I don't know. ask area47, he says it's his base meth tune that he starts everyone on before he tweaks it. Only we didn't tweak mine since we didn't have a working AFR.

 

area is good you are safe and close enough...meth rocks and two things cross my mind.1. the quicker you are, the harder the gains, incrementally. 2. the time you shave off the line is worth double at the end. You are already have sub 2.0 60fts. your job is that much harder...and i am guessing you will have to pay as much attention to set up, weight transfer and balance, and tire traction, as you have to cooling and tuning, to make gains. Finally your stock clutch will soon yield to all this hard work you are giving it....mine did. Its fine on the street fine on the road race track, but the drag strip really hurts it especially in the 2-3 shift. You gotta wait for it. If you gotta wait, your time suffers...good luck, great work so far...

 

so what do you think my problem is then? slicks too big? Why didn't I gain more from my additional mods?

 

Do you have drag bags, or stiffer shocks in the back? I didn't see any on your vbgarage

With the slicks as tall as they are, all the weight is probably shifting to the rear. The drag bags or shocks would help keep the weight of the car mainly on the front wheels.... which should help you out alot.

 

x 2

 

yep, I have drag bags.

 

what are your intake temps when you finish the 1/4 could your car still be heat soaking itself

 

no, not really heat soaking. The one run I logged, I was just sitting in the staging lanes waiting and it cooked the IAT's up to 104, when I made my pass, it was 113 at the end. So not really heat soaking. When I made a pull on the interstate after I left the track, IAT started at 88 and ended at the very TOP of 3rd 103degrees. So I don't have heat soaking problems.

I'm ordering a wideband in about a week and a half. I'll figure out the tune then. But for next season, I'm dropping to a 15" wheel and going to try a smaller slick. Not sure if I should do a 22" tall or 24.5" tall. If I do a 22" tall, I'll get into 4th gear in the quarter.

 

24.5 tall. 22 will be too small. Another thing with swapping the brakes, It will give you a 4X100 instead of that retarded 5X110 so your light weight wheel option opens up like. Hell, you could score some Rota Slipstreams from a local honda guy for cheap and they are only 12ish pounds in a 15in size.

 

I'm sticking with my 16's and going to a Hoosier DOT drag radial. 225/50/16. 24.9" tall. That's the smallest 16" slick I could find. 15" wheels are just too much work. I'm cheap, not rich.

 

You can get money trading brakes with the cobalt guy. That gives you money for other things.

 

It's not that easy john, and if I trade brakes, I'll end up not being able to use my stock rims which I love the look of.

I'm sticking with my 16's for now. Maybe I'll grab a set of 4lug brakes out of the junk yard.

 

im tempted to do 275/40 17 dot hoosier drag radials, 80 inches but with a 4.45....

 

yea, with a final drive that's already big, you'd be fine. But I'm still on the stock 4.05, so I'm dropping my slick height in order to gain gear.

 

need power to go fast

 

I think the power is there, the gearing is hurting me.

For reference, a friend of mine in Guam was running high 11's at 118mph in his nitrous'd Mach1 on a 26" tall slick. He went up to a 28" tall slick and was running low 13's at about 103mph. Obviously he went back to the smaller diameter tire.

So I don't think I'll see a 15mph difference, but I do think there will be quite the gain to be had.

 

its a rule of thumb turbo cars like tall gears to run more boost longer... na cars like short gears cause they get the power faster....

im guessing sc cars are more like na cars than turbo cars cause its instant boost like an na motor

 

Would having a small slick or dr's help with the 1/8th or more just 1/4?

I only have 1/8th mile tracks near me.


Point being for my 1/8th would the 26's be fine or should I look into something smaller?

 

I couldn't tell you right now as I haven't tested it out. I know for a fact right now though that the 26" slicks work great, hook hard, and I haven't had any problems as far as clutch or breaking drive shafts. But I do let my car cool down for about an 1-1 1/2 hrs so as to let the clutch cool off. If you were to back to back runs on slicks, I think the stock clutch would slip easily.

 

Hot lapping wouldn't bother me, last time at the track I would do 3-4 runs in a row (wasn't a big line at the track).

Centerforce DFX FTW


I can't make up my mind between some Hoosier QTP's or M/T ET Streets though.

BTW I already have 2 16x7 rims lying around.

 

Well, with a clutch already, you'd be perfectly fine. buy my slicks then and you'd be set!

 

Buy my cams then I'd be set

 

Are you telling that when you go with a smaller tire size, you can change the gear ratios? For example the second gear end at 95 mph instead of 105...? Pardon me if I don't understand, this would be something new to me... I never thought this! *Edit* Changing the tire size but keeping the same height so the car really sits in smaller tires...

 

it doesnt change the final drive ratio it changes the ratio of your gear and tire combo. so your actually only going 65 in second instead of 75(what your speedo says) ( just numbers) your gears are the same your rpms are the same but your tire is smaller so it covers less ground at the speed your engine is spinning... so you accelorate a bit faster and you get through the gears faster, also the smaller tires usually weigh less so you help everything out that way. the only bad thing is third gear is usually the end gear at the drag strip in these cars. if he gains 2 tenths in the 1/4 he might lose 1 tenth shifting into 4th, again just numbers...

 

the fourth gear shift doesnt hurt much coz the torque is there when u do...but no doubt shifting takes time....