Koni shocks and struts. Info and how to adjust
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From: Northern Virginia
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I have the same problem as an earlier post. After putting in Koni's and Pedders all around, my car is way loud going over bumps, etc. The rear is squeaky sounding. I didn't even notice that until I was on a road trip and a friend was driving while I was in the back. Not sure what is going on. I plan on taking things out soon to see if I can't figure out the problem. I did the install myself so I hope I didn't mess something up.
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Maybe I'll have to take everything off and give it a look. Things just seem really rough and really loud.
A quick question about endlinks, though. I'm in a 2.4L auto and the stock endlinks are the longer type. Should I have installed shorter endlinks after the pedders/koni install?
A quick question about endlinks, though. I'm in a 2.4L auto and the stock endlinks are the longer type. Should I have installed shorter endlinks after the pedders/koni install?
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Actually with pedders you need the shorter links. Test by disconnecting one and driving. If the noise is gone,you know what the deal is. The other thing is that you need to make sure the bottom Allen bolt is tight. It will loosen if you don't tighten it down pretty hard. If that happens you will get big clunks going over bumps.
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I generally just leave it. Soft in front, stiffer in back is a good combination to create rotation. If you stiffen the front too much, you might lose traction, causing it to understeer.
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So I took one sway bar link off as suggested and drove around.. WAY better! So bought the new endlinks while I was out. Just finished installing them. Thanks for the info. I thought I was just gonna be stuck with the noise. The ride is much, much smoother as well. Thanks again!
Finally set my rears to 50%, they've been at 25% since I've owned them. I'm on yyzs and I definitely felt some skipping out back with the fronts on full soft. Need to try again when its above 40 degrees out, I just kinda understeered all day today
I meticulously matched them at 50% each. Today's much warmer and the tires are happier. I feel of course a bit more highway stability now, haven't gotten a chance to re thrash them yet. So today so far so good
If you're willing to go all konis then you should change your sportlines too. That's just a lowering spring that's almost totally dead coils in the back. Not a performance option
I ran Konis with sportlines on my LT, they're better than running Sportlines with stock shocks for sure. For sure recommend getting better springs at some point though. Need to send my rear Konis in for R&R, adjusters broke at some point. Then I need to purchase a pair of front Konis. Soon to be equipped with Pedders and a PRP Hardcore bar.
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Maybe someone will make this a sticky. I get a question about this every few weeks. Thought I would share in a dedicated thread.
First, are they any good? Yes! They are better than FE5, especially the rears. If you lower your car or you put on an added rear sway bar, you need to add Koni yellows. It will make a tremendous difference. The stock FE5 are fine if you stay with stock springs and no added sway bar, but once you start changing those, you quickly run out of enough rebound damping.
Why do you care about increased low speed rebound damping? Because it helps control the "slow" body motions involved when doing things like turning, or keeping the car from having that slow undulating feeling from side to side.
Should you get the front strut inserts? They are an upgrade, but not a must, like the rears. I would strongly urge that you replace all 4 at the same time, but I understand some people run on tight budgets. If you want the best, soon John Powell will be coming out with some revalved front Koni inserts. Yes, the install is tougher, but it's worth it. My advice for the install would be to get a cheap pipe cutter, and drill the end of the strut, drain all oil, then cut the strut with the pipe cutter, AT THE APPROPRIATE LENGTH!
So, how and where do you set the damper settings? The fronts are quite easy. Just use the included knob, and turn them. The knob tells you which way is soft and which way is harder. I recommend about 1/3 turn away from full soft for typical street springs. Do not be tempted to run them full stiff. If you do, the car will feel awful as it jacks down to the bump stops, because the springs aren't strong enough.
The rears are a little harder. They must be adjusted off the car. Compress them against a piece of wood, all the way down. The wider part of the shock should be on top. Making sure that they stay compressed, turn it all the way counter clockwise. It should stop. This is full soft. Turn it 1/4 turn clockwise, and that is a good street setting with typical street springs. Anything about 1/2 turn from full soft will result in jack down, and an awful ride.
Here is Koni's official document on adjusting the rears, which are 8040:
Koni North America - ITT - Adjustment
I personally do not change my shock settings when I go to the track. You could add a little more rear rebound if you like, but I find that somewhere between 1/4 to 1/2 off full soft is good for both street and track.
First, are they any good? Yes! They are better than FE5, especially the rears. If you lower your car or you put on an added rear sway bar, you need to add Koni yellows. It will make a tremendous difference. The stock FE5 are fine if you stay with stock springs and no added sway bar, but once you start changing those, you quickly run out of enough rebound damping.
Why do you care about increased low speed rebound damping? Because it helps control the "slow" body motions involved when doing things like turning, or keeping the car from having that slow undulating feeling from side to side.
Should you get the front strut inserts? They are an upgrade, but not a must, like the rears. I would strongly urge that you replace all 4 at the same time, but I understand some people run on tight budgets. If you want the best, soon John Powell will be coming out with some revalved front Koni inserts. Yes, the install is tougher, but it's worth it. My advice for the install would be to get a cheap pipe cutter, and drill the end of the strut, drain all oil, then cut the strut with the pipe cutter, AT THE APPROPRIATE LENGTH!
So, how and where do you set the damper settings? The fronts are quite easy. Just use the included knob, and turn them. The knob tells you which way is soft and which way is harder. I recommend about 1/3 turn away from full soft for typical street springs. Do not be tempted to run them full stiff. If you do, the car will feel awful as it jacks down to the bump stops, because the springs aren't strong enough.
The rears are a little harder. They must be adjusted off the car. Compress them against a piece of wood, all the way down. The wider part of the shock should be on top. Making sure that they stay compressed, turn it all the way counter clockwise. It should stop. This is full soft. Turn it 1/4 turn clockwise, and that is a good street setting with typical street springs. Anything about 1/2 turn from full soft will result in jack down, and an awful ride.
Here is Koni's official document on adjusting the rears, which are 8040:
Koni North America - ITT - Adjustment
I personally do not change my shock settings when I go to the track. You could add a little more rear rebound if you like, but I find that somewhere between 1/4 to 1/2 off full soft is good for both street and track.
nvm, my lazy ass read the whole thread!
Last edited by r1owner; Mar 6, 2013 at 08:46 PM.
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I run slightly stiffer with the YYZ. I posted somewhere. Don't recall off the top of my head.
As far as the adjustment, no it's a smooth. You'll feel the foot catch, and that's when you start tracking the location. No clicking though.
As far as the adjustment, no it's a smooth. You'll feel the foot catch, and that's when you start tracking the location. No clicking though.