Whats your oil?
New Member
Joined: 06-03-09
Posts: 58
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From: Maryland
What always cracks me up about threads like this are how loyal people are to Mobil 1 because it's the "factory fill". It's probably the only factory thing that comes with the car that people are loyal about using. 
Nothing wrong with Mobil 1. I've used it in the past with the good results. Just making an observation about how people can be to quick to say use it because "it came from the factory", yet they can't wait to change other things that came on their car from factory on thier cars.
As to the OP orginal question I used Valvoline Synthetic 5W-30 for the first to oil changes because of it's low Novak rating. Recently I switched to Shell Rotella T6 5W- 40 fully synthetic for the warmer weather ahead.
Nothing wrong with Mobil 1. I've used it in the past with the good results. Just making an observation about how people can be to quick to say use it because "it came from the factory", yet they can't wait to change other things that came on their car from factory on thier cars.
As to the OP orginal question I used Valvoline Synthetic 5W-30 for the first to oil changes because of it's low Novak rating. Recently I switched to Shell Rotella T6 5W- 40 fully synthetic for the warmer weather ahead.
If you don't care about your warranty, I vote German Castrol. I've run that in multiple high strung engines, and it's been great.
If you care about your warranty, Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum.
If you care about your warranty, Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum.
Senior Member
Joined: 05-18-09
Posts: 1,159
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From: Oklahoma
AmsOil FTW 5w30. Its about $58-60 a change.
Motor oils these days. If its a reputable dealer and synthetic. Even if not synthetic.. should be fine for a long time.
Motor oils these days. If its a reputable dealer and synthetic. Even if not synthetic.. should be fine for a long time.
Motor oils these days. If its a reputable dealer and synthetic. Even if not synthetic.. should be fine for a long time.
Motor oils these days. If its a reputable dealer and synthetic. Even if not synthetic.. should be fine for a long time.
Last edited by Kildore; Mar 11, 2010 at 09:13 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Senior Member
Joined: 07-17-07
Posts: 9,378
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From: right behind you.
Mobile1 0w-40 here. Turbo cars in general like to have their bearings coddled. For all those who are paying 60 dollars for your oil changes you can buy 5 qt of synthetic oil for 30 or less and the filter isn't very expense AND it gives you a chance to get under your car and take a look at everything. Its a win win. DIY FTW!
Banned
Joined: 12-29-09
Posts: 1,060
Likes: 1
From: USA
Valvoline Synpower 5W-30.
Signed up for the 300,000 mile Valvoline engine guarentee as well, nice benefit to using their oil.
Signed up for the 300,000 mile Valvoline engine guarentee as well, nice benefit to using their oil.
Last edited by 08SSTCRD; Mar 12, 2010 at 11:55 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
New Member
Joined: 02-06-09
Posts: 15
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From: Latham, NY
European Formula Castrol Syntec 0W-30
Good read ... http://www.jobbersworld.com/March%2020,%202009.htm
Good read ... http://www.jobbersworld.com/March%2020,%202009.htm
Senior Member
Joined: 05-18-09
Posts: 1,159
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From: Oklahoma
I use AC Delco filters, Mobil 1 extended performance synthetic 5W30 that meets required specification.
That makes me want to ask this question, what would it take to install an engine oil cooler, does the engine have oil gallery ports I can tap, is there enough flow to justify a bypass oil cooler?
FWIW I live in central Louisiana, it gets both hot and incredibly humid here, and in the summer it's not uncommon my cruise temps to be 205-212. If I had to guess I'd bet my oil temp is at least 100 degrees higher.
That makes me want to ask this question, what would it take to install an engine oil cooler, does the engine have oil gallery ports I can tap, is there enough flow to justify a bypass oil cooler?
FWIW I live in central Louisiana, it gets both hot and incredibly humid here, and in the summer it's not uncommon my cruise temps to be 205-212. If I had to guess I'd bet my oil temp is at least 100 degrees higher.
European Formula Castrol Syntec 0W-30
Good read ... http://www.jobbersworld.com/March%2020,%202009.htm
Good read ... http://www.jobbersworld.com/March%2020,%202009.htm
Senior Member
Joined: 05-18-05
Posts: 1,070
Likes: 1
From: Boston & SoCal
I'm currently running "German Castrol" 0w30 Syntec in the Cobalt. My other turbocharged cars usually get German Castrol, Mobil 1 0w40, or M1 5w40 (Turbo Diesel Truck, which is the same as their Delvac 1 synthetic) depending on the time of year. I also like to test my oil (usually Blackstone) which is the only true way to know for certain how your oil and filter are protecting as well as monitor their actual service life. Asking other people's opinions on a forum like this will generally get you just that, opinions.
It was already mentioned a while back in the thread but if you don't want to test for yourself and want to do some research and see if anyone has done independent testing on an oil you're looking at running you may want to check out the oil forums. There's a lot of good info on different oils and lubricants.
I personally don't like running M1 5w30 due to it having a tendency to shear down to close to a 20-weight oil near the end of it's service life. I'm not saying it is bad or you'll be wrong running it, but I personally think there are better choices for turbocharged applications running extended drain intervals like the LNF does. If warranty is a concern and you want to go with a synthetic meeting GM's 4718M standard and doing your own oil changes I'd probably recommend Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 which can be bought in 5-gallon jugs at most Wal-Mart locations. It has a good history in most engines at keeping them clean (good additive package) and providing good anti-wear characteristics. A simple analysis would be a good way to find out for sure but that goes for any oil.
It was already mentioned a while back in the thread but if you don't want to test for yourself and want to do some research and see if anyone has done independent testing on an oil you're looking at running you may want to check out the oil forums. There's a lot of good info on different oils and lubricants.
I personally don't like running M1 5w30 due to it having a tendency to shear down to close to a 20-weight oil near the end of it's service life. I'm not saying it is bad or you'll be wrong running it, but I personally think there are better choices for turbocharged applications running extended drain intervals like the LNF does. If warranty is a concern and you want to go with a synthetic meeting GM's 4718M standard and doing your own oil changes I'd probably recommend Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 which can be bought in 5-gallon jugs at most Wal-Mart locations. It has a good history in most engines at keeping them clean (good additive package) and providing good anti-wear characteristics. A simple analysis would be a good way to find out for sure but that goes for any oil.
I'm currently running "German Castrol" 0w30 Syntec in the Cobalt. My other turbocharged cars usually get German Castrol, Mobil 1 0w40, or M1 5w40 (Turbo Diesel Truck, which is the same as their Delvac 1 synthetic) depending on the time of year. I also like to test my oil (usually Blackstone) which is the only true way to know for certain how your oil and filter are protecting as well as monitor their actual service life. Asking other people's opinions on a forum like this will generally get you just that, opinions.
It was already mentioned a while back in the thread but if you don't want to test for yourself and want to do some research and see if anyone has done independent testing on an oil you're looking at running you may want to check out the oil forums. There's a lot of good info on different oils and lubricants.
I personally don't like running M1 5w30 due to it having a tendency to shear down to close to a 20-weight oil near the end of it's service life. I'm not saying it is bad or you'll be wrong running it, but I personally think there are better choices for turbocharged applications running extended drain intervals like the LNF does. If warranty is a concern and you want to go with a synthetic meeting GM's 4718M standard and doing your own oil changes I'd probably recommend Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 which can be bought in 5-gallon jugs at most Wal-Mart locations. It has a good history in most engines at keeping them clean (good additive package) and providing good anti-wear characteristics. A simple analysis would be a good way to find out for sure but that goes for any oil.
It was already mentioned a while back in the thread but if you don't want to test for yourself and want to do some research and see if anyone has done independent testing on an oil you're looking at running you may want to check out the oil forums. There's a lot of good info on different oils and lubricants.
I personally don't like running M1 5w30 due to it having a tendency to shear down to close to a 20-weight oil near the end of it's service life. I'm not saying it is bad or you'll be wrong running it, but I personally think there are better choices for turbocharged applications running extended drain intervals like the LNF does. If warranty is a concern and you want to go with a synthetic meeting GM's 4718M standard and doing your own oil changes I'd probably recommend Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 which can be bought in 5-gallon jugs at most Wal-Mart locations. It has a good history in most engines at keeping them clean (good additive package) and providing good anti-wear characteristics. A simple analysis would be a good way to find out for sure but that goes for any oil.
I use Mobil 1 and change it every spring when I pull it out from storage. My SS will have its fourth oil change when I pull it out in a couple of weeks and it only has 8274 miles on it. I don't want the same oil in it that sat all winter.
Member
Joined: 03-26-09
Posts: 223
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From: MI
I haven't poked around BITOG too much recently; is there still quite a bit of buzz about GC? People didn't seem as excited about it when it was no longer green. Then oils like PP came along and showed very good results and can be obtained easier and cheaper. Regardless of which oil you run between those two, you're going to get good results. I'm considering doing a used oil analysis on the PP that's currently in my car. Should be around 8500 miles on the oil when the OLM goes off.
Senior Member
Joined: 05-18-05
Posts: 1,070
Likes: 1
From: Boston & SoCal
The newer yellow formulation German Castrol seems to protect just as well as the older green colored version. I need to send in a sample from the Cobalt next change, but I've been more than happy with it's performance in my turbo Dodges. I would run something else if I couldn't get it, but I usually stock up when AutoZone has their oil change specials with M1 filters. I'm probably sitting on a hundred quarts of it left and I think it's one of the better synthetics for my driving/use in the other cars and hopefully for the Coablt too.
