I'm about to go out and get the spark plugs to see if this will make it run any better. I just find it hard to believe it would be just the tune because it ran fine for months, only had little twerks. Where it'd go limp from a random CEL that would clear or it would cut out on me after the turbo blew off. She's got 93 almost 94k on her so these spark plugs can only help lol.

 

Ya Id say this is your turbo

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l...-465hp-295775/

looks like a good turbo. Those weld seems on that Dejon intake and CP look like the ones on your up pipe so I guess that was Retail quality...

 

this is very possible... I'll have to try to squeeze my head up there and get a better comparison of that U-pipe sometime today...

 

Damn good detective work Cuda.

OP do the plugs and perform a boost leak test, and if your friend can give ya the hook up have him do a leak down just for engine health. Also ZZP makes a maf relocate cold side charge pipe but again it requires a re-tune.

 

decent turbo? I'd love to see 350 to the wheels out of this thing but only if it'd be reliable. haha, I need to stop getting ahead of myself...problems first...upgrades later.

edit: indeed good detective work; I appreciate all this help man truly. Standard engines are pretty easy to me, throw these turbo variables and I feel like I'm braindead.

know anybody else with a similar build? If this is truly what it is I'm still gonna look at upgrading from the dejon **** if at all possible? I'm just awaiting on a reply from trifecta about if they have a tune on file at all for this thing. if not I'm just gonna buy the tune if I can find a used cable for sale or someone local that has one.

 

Do a boost leak test first. make sure the system doesnt leak air otherwise you'll be tuning in an issue which doesnt work. plugs and the boost leak test are a good start.

 

If you missed it, this photo shows a good shot of the up-pipe. It is custom and it looks like it aligns with the Downpipe so that means your downpipe is either factory or factory fit. Those welds look identical.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/47374509@N03/4342403041/

 

You can make your own boost leak test correct? how's it done, hooking the contraption to the turbo then pumping 15 lbs of pressure into it? you don't gotta cap anything?

 

Yeah there's plenty of instructions out there on the internet and in this forum. You hook it up to the charge piping thats connected to the turbo compressor outlet.

You basically use pcv pipe with a fitting for a air compressor to connect to and turn on the air compressor. Then you sray soapy water on the charge piping, intercooler, brake booster, intake manifold, etc. thats it. Goes without saying but you look for bubbles, much like a tire shop will throw a wheel into a kiddie pool to find the leak if you get a flat tire and dont see any nails or screws and such.

 

dang you're quick today haha, all I needed to know. thanks.

 

I wake up at 5am and get to work just before 6am. I drink my coffee and search the web until I wake up fully around 7am, then I do alot of paper work and managing. Theres alot of down time along the day between following chemical preps and managing experiements as well as doing a few of my own. The life of a biochemist.

 

Well, changed plugs, took car for a short (2 mile) drive and did a light pull, still can't push past 6-7 lbs of boost. It's definately more responsive, definately smells like its burning cleaner. Think the car could be running in limp until this CEL clears? I don't generally like to just disconnect and reconnect my battery, I've got the worst luck with stripping the damned terminals. Also found the first section of the charge pipe had a loose clamp, don't know if it could've been a possible leak but it definately looks like **** was getting blown onto the top of my engine, underside of all my charge pipes were dirty as ****, tops were very clean, around my coils had build up as well. Wasn't like sitting oil. Anyways, ever sence I messed with my cai it's got an annoying rumble noise coming from up there, gotta reposition that after I get some sleep to see if it's what's coming from.

Here's what my spark plugs looked like:

 

Spark plugs look good. reset the battery to remove the CEL. Your car should be in limp mode with the CEL you have. Although I dont think you should be able to hit 6 or 7 psi in limp mode.

 

Alright I'll give it a shot, this has been picking my brain so much these past 2 days to the point its hard to sleep anyways, although that doesn't say much for an insomniac.

 

Didn't even have to test drive it to know something's up. Disconnected the battery for 30 seconds, adjusted the intake slightly, pulling it out maybe 1/8 an inch. When i started it it wouldn't start, just kept trying to crank, I removed key from ignition, 2nd try fired up but then started gurgling, sputting and was like pulsing in the vac between 10-20 psi. Let it sit idle for 2 minutes or so and it settled into a normal run, turned her off, and back on again, started fine but still did the gurgling and sputtering for like 30 seconds until it settled. Reved the RPMS up and its popping and back firing. No CEL yet but I didn't even wanna risk driving it. Car settled fine even when it was sputtering when ever you added some throttle. Weird, alls I did was mess with the battery. Intakes on there tight. Hmmmm... also heard a whining noise that continued after a rev; even after the engine was killed. Kept making a beeping noise as well. Mean anything??

 

maybe your running rich>? boost leak could be the answer to all of this.

 

It does, has since i got it.

 

You got to do that boost leak test. It'd be great if you had something that can read fueltrims and AFR and such as well.

 

I don't personally, my dad has a nice snap on scanner but doesn't have the keys/cartridge to do cars this new, sadly. Boost test is going to have to wait until this week end, gotta get some extra hours in at work incase this is gonna cost some coin.. I let it run, it only seems to gurgle and sputter at an idle, as soon as it hits like 13-1400 rpms the vac hits 20 and the engine tries to settle itself, only to lose the vac back to 10 again. When it hits idle is like hiccups and draws a huge gulp of air (can hear it pulling through the intake) then repeats the process. I couldn't stand hearing it run like that nor did I wanna risk doing any damage so I turned it off after a minute or two. It's just so weird that it's doing this now that the battery was pulled, it has to be something to do with the CEL. Re-adjusted the intake again and no change. I still have heard nothing from trifecta... kinda dissapointed in that...

 

Def seems like you have a leak somewhere. Have you checked out the BOV to makesure its functioning correctly? (I'm sure there is a manual online for it)

 

checked, no official manual but from other's experiences you just run the car, loosen until you can hear the air coming out of the BOV then tighten a turn. gonna see if i can find a PDF of the legit manual though.

 

Well was adjusting the bov, loosening it and the adjustment stud just popped out, stripped threads... Just my luck...

 

AHHHh theres the boost leak lol. Sorry that sucks. Maybe you just need a new BOV, well... definately need one now

 

Did some research, some people say to adjust the bov while the cars at idle, any confirmation on this? Gonna go pick up the BLT pieces and the bolt to fix the BOV.

 

*sigh* so it turns out its the BOV that's stripped not the bolt, found that out upon furth'er inspection... So now I'm scowering craigslist looking for a replacement... She's gotta go in to get that **** fixed from the deer accident tomorrow; so I'm running out of time. Any clarification about that adjusting it while its running? and also will I have to fully close my BOV to do the boost leak test? Havn't found any clarification on these two answers.