Whats your oil?
No matter how long the oil can last, the filter only last on average 3000-5000 miles. and once the filter is clogged the oil pump goes into bypass mode anyway so it is not even getting cleaned anymore which is why your oil is going to be extremly black at a 10000 mile oil change. Also they warrenty the engine for 100000 miles, so what happens after 100000 miles say 125000 and all your **** is clogged up from all the dirt build up over the years. Change your oil 3000-5000 no matter what people tell you, or change the filter every 3000 and add the remander of oil to fill it up then you never really have to change it.
Don't use your dipstick jimmy!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Go with amsoil if you have the money, otherwise RP, Mobil 1, and Castrol are all fine
Oh and Purolator filter have the highest filtering capabilities of any filter on the market, it has been proven, don't waste money on K&N or mobil 1 or any of that bullshit... K&N filters are actually some of the worst filters you can buy, along with fram.... They have good marketing though
Go with amsoil if you have the money, otherwise RP, Mobil 1, and Castrol are all fine
Oh and Purolator filter have the highest filtering capabilities of any filter on the market, it has been proven, don't waste money on K&N or mobil 1 or any of that bullshit... K&N filters are actually some of the worst filters you can buy, along with fram.... They have good marketing though
hey i have a question i put in the o-30 from mobile one when it was still kinda snowing so i heard its good for cold starts and what not but what happens in the summer or near warmer temperatures will i loose gas milage or loose performance ??
No matter how long the oil can last, the filter only last on average 3000-5000 miles. and once the filter is clogged the oil pump goes into bypass mode anyway so it is not even getting cleaned anymore which is why your oil is going to be extremly black at a 10000 mile oil change. Also they warrenty the engine for 100000 miles, so what happens after 100000 miles say 125000 and all your **** is clogged up from all the dirt build up over the years. Change your oil 3000-5000 no matter what people tell you, or change the filter every 3000 and add the remander of oil to fill it up then you never really have to change it.
if you use good oil filters it shouldn't be a problem. I've never had a problem with any filters. but some people just get whatever's cheapest, which is not made to last as long. There was a bulletin put out a while back by gm that certain warranty repairs would not be covered if it was found that a different oil filter than oem was used.
Don't use your dipstick jimmy!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Go with amsoil if you have the money, otherwise RP, Mobil 1, and Castrol are all fine
Oh and Purolator filter have the highest filtering capabilities of any filter on the market, it has been proven, don't waste money on K&N or mobil 1 or any of that bullshit... K&N filters are actually some of the worst filters you can buy, along with fram.... They have good marketing though
Go with amsoil if you have the money, otherwise RP, Mobil 1, and Castrol are all fine
Oh and Purolator filter have the highest filtering capabilities of any filter on the market, it has been proven, don't waste money on K&N or mobil 1 or any of that bullshit... K&N filters are actually some of the worst filters you can buy, along with fram.... They have good marketing though
Last edited by Terminator2; Apr 29, 2009 at 04:26 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
What it comes down to is that if you change your oil regularly, and use high quality oil, it's not going to make a difference what you use. it comes down to preference, and what you can afford. that's really it.
many of the "unbiased tests" are not really unbiased. You can look up tons of reports that rank them differently.
What it comes down to is that if you change your oil regularly, and use high quality oil, it's not going to make a difference what you use. it comes down to preference, and what you can afford. that's really it.
What it comes down to is that if you change your oil regularly, and use high quality oil, it's not going to make a difference what you use. it comes down to preference, and what you can afford. that's really it.
This was in regards to an email I sent about K04 BTF cores
The cores are fully rebuilt and clean. They are glassbeaded and inspected.
Some have their turbine shaft ground 0.001-3" undersize to renew the
surface. Approximatly 30% of the ones that come in need a re-grind. Those
are the folks that arent so great about changing their oil.
Some have their turbine shaft ground 0.001-3" undersize to renew the
surface. Approximatly 30% of the ones that come in need a re-grind. Those
are the folks that arent so great about changing their oil.
1% isnt when you need to change your oil...If your doing it @ 1% that effectively means you oil life is done. I run my work car up to 20% on the oil life monitor, then start thinking about getting a change (comes out around 7k-9k miles).....On my car, because the TURBO isnt be accounted for in the oil life monitor, I plan on doing the oil every 5k...because turbos and oil just dont really like each other.
This was in regards to an email I sent about K04 BTF cores
Personally I think those 30% are the ones that like you follow the oil life monitors down to a T or run upgwards of 10k miles before oil changes or put in cheap oil. Turbos are more demanding then a regular engine on the oil system.
This was in regards to an email I sent about K04 BTF cores
Personally I think those 30% are the ones that like you follow the oil life monitors down to a T or run upgwards of 10k miles before oil changes or put in cheap oil. Turbos are more demanding then a regular engine on the oil system.
Again, GM would tell us if it were necessary to change the oil more often. The reason the monitor is there is to follow it. That is like saying "3,000 miles means the oil is done...I do it at 2,000 because the manufacturer doesn't know what they are talking about. I know more than GM".
Reliability
Turbochargers can be damaged by dirty or ineffective oil, and most manufacturers recommend more frequent oil changes for turbocharged engines. Many owners and some companies recommend using synthetic oils, which tend to flow more readily when cold and do not break down as quickly as conventional oils. Because the turbocharger will heat when running, many recommend letting the engine idle for one to three minutes before shutting off the engine if the turbocharger was used shortly before stopping (most manufacturers specify a 10-second period of idling before switching off to ensure the turbocharger is running at its idle speed to prevent damage to the bearings when the oil supply is cut off). This lets the turbo rotating assembly cool from the lower exhaust gas temperatures, and ensures that oil is supplied to the turbocharger while the turbine housing and exhaust manifold are still very hot; otherwise coking of the lubricating oil trapped in the unit may occur when the heat soaks into the bearings, causing rapid bearing wear and failure when the car is restarted. Even small particles of burnt oil will accumulate and lead to choking the oil supply and failure. This problem is less pronounced in diesel engines, due to the lower exhaust temperatures and generally slower engine speeds.
Turbochargers can be damaged by dirty or ineffective oil, and most manufacturers recommend more frequent oil changes for turbocharged engines. Many owners and some companies recommend using synthetic oils, which tend to flow more readily when cold and do not break down as quickly as conventional oils. Because the turbocharger will heat when running, many recommend letting the engine idle for one to three minutes before shutting off the engine if the turbocharger was used shortly before stopping (most manufacturers specify a 10-second period of idling before switching off to ensure the turbocharger is running at its idle speed to prevent damage to the bearings when the oil supply is cut off). This lets the turbo rotating assembly cool from the lower exhaust gas temperatures, and ensures that oil is supplied to the turbocharger while the turbine housing and exhaust manifold are still very hot; otherwise coking of the lubricating oil trapped in the unit may occur when the heat soaks into the bearings, causing rapid bearing wear and failure when the car is restarted. Even small particles of burnt oil will accumulate and lead to choking the oil supply and failure. This problem is less pronounced in diesel engines, due to the lower exhaust temperatures and generally slower engine speeds.
Well first of all, most recommend you dont do your first oil change until 10,000 miles, or 1 year, whichever is first. I changed mine at 9000 miles, or bascially 10%. After that I would say run it until 10% on the monitor. This oil algorithm bases it on alot of different variables. For instance my car is a highway car, so I dont have to change my oil as often as a city or dusty driver. This whole 3000 mile myth came around to "trick" the consumer into buying more oil. Synthetic oil should last your average driver 7500-12000 miles, but regular engine oil should only last 5000 miles.
As far as getting your oil changed at the dealer, check your invoice for pricing. My dealer only charged me like 50 bucks for an oil change, one of those multi point inspection, and tire rotation. They did not use Mobil-1, they used regular engine oil. Needless to say, I will be changing my own oil from now on.
In regards to your filter being changed, many also recommend that if you change your oil every 3000 miles, you can alternate filter change every other oil change. Filters should last 7500-12000 miles as well, or basically the entire life of your oil.
It tends to be the case that people are very cautious on their maintenance to their vehicles, as they should be, but sometimes, you might just be pissing your money away.
As far as getting your oil changed at the dealer, check your invoice for pricing. My dealer only charged me like 50 bucks for an oil change, one of those multi point inspection, and tire rotation. They did not use Mobil-1, they used regular engine oil. Needless to say, I will be changing my own oil from now on.
In regards to your filter being changed, many also recommend that if you change your oil every 3000 miles, you can alternate filter change every other oil change. Filters should last 7500-12000 miles as well, or basically the entire life of your oil.
It tends to be the case that people are very cautious on their maintenance to their vehicles, as they should be, but sometimes, you might just be pissing your money away.
ah the oil debate
Royal Purlpe and just about every other oil out there was tested by a indepentant lab. RP won the bearing wear test by a long shot. Mobil 1 is good for 8000 miles. In the 80s when it came out Gm took 20 vettes and filled them up with mobil 1 and put them on the track. 10 vettes went 3000 miles and 10 vettes went 10000 miles. They torn the engines a part and found no diff between the cars. Just do your maintenance and use 100% synthetic oil, what ever that may be.
Royal Purlpe and just about every other oil out there was tested by a indepentant lab. RP won the bearing wear test by a long shot. Mobil 1 is good for 8000 miles. In the 80s when it came out Gm took 20 vettes and filled them up with mobil 1 and put them on the track. 10 vettes went 3000 miles and 10 vettes went 10000 miles. They torn the engines a part and found no diff between the cars. Just do your maintenance and use 100% synthetic oil, what ever that may be.
I don't know where you got your info, but RP generally gets low reviews in the wear department in independent tests, and M1 didn't come out in the 80's...
In conclusion, if you dont know how long you should wait to change your oil, get it analyzed. If all else fails follow GM's oil algorithm. If it breaks down, then youre covered.
On a side note, anyone tried quaker state horsepower? I am somewhat curious...


