proper build through winter, hint the tracks while they're still cold in march!!!!!

 

any updates?

 

starting to get some of the big parts bought. New head, zzp block. Going to put in a new crank, rods and pistons as well. Doing an electric water pump. Going to be a couple more months but am also going to loose a little weight in the car, she should run pretty good when done.

 

Anything wrong with the old crank? Wanna sell it?

 

Not a thing wrong with it. I am just going to be very very picky with the build. How much you wanna pay?

 

$5. Lol. No clue what one even costs.

 

Want to build a spare engine and will need a crank

 

sweeeeeeet

 

You can get a new one for like 380 plus shipping from ced. How about 175.00

 

LOL, The last time I took a SC apart I had to use the engine hoist to strap on to the front and jack it up in the air pull the engine back up in , and then bolt the sub frame back on LOL


I am curious how others are doing it , thats so funny the first thing I started doing was hen pecking how he removed it then I said , thats pretty damn clever. Engine removal tips section collaboration would be a good thing. So many of us run into some things that could save so many so much time .


More work pulling bumper crash bar but not really ... I still havent torn mine down yest ( coolant in oil ) I am pretty sure a dealer nightmare isn't even a question so Ill be tearing it down once it gets warm out ... ( full rebuild coming soon as well )

 

Pull the front bumper off, undo all the wiring harness and pull it up out of the way, make sure you unbolt the stering colum, unlolt the down pipe at the catback, unbolt the axle nuts and the struts and so forth. I put a 6x6 accross under the crash support for added strentgh and lower it to a set of furniture dollies and unbolt the cradle, raise it up making sure theres not any wires left behind. then jack stand the jack points so you can roll the motor out the front. Sounds like a lot but takes about two to three hours. If head is still on the car then once you get to the last step, unbolt the crash support and the whole motor will turn side ways and out the front.

 

block looks porous.

 

That's how all the gen two blocks look.

 

I hear ya on the crank. I just had mine checked and polished. You buying another set of K1 Rods and Wiseco Pistons too? Personally I just bought new rings after having the entire bottom end checked and cleaned by a machine shop.

 

All new parts.

Prolly just going to do ZZP rods.

 

Reusing parts? Ain't no perfectionist got time fo' that!?

 

There's an self proclaimed expert on mototuneusa.com who makes a valid point stating that you should ream a new engine as soon as possible to utilize the abrasiveness of a new cylinder wall that quickly worn away; high loads early on more effectively grind the rings to the bore.

I've never been in a big turbo cobalt and only imagine that a 600 hp fwd on the street is spinning all the power away....is there a sweet spot for a 600 hp fwd on the street? Do you run lower power on street and high boost at strip with slicks? I'm on stock tubo 24 psi e47 and getting tired of spinning the power away!

Regardless, your build is awesome!

 

The pull is awesome.

 

we keep from spinning because with making that power comes a turbo that isn't going to spool like a ko4. it'll allow us to put down a great amount up top. but gradually apply it and keep a fine line between spool, powerband, and peak. oh and learning how to drive the car when it spins instead of just letting it peg off the limiter and then shift before you need to certainly helps.

 

Soo bigger and better things huh. I'm guessing you're keeping and installing the 6262? Any plans of getting the TTR Intake manifold?

 

Stock mani, I think it's the way to go. Just gasket or port match it to a ported head and it will be sweet.

 

Here for awesome

 

niiicccee

 

I agree that I had to learn to finesse the throttle with my setup, but with 600 hp coming on within a narrow powerband...even with boost ramp you guys are making as much power as I do at much less psi and must be getting spin until 4th gear. Are you still able to have fun on the street with 600 hp?

You guys have the money to do rwd and awd platforms that would put down the power, why did you choose fwd over those platforms? I can't see any situation in which fwd would benefit over the others except in drivetrain loss...maybe you prefer the characteristics of a fwd monster?

I'm not hating, just curious...my love of this platform was tainted when a friend let me drive his modded Evo X! My answer may only be in experiencing one of these 600 hp beasts!

 

We do it with the cobalt because no one else does. Also I was a starting college kid looking for a decently quick car and got the gm plan. Was the only logical answer for me.