And So It Begins - Another ZZP Engine Swap

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Mar 31, 2012 | 09:43 PM

#26

cmiller8006

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From: Ohio

Here is a good couple pics of the gears and colored links on the chain and how they go.

Apr 1, 2012 | 06:13 AM

#27

FasterIsBetter

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From: South Charleston, WV

Quote:

Originally Posted by gone_in_10_sec

FasterIsBetter - I'm stoked!! Just like what 40rty stated - 2012 looks like a good year for you, me and everybody else!!

I had a customer 3 weeks ago, who had the Mobile1 oil filter and the "nipple" broke off, he was lucky too, I found the nipple in oil filter "cup".. We stopped ordering them, we now use either AC/Delco or K&N..

Thanks man, its def looking like a great year for you too. I hope the best for your 700hp build and I will be pushing my car harder as well and getting around those numbers later this year as the built trans goes in with the 5th injector and I drop a pte 6262 in!

Apr 1, 2012 | 12:13 PM

#28

gone_in_10_sec

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From: A.B.E. PA & Jacksonville FL

Quote:

Originally Posted by FasterIsBetter

are you coming to ZZP meet, this month??

Apr 1, 2012 | 01:16 PM

#29

FasterIsBetter

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From: South Charleston, WV

Quote:

Originally Posted by gone_in_10_sec

are you coming to ZZP meet, this month??

Yeap, engine should be broke in by the time I get there since I'll have a few weeks to drive it and the trip is like 800 miles one way. I was hoping to have my off-road vehicle sold so I can grab a stage 2 trans while I'm up there as well. Wouldn't mind getting a dyno tune while I'm up there or just plain learning more about tuning on the LNF. I'm pretty good with tuning LSx based engines but when tuning for F/I I'm a lil lost.

Apr 1, 2012 | 08:37 PM

#30

FasterIsBetter

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From: South Charleston, WV

Just need to unbolt the downpipe, hook up the hoist, and unbolt the mounts. Then I can drop it some, take loose the heater core hoses a bit easier, then drop the engine completely out.

Apr 2, 2012 | 08:40 PM

#31

FasterIsBetter

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From: South Charleston, WV

Got my head and cams by UPS today. The shortblock, new zzp charge piping(got tired of the hahn crap), and arp headstuds should be in tomorrow.

Apr 2, 2012 | 09:23 PM

#32

40rty

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From: San Diego

Great Pictures!!!

Apr 2, 2012 | 09:41 PM

#33

SSlobalt

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From: Kathmandu

Sooooooooooooooooo jealous.

Apr 2, 2012 | 09:50 PM

#34

FasterIsBetter

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From: South Charleston, WV

Quote:

Originally Posted by cmiller8006

Here is a good couple pics of the gears and colored links on the chain and how they go.

Question, where did you get the nipple for the coolant reservoir at on top of the main coolant line? It looks nothing like the stock one as it doesn't have the extra feed on top for the coolant. Did that come with your ZZP turbo kit because I never got one of those? Or did you just use a Banjo bolt from on the turbo water lines and spin the nipple around for the feed to the coolant reservoir?

Apr 2, 2012 | 10:36 PM

#35

Matt M

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From: Grand Rapids, MI

Quote:

Originally Posted by FasterIsBetter

It's from the back of the motor where the turbo water line was before.

Apr 2, 2012 | 11:06 PM

#36

tomj77

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question, can someone post a pic of the tentoner on the motor so i know where to look lol

Apr 2, 2012 | 11:21 PM

#37

cmiller8006

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From: Ohio

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomj77

question, can someone post a pic of the tentoner on the motor so i know where to look lol

The brownish colored bolt. 32mm

Apr 2, 2012 | 11:43 PM

#38

40rty

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From: San Diego

Quote:

Originally Posted by SSlobalt

From what I understand from 40rty's pics, you put the blue timing chain link up top, mark the position, then mark the cam pulley positions. The cam gears only fit on one way, so that'll give you the proper cam position.

Hey,

Sorry just wanted to add that what you see in the pic is my timing being off by a tooth, as I later came to find out. The motor ran great but we were still off a hair. I've re timed the car since with the method others here suggested.

Apr 3, 2012 | 12:10 AM

#39

FasterIsBetter

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From: South Charleston, WV

Quote:

Originally Posted by cmiller8006

The brownish colored bolt. 32mm

Damn, your timing chain tensioner looks pretty rusty. How many miles did you have on your engine when you rebuilt it?

Apr 3, 2012 | 12:14 AM

#40

FasterIsBetter

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From: South Charleston, WV

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt M

It's from the back of the motor where the turbo water line was before.

Ok, cause I had mine plugged off with a cooling system rubber cap and worm clamp. That of course looks cleaner. Maybe someone should do a write-up on your turbo kit for the little things like that.

Apr 3, 2012 | 12:18 AM

#41

40rty

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From: San Diego

Whats the a/r for the 256? Both exhuast and compressor housings. Also, it that BB?

Apr 3, 2012 | 12:26 AM

#42

FasterIsBetter

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From: South Charleston, WV

Quote:

Originally Posted by 40rty

Whats the a/r for the 256? Both exhuast and compressor housings. Also, it that BB?

Its .55 a/r for the exhaust. I'll have to look up the size for the compressor. The 256 is journal bearing. Now the pic above is of Cmillers PTE5857SP.

Apr 3, 2012 | 12:28 AM

#43

matt638

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From: Toronto

sub'd

Apr 3, 2012 | 01:56 PM

#44

cmiller8006

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From: Ohio

It wasnt actually rusty. It was a new tensioner. Just weird colored.

Apr 3, 2012 | 03:44 PM

#45

40rty

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From: San Diego

Anybody got a pic of a 256?

Apr 3, 2012 | 04:41 PM

#46

BLAZIN07SS

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From: Miami, Florida

Quote:

Originally Posted by 40rty

Anybody got a pic of a 256?

Apr 3, 2012 | 04:44 PM

#47

raver0789

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From: Toronto

There is a thread I started a couple of pages back which has a pic of my s256.

Apr 3, 2012 | 06:07 PM

#48

40rty

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From: San Diego

Nice, thanks

Apr 4, 2012 | 08:57 PM

#49

tomj77

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omg i love this thread. most informative one so far

Apr 4, 2012 | 10:51 PM

#50

blrt

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From: south west of GTA

Quote:

Originally Posted by cmiller8006

The brownish colored bolt. 32mm

Wow wow look at the size of that snail...

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