YYZ springs
but the primary goal was not low. Hope folks understand that and are not disappoint.
These are so tempting, but I like the drop I current have not a smooth ride but I'm used to it, but I do want to start road racing or auto-x so the handling would be nice.
No but I can get them and direct you to good places... check in with wangspeed or 09calicobaltss (Mike) they know the drill. I have a very good place you can go to in California for the best with valving, but not cheep. email me I can direct you. Thanks for choosing Powell hardcore race parts.
Pedders after miles:
the thing I beleive is happening with these Pedders, is that they are low in linear rate and have short free length to acheive a drop. So small spring diameter, they get over stressed, become plastic and take a set; u can see where the rears are actually rusting where the coils hit. All the coils are binding at load. I will post ride height pictures later, but its clear they are low left side, as the tracks Loki goes to all turn predominantly clockwise.
and now: YYZ prototype
Now, this is Loki's car with Pedders. Later this week I can publish the same positions with YYZ. let u know
the thing I beleive is happening with these Pedders, is that they are low in linear rate and have short free length to acheive a drop. So small spring diameter, they get over stressed, become plastic and take a set; u can see where the rears are actually rusting where the coils hit. All the coils are binding at load. I will post ride height pictures later, but its clear they are low left side, as the tracks Loki goes to all turn predominantly clockwise.
and now: YYZ prototype
Now, this is Loki's car with Pedders. Later this week I can publish the same positions with YYZ. let u know
because thats the way the mounted easiest for me. Wangspeed did it the opposite, he is stronger than me....The spec of the coil end clearance is exactly per OEM BUT the spring wire is larger in diameter. I wanted to make it easier to install by keeping OEM spec, and didnt figure the wire diameter change. However the spring dont care which way the coils go. Its a spring. And as the coils unload in droop there is so much rate in progression, there is no danger of them ever falling out.
because thats the way the mounted easiest for me. Wangspeed did it the opposite, he is stronger than me....The spec of the coil end clearance is exactly per OEM BUT the spring wire is larger in diameter. I wanted to make it easier to install by keeping OEM spec, and didnt figure the wire diameter change. However the spring dont care which way the coils go. Its a spring. And as the coils unload in droop there is so much rate in progression, there is no danger of them ever falling out.
Mine came today! I just really wanted to thank John for not only the springs but getting them to me so fast so I can get a couple autox's on these this season. Really appreciate it man! Love the color too. These will be going on my car tomorrow with the fairly new ss/tc FE5 suspension, so I'll post a review of the ride then and a review from the autox on Sunday.
A few tips. Make sure the tab for the front spring hat is either pointed inwards, towards the engine, or lines up with the end of the spring. I haven't decided which is best. John uses the end of the spring.
The rear will require you to whittle down the plastic so that you can fit the bumpstop into the spring. The spring wire diameter is bigger than stock, so it's a tight fit. I don't think you're gonna do it with some lube alone. It's easier to just use a razor or knife and whittle.
The rear will require you to whittle down the plastic so that you can fit the bumpstop into the spring. The spring wire diameter is bigger than stock, so it's a tight fit. I don't think you're gonna do it with some lube alone. It's easier to just use a razor or knife and whittle.
Awesome, thanks for the info wang. What exactly do you mean by whittle? I was thinking if I needed to I could file it down a little all around. With the top and bottom hats on the rear spring was it a pain getting it to fit in the perch?
A few tips. Make sure the tab for the front spring hat is either pointed inwards, towards the engine, or lines up with the end of the spring. I haven't decided which is best. John uses the end of the spring.
The rear will require you to whittle down the plastic so that you can fit the bumpstop into the spring. The spring wire diameter is bigger than stock, so it's a tight fit. I don't think you're gonna do it with some lube alone. It's easier to just use a razor or knife and whittle.
The rear will require you to whittle down the plastic so that you can fit the bumpstop into the spring. The spring wire diameter is bigger than stock, so it's a tight fit. I don't think you're gonna do it with some lube alone. It's easier to just use a razor or knife and whittle.
Other than that, Wangspeed is always 100% on everything.
PS I used to do that, grind and whittle the damn things. Blazin06SS (Josh Rodriquez) gave me the heat gun trick, it works ossum....
could be T3 springs which are simply hopeless to drive everywhere. Kinda like Linear coil over springs. Trolling the YYZ thread.
and btw, with no preload at the rear, the coil overs out there produce the bounciest coil over u ever seen/felt.
I did an analysis on a Honda Civic, for HSD the other day. 1.5 inches of total rear wheel travel. 1/2 an inch of rebound travel
but the stance is good.
car is horrible to drive.
and btw, with no preload at the rear, the coil overs out there produce the bounciest coil over u ever seen/felt.
I did an analysis on a Honda Civic, for HSD the other day. 1.5 inches of total rear wheel travel. 1/2 an inch of rebound travel
but the stance is good.
car is horrible to drive.
