if you are going to do it your self.... contact quickredline he is a guru, and recommends switching to the HHR electric get up for durability if you are going to do any racing.... iirc he said the stock and recall piece will fail under race conditions

 

One bit to add, about going to the dealer or any place for service, is I let them know what that car means to me, by nothing more than saying let me cover the seat before you get in (I keep a small blanket in the trunk). That normally starts the conversation of "you really take care of this car". I say YES I then say take your time, I'm in no rush. Since I've been doing that, they always give me the guy who cares a little more, most likely because they know I'll spot it if somethings not right, and they would rather not deal with it.

 

This is my temporary steering motor until I can get some stronger springs for the brushes. So this is a wrecking yard motor and controller that I took apart to get an idea as to the spring size. As you can see, this motor has four brushes. The spring tension against the brushes is very weak. I was really surprised as there should be more than 2.5 psi spring pressure. I would say that 5 psi would be optimum.

At least the spring tension is even; all the brushes has the same amount of wear.

I will rebuild the original motor as use this one as a spare. Hell, it only takes 5 minutes to replace.....

 

I had mine done - it was free, why not , and while I follow your concerns, I am willing to let the dealers work on mine while under waranty.

If I am paying, not so much.

Anyway, one thing that has not been pointed out is that a lot of us that have had the motor changed think the replacement has a slightly easier feel to it than the old one did.

I know they specced in a different motor for the SS's, so if you fix your old one you won't experience that.

I am also surprised that it was that difficult to turn when it went out - I have lost hydraulic power steering before, and while a grunter in terms of effort, I did not think of it as a white knuckled, life threatening event, either.

Let us know how it al lworks out !


Britt

 

The Cobalt uses a "manual" steering rack with electric assist. When the electric assist stops working, not only do you now have "manual" steering, but you have to fight against the worm-gear transmission and the motor itself. Think of it as "double-manual" steering, so double the effort.

Well the used steering motor is in and I am back on the road!! Success! Works like a charm.

I am still researching if GM is now using a revised steering motor. Not too much info out there. If it is true that the HHR SS has a "stronger" motor, I would certainly like to see some documentation.

Old Veteran Car Dude

 

You are the man, Old Dude.