Yeah I'd say oil and plug change is a good idea. That diesel might take a good bit to get out.

Might be a good time for some spirited driving and get the temp really high to get the last bit out.

With that said you could still scope the intake valves to see what they look like.

 

Did you reset your fuel trims after fixing the maf? Otherwise I would guess the extra fuel from the cleaner is trending your ltft lower making start up better

 

Good, Now do "how to thread".

 

No I didn't, didn't really know to. However I looked back and before I fixed the MAF signal the LTFT was anywhere from -3% to -4% and after the fix it was anywhere from 0% to -0.78%. That change seemed pretty immediate, allthough there was no change with startup or cranking in either case.

Should I still reset it? Is that just disconnecting the battery for a while?

 

Yes just disconnecting, but your fuel trims are not bad at all either way.

 

Just wanted to update a few days later I STILL smelled something in the exhaust although much more faint. Just to see, I ran some more seafoam through (haven't changed oil/plugs yet will today) and the smoke from that was extreme. I ran seafoam through probably 2 weeks ago now before I used the CRC GDI spray with very little smoke which I was expecting.

However today it was so much smoke I was hoping nobody was going to call the fire department. Perhaps the spray softened the crap. No comment on how it runs now though because of a retarded problem:

I reset my fuel trim via battery disconnect just to see what would happen yesterday. Now I can't get above 15 psi. I thought maybe the trifecta tune was gone somehow which seemed unlikely, but when I hit the cruise control to toggle it to "stock" it only gets up to 7 psi... but otherwise drives normal... So it gets up to 15 psi quick then just stops immediately - just like the stock tune. Yet the stock tune only gets up to 7.

That's a difference of 8 psi. Which is exactly the difference the tune was before, 15 psi stock/ 23 psi tune.

 

I'll take a stab. You fucked up your MAP sensor.

 

Did you use the CRC cleaner the right way? Just like ^ he said, you probably messed up your MAF.

It says not to use that CRC stuff before the MAF, to only use it after it in the intake...

 

I followed the directions. I didn't even want to, I'd rather have put it in the intake manifold vacuum line on top but because there was no information anywhere I just went step by step.

It literally says "do not spray before the MAF" like 4 separate times in caps so I did not spray my MAF. I removed the hose after the MAF a little to fit the stray way down in there.

Besides this dumb boost issue happened days later the moment I unplugged the battery for 15 minutes. I don't think they're related but I can't rule it out yet, the timing is unfortunate.

This is possible, I have ordered some 3 bar ones anyways. If I did mess them up I'll know. If the CRC had anything to with this boost issue, my second guess is it messed up the diaphragm in the BPV

 

Reading all of this, this furthers tell me to do let a shop do it. I can't deal with touchy stuff and it taking 12 hrs to do....yea, I need my weekends.

 

Yea but what shop knows how to walnut blast?

 

An update regarding the CRC GDI intake spray.

Today I experienced a loss of boost 4 days after the treatment. It happened to coincide with resetting the fuel trim, but that is likely a very badly timed coincidence.

As the day went on the situation got worse and I could only boost to 3-12 psi depending on if I turned on and off my trifecta tune. I then threw code P2187 (System Lean). I did some logs and for fuel trim was flat at -10%.

Since I sprayed this before the turbo, following instructions and not something I'd normally do, the first thing I checked was my BPV. It is a Forge piston BPV.

My orings were completely dry. The piston was sparkling clean, no oil on the face at all. This is the last thing I'd expect. I just greased and put a new spring in this 3 months ago so this was bad news. The cleaner definitely wiped the BPV of most of it's grease making it nearly non-functional. As a result it was getting stuck I'm sure, causing it to recirculate constantly.

I do not know how the diaphragm style OEM bpv would fare.

I regreased the orings and instantly regained full boost, running as well as ever.

If you were to use this spray I'd probably recommend simply spraying it where you typically put seafoam (vacuum line on top of intake manifold). Frankly if all it did was clean my BPV I wouldn't mind just regreasing it in the future, however like I said I don't know what this would do to the stock BPV because I don't know how that works.

Just something to keep in mind.

On the upside like I said before, the spray did actually work for me. How much it cleaned I don't know. At least it let me know my valves were almost certainly the culprit since it made a fairly dramatic difference to my symptoms (hard to start, long crank, bad idle on startup)

 

Primarily performance shops. Most likely will go to a bmw performance shop or someone who has done this before in Maryland. This shouldn't be too hard to find, but the cost may deter me from going through with it.

 

If you're okay with that, you could definitely check out e90post and see which indy performance shops could do this. Same process basically.

 

do you guys run 93 octane and use a engine cleaner every oil change? wondering how valves would look with these procedures

 

Engine cleaners don't do dick on direct injection for head cleaning.

Stop calling them indy, they are indepent shops not indy

 

I read this whole thread last night... and I know I'm stating a bit of the obvious (but didn't see it mentioned?). I fought this issue for a long time on my wife's previous car, an Audi A4 w/2.0T TSI. Her car was basically unusable every 20-30k miles and we eventually unloaded it. Take some of the pictures I've seen in this thread and multiply it by 2... like 70% of the intake port would be obstructed.

Long story short, besides PCV system being inadequate, a good portion of this is due to the cam overlap being ran for emissions reasons.

I guess the point of my post is: PCV upgrades are very welcome additions to the LNF, but you'll never solve it totally short of installing a port-injection system on the car. Which I think many of you have come to realize.

GDI, both a blessing and a curse!

 

Better not go on bimmerpost forums then.
Everyone says that there

 

This isn't bimmer.net its cobaltss.net

 

You might think you "need" your weekends but I'm willing to bet you couldn't live without your car.

Typical SS owner mentality

Time for me to walnut blast valves from start to finish. Under 3 hours. If I wasn't drinking it could have been under 2 easily.

 

Took me 12 the first time. Will be half that second time and twice as clean.

Go slow as hell and it's not hard at all. Big difference too.

 

Including taking everything apart, masking, cleaning, and putting it back together?

 

i would say based on what I do its sort of an all day job. It actually takes about an hour to pull the manifold and then half an hour to prep everything. The actual blasting and vaccuuming takes about 45 mins to an hour depending on the build up. 10-15 minutes a port. Then another hour to strip the pcv out of the manifold and clean it thoroughly, then remove the stuff that is protecting the engine.
we are at 3 hours or so. Now replace the manifold change the oil and filter ( filter while the mani is off as its easy, put the spark plugs back in etc... another good hour...

so add 30 minutes to clean the equipment, put the walnuts away, sweep and vacuum the shop and road test the vehicle .

I charge 600 including pcv, new mani gasket, oil and filter.... so you can prolly fit something else in to do but the day is about shot anyway after all that.

 

I wish you were close enough to do that.

 

return air fare you find the compressor I bring the rest lol