2.0L LNF Performance Tech 260hp and 260 lb-ft of torque Turbocharged tuner version.

2010 Cobalt SS/TC Stage 1 test drive!

Old Aug 25, 2009 | 11:32 AM
  #276  
umrdyldo's Avatar
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we jack threads while we wait for more info.

Well the LSJ guys were running IAT2s of 180+
If you compress air that hot then yeah it's going to be hot as hell upon combustion.

A large intercooler such as my Crazy Steve intercooler has been shown to only allow IAT2s that are 10-15 degrees above ambient so with the LNF we don't have this issue.
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Old Aug 25, 2009 | 12:31 PM
  #277  
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Originally Posted by northvibe
because the IC can drop temps after the turbo even lower. remember you want that Z (low temp air). Problem is you get these rice racers that think the biggest IC is the best...and well thats just inefficient.
Riight! The big IC's are not inefficient because of their ability to COOL but their ability to PASS AIR (flow). But on an engine, without BIG engine modifications it's a waste of time and money.

I never did pass algebra. So why is so much emphasis put on intercoolers? Every forced induction I know of uses an IC.

So to make it easier for myself. Cooler, more dense air goes into the turbo at atmospheric pressure. Hot, something more than atmospheric pressure (reducing the turbos ability to compress air), less dense air out of the turbo reducing the turbos ability to compress air through the inlet tract into the IC. Through the IC which cools the hot air coming in making the air more dense and lowering the temperature out creating a temperature and pressure differential across the IC. Hot, less dense IN, cooler more dense air out, effectively reducing pressure through the inlet tract allowing the hot air out of the turbo to move more freely to the IC causing a pressure differential at the turbo between the inlet (cold, dense, atmospheric pressure) and the outlet (hot, less dense, more than atmospheric pressure), effectively allowing cooler, more dense air to flow into and through the turbo and continuing the cycle while all the while increasing the density or the air into the engine which allows more fuel to be fed also ahich makes a bigger BOOM AND allows the charge to flow through the engine more quickly allowing higher RPM (with the proper modifications).

My whole theory might blow, pun intended, but that's the way I see it.
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2009 Cobalt SS/TC Sport Red Tint Coat, LSD,
CIA catted downpipe, CIA boost tubing,
CIA CAI soon (I hope), TMW Performance shifter,
K&N filter (for now), Upgrade parts in hand,
waiting for the calibration,

Last edited by buellfooll; Aug 25, 2009 at 12:31 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Aug 25, 2009 | 06:38 PM
  #278  
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From: Grosse Pointe Woods, MI
You guys are famous:

http://www.gmtunersource.com/index.p...ive-a-ride-day
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Old Aug 25, 2009 | 07:13 PM
  #279  
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From: Michigan
Originally Posted by More_Torque_More_HP
NIce write up! People will be satisfied with this kit when installed!
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Old Aug 25, 2009 | 07:42 PM
  #280  
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BILL DUNCAN
You da man!!!!!
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Old Aug 25, 2009 | 10:46 PM
  #281  
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cool I'm a pro pikta taker
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Old Aug 25, 2009 | 10:55 PM
  #282  
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So i was thinking.

if you drive 15k a year you would save a lot of money compared to what the kit costs.

15,000 / 24mpg = 625 gallons X $2.50 = $1,562 a year gas
15,000 / 25.5mpg = 588 gallons X $2.50 = $1,470 a year in gas

So I would save almost $100 a year. Doesn't sound like much but will cover half of the kit cost over the next couple of years.
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Old Aug 26, 2009 | 12:09 AM
  #283  
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From: Western NY
Originally Posted by SuperchargedSS
Exactly why I will be going with a SRI and will never drop another filter into the wheel well of a cobalt without extensive waterproof modifications. In my climate it's just not possible. And I hear you about all the stones and road dust etc. I picked a dead toad out of mine once. You can fab a louver etc pretty easy but next time you look in there check the inside of your wheel well where the filter is, you will see evidence of water getting splashed right on the maf. Not good.

You may have the same improper installation as mine. Hard to explain but the engine side of the wheel well wasnt fastened to the car, it was kind of fastened to itself, with a screw through it with a nut on the other side, as opposed to being on the other side of the frame which would bring both pieces together forming a snug fit. Instead it was a water scoop. These are the minor things that gm takes a lot of flak over... lack of refinement etc... It would be sooooo easy to fox this during the design..
I should have said i was talking about my old SS/SC. But I'm pretty sure it wasn't installed right . The front piece of the wheel well actually hung down from the center piece creating basically a water slide running down the inside right to the filter . I'm gunna leave the intake alone on the TC just so i don't have to worry about it.

Originally Posted by 1BADSS/SC
^this is exactly what happened to my MAF. Everytime I busted ope tne wheelwell to check on the CAI more road dirt and grime was all over my CAI than last I checked/cleaned it.
I used to see stains where the water would actually follow the intake tube down over the MAF then puddle on top of the filter and in the bottom of the fender well lol.
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