tomj77

iTrader: (2)

Only thing I'm scared of is the tob leaking. I put the spacer on it and had a little issue getting the rear seal off so I could move it to spacer , hope it's not damaged. My bell housing is leaking clutch fluid , but my bro in law opened bleeder to much and a lot of fluid ran into the housing via that plastic cover, so I'm hoping that's all that's leaking out. Super slow leak cause it's sealed to engine. Thinking of loosening 2 bottom bolts so it just all comes out. I'm just hoping that's all that's leaking out and it's not also tob. The fluid lever isn't going down at all even after pressing clutch a lot. So we shall see

Snail_SS

iTrader: (3)

Hopefully everything is fine

royce777

iTrader: (29)

Keep a eye on everything. I would loosen those two lower bell housing bolts and see what the fluid is. Cause if the rear seals leaks wouldn't it be tranny fluid and not brake fluid?

08VRSS

Bleeding the clutch was the first thing i did when the subframe went back in the car, just incase i had to take it back out. I lucked out. New SAAB TOB worked great, no spacer. I vacuum bled the master cylinder, no opening the bleeder valve necessary, I followed one of the vac bleeding procedures posted on this forum and it was perfect. Hope yours is ok.


Procedure i used twice now with no issues:

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/prob...-clutch-37697/

tomj77

iTrader: (2)

Trans fluid is red. This is clear clutch fluid.

tomj77

iTrader: (2)

I'm 95 percent sure it's just what came out when we were bleeding. I didn't realize he had the screw open so far cause it should have only taken 3 pumps on a primed tob. I'm sure we got half a resivour of fluid in the bell housing lol. I'll take bottom bolts out so it all drains. Cause it's been dripping non stop for 2 weeks , by dripping I mean super slow Like a drop every half hour. And the clutch is still good and fluid levels still good so it must be that.

theamericono

great build 10/10

tomj77

iTrader: (2)

omg u guys don't even know how pissed off I am right now. effing drivers side caliper, took like hour to get the one pin out, had to cut it in half, the pad was some how wedged in the caliper, took a fricken prybar and a wedge to get that out. then the remaining part of the pin didn't want to budge. finally when I get everything done, I see old crush washer cemented onto the caliper, yes the dirt turned into cement, well long story short, I tried to pry it out and made a nice big chip where the banjo goes so the new washer will not be able to seal it. so effing 280$ Canadian for a new effing caliper. eff that bullshit. I need to go cool down.

Snail_SS

iTrader: (3)

Damn man that sucks are you just getting that one or both?

tomj77

iTrader: (2)

Just the one. The other one is fine. I think the pins basically seize in there because of heat. Anti seize don't work, but I do have some that is rated to 2700 degree and I'm gonna fill the holes and pins with it and see if that helps next change.

tomj77

iTrader: (2)

Him done venting now. I'm gonna make a vid maybe this weekend on some of the mods I did to fix some of the things I didn't like with the turbo kit, and other stuff

Snail_SS

iTrader: (3)

Nice man can't wait to see it

tomj77

iTrader: (2)

Well looks like everything is here now except my caliper, so I'll have everything done this weekend, then I hope next week the caliper and I'll rebleed the brakes and I'll be done

Snail_SS

iTrader: (3)

Nice man I had to put my car back together now that I found my boost leak so I can test if it was that why I couldn't pass 19-20 psi and I'm pretty sure it was

tomj77

iTrader: (2)

so the last of the fluid came out of my bell housing, with a little red in it, my heart stopped. then I noticed something, a few little red paint flakes in the redish fluid. so I pulled the plastic cover to see whats up, had to take off some stuff so I could see in. and apparently some of the clutch fluid from bleeding hit the pressure plate in a little spot and are the red paint off. so the red is not a leaking seal, it was red paint. man I'm relieved. looked about while someone was pressing clutch, no leaks evident, sprayed inside with brake clean a little and gonna close her up and trust all is well, while keeping an eye on it. but I think that issue is done

Snail_SS

iTrader: (3)

Awesome man hope it was only that

tomj77

iTrader: (2)

well the red for sure was only paint, it was like a drop of red, there is about an inch square paint missing. I touched the chips in the fluid and it right away dissolved into red brake fluid. lol as for the tob, I'm 90 percent sure its good

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Check the connection to the clutch pipe through the housing if you're still seeing some leaking, that was the issue with leemanfors, not the tob.

tomj77

iTrader: (2)

There is no issue with anything, it was just the fluid that came out when bleeding it, nothing is leaking in there, and since I took out the bottom bolts and let that fluid drain, it hasn't leaked since. And I was pressing the clutch quite a bit to check

tomj77

iTrader: (2)

Stainless turbo brace woo

63 Nova SS

iTrader: (3)

Nice Powell brace! I'm guessing. I bet there are hundreds of guys who had the same issue as you with the caliper. I pop my pins out every year and either change them out, or coat them up really well from hearing all the horror stories. Mine hasn't seen salt so I think that helps.

Snail_SS

iTrader: (3)

Nice man I like that brace I don't think it will work with my f40 swap tho I have to cut that bolt at the bottom to install speed sensor if I remember correctly

zeeky420

As long as you only use top bolt there then you would be good the bottom bolt needs to be cut then that block goes on that for speed sensor

tomj77

iTrader: (2)

Why is the speed sensor all the way over in the middle of the engine block with an f40? This isn't making sense too me

tomj77

iTrader: (2)

Yup I have him measurements and what I figured would work, He designed from there, this is the second revision, pretty amazed he got it pretty well perfect doing this over text with me lol