stock set-up is what most of you considerd to be the best, even though it has massive amounts of play.

What I dont understand is why you guys don't see the benefit? If you look at the rest of the suspension on the car, even the engine mounts. They are all filled with rubber, not poly. So changing you stock strut mount from rubber to a solid camber plate with a poly isolater will have some of the same effects as changing any other part of the syspension system. This will also allow you to regain the correct camber/ caster when lowering the car. Instead of notching your lower struts.

 

yes it was a typo the 6 is to the left of 7, and dohc knew that. but 6000 series alloys go to 6070 but with your metallurgy background you would know that

 

Off Topic:
Actually you mean 6463 is the highest the 6000 series goes to...

6063 is the easiest to extrude (compared to 6061)

6463 is similar to 6063, however 6463 has a better response to "finishing/polishing" (used when you want a "chrome" apperance)

 

And for something like a strut mount that lives underhood and has a sliding interface some 4032 might actually be ideal due to its very high corrosion resistance even without anodizing, and its ability to serve as a direct replacement for steel(mainly due to its abrasion resistance which is actually >/= 12L14 steel..........

Thats not really the issue here though is it, because as it stands right now these are made from particle board

 

nope 6070 check the tables buddy

 

subscribed.

 

Actually I believe 6463s main advantage over 6063(which it is essentially the same as) is that it responds better to chemical polishing/surface treatments, not physical polishing to a high luster.

 

we're a tough knowledgeable crowd apparently, haha.

 

Go get an updated book, 6463 is the highest numbered 6000 series aluminum...

That is right on the money! 100% Maven. That is what we stated.

 

Click...

 

probably why I dislike you intensely Aaron is that you continue to be a jackass when i said it was a typo, and try to display your self appointed awesomeness in metallurgy; So check this out from the bike forums. "The 3rd and 4th digits are arbitrary numbers given to identify a specific alloy in the series." Surely an expert like yourself would have known that. In the meantime it was a TYPO Aaron.

For the rest of us who are interested in learning, here the bike forum continues:

If my memory serves me well, in materials engineering, the first digit indicates the principal alloying element, which has been added to the aluminum alloy and is often used to describe the aluminum alloy series, i.e., 1000 series, 2000 series, 3000 series, up to 8000 series
The second single digit, if different from 0, indicates a modification of the specific alloy, and the third and fourth digits are arbitrary numbers given to identify a specific alloy in the series.

1= 99% Al (almost pure Al)
2= Copper
3= manganese
4= Silicon
5= Magnesium
6= Magnesium & Silicon
7= Zinc
8= others

Sometimes manufacturers also give out temper designations... ie t6, 6000-t4, etc.
The different series of aluminum alloys have considerable differences in their characteristics and consequent application. There are two general types, the heat treated and non-heat treatable type.
The 1xxx, 3xxx, and 5xxx series wrought aluminum alloys are non-heat treatable and are strain hardenable only. The 2xxx, 6xxx, and 7xxx series wrought aluminum alloys are heat treatable and the 4xxx series consist of both heat treatable and non-heat treatable alloys.The heat treatable alloys acquire their optimum mechanical properties through a process of thermal treatment, the most common thermal treatments being Solution Heat Treatment and Artificial Aging. Aging is the precipitation of a portion of the elements or compounds from a supersaturated solution in order to yield desirable properties.
The non-heat treatable alloys acquire their optimum mechanical properties through Strain Hardening. Strain hardening is the method of increasing strength through the application of cold working.T6, 6063-T4, 5052-H32, 5083-H112.