Welp, went to prime the engine and the timing chain tensioner blew apart and destroyed all the rockers as well as bent two valves just barely, LOL! Boy, my luck is shitty......so I ordered another tensioner and gaskets and am taking the head to the local machine shop to have him regrind/replace all the valves needed and polish the cam as there's a few tiny nicks in them. It will be at least another week on this, lol... /moneypit

On to other news, my jeep is getting lots of calls lately due to Craigs List and I'm loving it. Selling it for 3500 asking price and hopefully someone will realize I really do have over $4,000 in just things like tires and trans on that thing....

 

damn that sucks

 

Nothing like destroying a 2,000 dollar head lol

 

Ohhhhh yeah, I was pissed.

 

Damn that really does blow man sorry to hear this . Hopefully you will get it all worked out and then get it running and after break in period I promise that first real romp your troubles will all seem worth it .

 

Yeah, should be broke in by the middle of next month. Then I can be in the mid 400s on pump gas and love it (hopefully, lol). The shop says they overnight their parts so I should almost be guaranteed to have it next week.

 

From Japan? Sorry as soon as I read that I couldn't get the stupid F&F quote out of my head ha ha.

 

Haha, nah, we drive domestic cars guy so the parts are coming from China! LOL!!

 

Did you have the tensioner loaded and release it after assembly? It is possible to have it extended and stuck in the wrong position, which can cause serious issues.

 

Well, the clip that goes in the front of the tensioner was bent, twisted, and hanging on the end of the tensioner so it didn't hold any oil pressure there. My guess is as soon as the engine built up oil pressure, somehow the clip gave way. It was loaded and released after assembly as the tensioner has tension against it when trying to screw in the tensioner into the head which would otherwise make it very difficult to insert into the head. I'm guessing the tensioner was faulty and I'm replacing it again after I get the head and cams back.

 

I remember the good old days with the old 327 cu in Chevy motors where you just primed them on the engine stand with a drill and an old distributor rod.

Sorry to hear about your problems, Faster. It already hurts to spend 5K on a motor, then have to turn right around and spend another 2K on it. Wasn't it Cuda or cmiller having issues with the chain tensioners? Somebody has been through 3 of them.

 

Double ouch!!!

 

Lol, there's a piece of a rocker stuck in the wall somewhere.

 

The Bolt WILL be running this weekend! The machine shop did an amazing job on the head and polishing of the cams. Can't even feel the nicks in the cams. Another tensioner and more gaskets so should be set. Gonna drop the subframe again to make the removal of the timing cover and balancer easy.

 

Wow, I am surprised to see anyone building a LNF anywhere around here. I am subscribing to follow the build.

 

Well, after a long awaited time, the bolt is together. Will post a vid of it running open downpipe for the time being(until I bolt the side exit on).

 

She runs and the rings are almost seated! She needs a good tune revision though, currently on a base file from Matt and I'm throwing a cam sensor low voltage code on sensor b(I'm guessing exhaust side). Blew my BOV o-ring on the charge pipe while trying to seat the rings on the road, been trying to find one but for now it doesn't have one on it. Its quite laggy atm but I believe large vacuum lines, cam sensor, a new bov o-ring, and a better tune will fix that.

http://www.facebook.com/v/10150795215009208

 

I'm glad you finally have it running. You don't need a re-tune, though. If it's not running right and you try to retune it, then you are trying to tune around issues. The file I sent you will run great if everything is installed and operating correctly.

 

Yeah, I think the maf sensor finally went. It threw a maf performance code a few times and then I took it home and cleared it. Now it won't stay running. Good news is I got it to seat the rings for the most part with a few wot pulls at 15psi. I do need to disable the bpv solenoid code though.

 

I am going to buy your lsj oil line kit though because you guys built block runs an lsj style oil return in which the fitting is welded to the oil pan. I have it set up right now with a long brass extension from the oil pan.

 

I don't have your file at home- are you running blow-through MAF or draw-through?

 

Yes, our 2.1s typically have the return fitting in the pan.

 

Blow through. Idk if you had my tune made for that or not. I can send it to you via email.

 

It should be set up right. File name from the email was Walton09cssg256s1sbtmmbccams meaning 256 turbo, stage 1 sensors, blow-through maf, manual boost control, s1 cams. Are you running meth?

 

Not currently. You recommended that I shouldn't while breaking the engine in. After I put a thousand or so miles on it I suppose I'll install it and start increasing the boost, maybe pay you for a retune or most likely come see you for a trans install and retune as I found quite a few metal shavings in the trans fluid. I'll be running a tb spacer drilled for meth so it shouldn't affect the maf sensor.