Gentlemen

I use my 08 sstc for open road racing. I raced at Big Bend in April where I spent most of the 118 mile course at 120 mph. My car is stone stock and has proven to be very reliable. I have raced a 2003 Evo 8 and a 2006 GTO during past years. The Cobalt is a bargain racer. I just purchased a superchips cortex and intend to race the new tune. My next race is the first week of August at the Sandhills Open Road Challenge. That race is 55 miles long. I hope the air/fuel ratio stays consistent at prolonged high RPM.

Open Road Racer

 

Good deal, I want to see some numbers, after I get settled in AZ, I will be heading to laguna seca for some fun and times.

 

Good deal, I want to see some numbers, after I get settled in AZ, I will be heading to laguna seca for some fun and times.

 

That Sandhills race looks fun as hell: http://www.sorcrace.com/index.html

 

gentlemen

The Sandhills Open road Challenge is sold out for August but I hope more SSTC's will get into Open Road Racing. where this car really shines. Look to sign up for next year. My Evo was modded to 420 at the wheels, full cage, bigger turbo, injectors, autotronic, bigger intercooler, etc, etc. I actually like the SSTC better. Unbelievable bargain. The only thing that has gone wrong is I had to replace the front rotors at 2,000 miles. Since then no problems. I like the superchips tune because it gives a boost while still being conservative enough to use. I want to finish every race I start. In every Open Road Race about 5-10 percent of all cars drop out due to mechanical failure.

ORR

 

What do you guys think about running the superchips tune on top of the Stage 1 kit coming out? Anyone heard from the HHR SS guys about getting antyhing extra over GM Stage 1 w/ the superchips?

 

i can almost guarantee it wont work .. it wont be setup for the 3 bar map

 

It will run, just not like its supposed to. I would not risk it unless SC's releases a stage one tune with the corrected maps.

 

No way it will work. The OS is different after GM reflashes the ECM for the new sensors.

 

if this damn gm kit doesnt come out by july 1 im sayin **** them an gettin this sc it looks to be about what im lookin for

 

this is correct.. as per vince said...


" it looks like they just included the 3 bar sensors so you couldnt just get someone to rip it off a car with hptuners then copy it for other cars"

the stock turbo is out of range in a 3 bar setup

 

Just got mine today. Install was easy and fast and boy what a difference.

 

Hey man, give some examples of how you feel it is better.

Thanks in advance.

 

Torque, torque, torque. Boost comes on strong but smooth and peaks at 20-21 psi. The whole car feels alive now. 1-4 gears pull much stronger. All in all the best $350 i've spent! oh and mileage is still the same.

 

Wow. You guys are lucky to have access to a nice flash that takes a few minutes. With the BMW it's 45 minutes and you have to have a very capable power supply or you will brick the ECU.

 

45 mins wow!

 

Yep, plus no handheld to do it yourself. Only a few options. Dinan authorized dealers/shops, and a few others that are only doing local installs, or mail in your ECU.

It sucks! The piggy-back I am running, is the first I have seen to get full access to the CanBus network and have access to over 200 variables. I can load a new map on that in a minute via a laptop, there are some user adjustable tables, maps for different bolt-on combos, and hope to use it as a meth controller as well, that will flip back to a stock map if there is any flow problem.

I'm digging the cobalts. I want to find another Forced Induction car, that has 4 doors, and I can play with tuning and mods. Cobalt seems like a fun platform.

 

ok, i've decided I am NOT waiting on the GM kit, screw it... i'm going to go this route, i'm tired of putting my other mods aside waiting on the damn kit, what kind of numbers are guys seeing with these? 275-280whp? that is all i'm looking for, with a full exhaust, IC piping, and a CAI, that'd be around 300whp, i'd be happy with that

 

Dyno sheets are posted if you sift through, I am the only one who dyno'd so far. I put down 281WHP/307Ftlbs on a dynojet in 95 degree weather. All I have is the hahn CAI, and muffler delete

 

so in healthier conditions, you might would see 285-290whp, which on a mustang dyno would be around 270-275, that I can live with, with full bolt-ons around 300whp should be possible(on a mustang, a dyno jet would probably have it at a higher hp, they tend to read higher)...

 

dont use a mustang dyno if you can avoid it. 290 is possible in good conditions stock + tune. I have not seen what it can do on a stock air box because I don't want to take my intake out.

 

hahaha ok so you like inflated numbers? goto a mustang so you know where you really stand..

 

No I like accurate numbers. Mustang dyno's are crap. Dynojets are known to produce the most accurate numbers. Mustang dyno's are also the cheapest too. There is a reason why people have to convert mustang dyno numbers to dynojet numbers. Because they are low.

 

no mustang numbers are more accurate.. the reason mustang dynos are converted is because alot of people use dynojets.. so they want to be put on the same playing field..

mustang dynos are load based dynos.. so they give you numbers accurate to how the car performs on the road

 

If you looked at the pics, you would see I was on a dynojet 248x. Its inertial based. (The load base is pretty close to what a road base would be.) Lower numbers doesnt always mean more accurate, and higher numbers don't mean they are inflated. They just have different conversion factors and measurements.

I have dyno'd my past cars on a mustang dyno, and then on a dynojet before, only a 1-2% difference with a proper operator on a mustang dyno. Another problem I have with the mustang dyno, is that they can control the numbers from simple machine operation, by changing the load.