Whats your oil?
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From: Glen Ellyn, Illinois
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From: Atlantic Canada
I'm going to start off by pointing out the one and only independant oil test using Amsoil that I've ever seen.
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/amsoil.html
Now if you've read the article, you're going to know that Amoil is slightly better than Mobil 1. However, it tends to thicken with mileage which will cost you mpg.
So the only question is, will Amsoil or Royal Purple really make that much of a difference over the lifespan of an engine to make the extra cost justified. The answer is no.
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/amsoil.html
Now if you've read the article, you're going to know that Amoil is slightly better than Mobil 1. However, it tends to thicken with mileage which will cost you mpg.
So the only question is, will Amsoil or Royal Purple really make that much of a difference over the lifespan of an engine to make the extra cost justified. The answer is no.
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Joined: 10-10-08
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From: Richmond
I'm going to start off by pointing out the one and only independant oil test using Amsoil that I've ever seen.
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/amsoil.html
Now if you've read the article, you're going to know that Amoil is slightly better than Mobil 1. However, it tends to thicken with mileage which will cost you mpg.
So the only question is, will Amsoil or Royal Purple really make that much of a difference over the lifespan of an engine to make the extra cost justified. The answer is no.
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/amsoil.html
Now if you've read the article, you're going to know that Amoil is slightly better than Mobil 1. However, it tends to thicken with mileage which will cost you mpg.
So the only question is, will Amsoil or Royal Purple really make that much of a difference over the lifespan of an engine to make the extra cost justified. The answer is no.
I decided to get my oil changed yesterday at 2300 miles to kill off the convential oil so my car would breathe more and feel protected in my SS/TC. Been using Mobil 1 5W30 for many years from my preowned Cobalt SS/SC for three years. So, I stopped by Advanced Auto Parts and felt undecided of which oil brands to go for like Mobil1, QuakerState, RoyalPurple, or CastrolEdge because they were all synthetic, until the Castrol commercial popped in my head saying, "Think with your dipstick Jimmy!". So I grabbed 5 qts of Castrol Edge and the AcDelco filter and spent $45. Because I was thinking with my dipstick.
Last edited by efactor; Jan 30, 2010 at 09:04 AM.
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From: MI SCS
I use the 5w30Kendall Full Synthetic from Firestone. My buddy is the manager and i get a good deal.
I change ever 3-4 k miles
I used to change my oil by myself, but once the rents moved all the tools got taken with them so i had no way of doing it.
I change ever 3-4 k miles
I used to change my oil by myself, but once the rents moved all the tools got taken with them so i had no way of doing it.
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From: Carol Stream
Amsoil Full Synthetic or Torco here. i've never liked mobile 1 products. i was using rp for a long time but i feel that ever since rp has hit the store shelfs it hasent been the same as it use to be when you could only get it at performance shops or direct.
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From: Alabama
You guys ready for what I've been using in every vehicle I've owned for the last 10 years with no major engine failures? Walmart Full Synthetic and a Purolator Pure One Filter. Used it on my modified 90 Talon TSI AWD, Built 85 Grand National, 86 Trans Am w/built 350, 86 Monte Carlo w/383 stroker and all the wifes vehicles.
With that being said, the Walmart Full Synthetic is like only a few cents difference now from name brands, it use to be $2 cheaper per quart! So now I'm back to name brand synthetics, but it it was still $2 cheaper I would be using.
For new engine build break-ins I use regular Castrol oil.
With that being said, the Walmart Full Synthetic is like only a few cents difference now from name brands, it use to be $2 cheaper per quart! So now I'm back to name brand synthetics, but it it was still $2 cheaper I would be using.
For new engine build break-ins I use regular Castrol oil.
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From: Florida
I wish they made a 0W-40 but as far as I can tell they do not.
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From: TN
I decided to get my oil changed yesterday at 2300 miles to kill off the convential oil so my car would breathe more and feel protected in my SS/TC. Been using Mobil 1 5W30 for many years from my preowned Cobalt SS/SC for three years. So, I stopped by Advanced Auto Parts and felt undecided of which oil brands to go for like Mobil1, QuakerState, RoyalPurple, or CastrolEdge because they were all synthetic, until the Castrol commercial popped in my head saying, "Think with your dipstick Jimmy!". So I grabbed 5 qts of Castrol Edge and the AcDelco filter and spent $45. Because I was thinking with my dipstick.
I've got Valvoline synthetic in mine.
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Joined: 08-28-08
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From: Sunshine State
I've used Amsoil in everything I own with a spark plug in it for 12 years now. I was convinced that Amsoil synthetic was the way to go when I put it in the Harley the first time. The engine ran cooler (you could actually FEEL the difference with your hand) and quieter. From then on everything got Amsoil. Not I'm NOT advertising Amsoil. I'm NOT a "dealer". There may be other, better synthetics out there. I DON'T put much stock in product adds cause they all want to sell THEIR product and can make data and statistics look like anything they want. That includes Amsoil. I stick with Amsoil for a couple of reasons. First, they are the pioneers of synthetic lubricants. They've had more time, trial and error to get it right. Second it has PROVEN itself to me in the motorcycle. Harley Davidson is a good test bed for just about everything. Because I believe in their lubricants I also use their branded filters and whatever else they have that I can use.
No matter WHAT you use, if you're religious about oil and filter changes I beleive you'll be good to go. Just for ***** and giggles I'm going to send a oil sample out for test at 10,000 miles just out of curiousity. Normally I do my changes at 5,000 but one long change won't hurt. Even if it does the warranty will buy me a new engine.
Do you also suggest at cold start-up letting the engine warm up, and get a constant, ample flow of oil before adding ANY throttle? Also do you also suggest allowing the turbo to cool and and again get a constant supply of oil before shutting down? I've read several experts say just that. I, PERSONALLY, allow the engine to run to closed loop, about 2 minutes and 105 to 125 degrees before touching the throttle and when shutting down allow the car to idle at a stand still for 30 seconds, or so. Call me ****. It all makes sense to me. With the turbo turning at 100,000 rpm plus it needs all the lubrication it can get.
No matter WHAT you use, if you're religious about oil and filter changes I beleive you'll be good to go. Just for ***** and giggles I'm going to send a oil sample out for test at 10,000 miles just out of curiousity. Normally I do my changes at 5,000 but one long change won't hurt. Even if it does the warranty will buy me a new engine.
For the average person and average running conditions follow the OLM....but seriously if you push your turbo any, I'd highly recommend you not run to 10k for oil changes, but its your engine, your turbo that will suffer......
Again follow w/e practice you wish...But according to BTF 30% of the turbos are having oil start to cake on the K04's he's received, you own an engine that does need a little more care then your basic run of the mill setup, for that reward you get performance. Just like running 87 is bad for your car, but if I remember I thought I saw a post where you argued that wasnt true......I still follow basic practices from owning several turbo cars and having experience dealing with them....
Again follow w/e practice you wish...But according to BTF 30% of the turbos are having oil start to cake on the K04's he's received, you own an engine that does need a little more care then your basic run of the mill setup, for that reward you get performance. Just like running 87 is bad for your car, but if I remember I thought I saw a post where you argued that wasnt true......I still follow basic practices from owning several turbo cars and having experience dealing with them....
Last edited by buellfooll; Jan 30, 2010 at 02:17 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Joined: 06-02-08
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From: TN
Why would it be hard to believe? Its only written everywhere. Given the long oil change intervals recommended by the oil life monitor, the turbo, and your conventional oil assumption they would likely not want to offer much of a warranty. Unless they really like keeping the dealerships busy with preventable warranty repairs and losing even more money.
I didn't change the oil myself. I swinged by the dealer after I bought the stuff and made sure it was on paper. Castrol Edge is GM Oil approved, so I'm not worried about warranty work being an issue. I just think Castrol is way better than Mobil1.
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Joined: 10-06-09
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From: Newark, DE
just for reference, here's a table posted by GM on the oils approved under the GM4718M requirement...it's almost a year old, so there COULD be some other oils, but then again they probably would have updated it. idk. either way, here's a list of approved oils. 
http://www.gm.com/corporate/responsi...ngine_oils.pdf
http://www.gm.com/corporate/responsi...ngine_oils.pdf