If you let me borrow it then I can more than likely get you a buyer just from putting it on the dyno. But we'll talk business tomorrow.
The pacesetter would be cool, since I have the one from ralliartist on the way. They could be done back to back, and the differences would be relative to each other.

Thanks. It isn't cheap to do. Especially when you're spending beer money for dyno time. But I'm having a good time doing it, and you guys are getting an idea of what will work best for you.
It was around 90* yesterday when the runs were done.

They're up now.

 

im thinking the zzp is gonna kill these numbers

 

well, that remains to be seen. The only downside to the vibrant combo on mine was the collector and dp.

I already did the stock, and the noodle header. I have a hahn that I am summoning up, and maybe a zzp if things go right. I don't know of anyone with a cti header, so that's probably going to be the end.

well, hurry up and get down here.

 

i cant wait to see the cti #s.

 

I can't get hold to one. Someone has to donate.

 

so far u have lost power from header? is the stocker really that free flowing? have u tested the gmpp one since thats honed?

 

Thats what I was wondering. Are all these dynos on the same tune? or was the stock header maxed out, then all the aftermarket ones on the same tune?

 

That's all answered in this very thread...

 

I went and read it again now. I was just confused, and still am, as to why the stock combo is making the most power so far.

 

ya, im starting to feel ok that i got the gmpp header. even tho i didnt want it but dang it made the most power

 

That is not the GMPP header, taht is stock.

 

definitely looking into the aftermarket headers vs gmpp

 

one of the problems with the vibrant is the primaries collect at a hard angle.

the cti would perform less than stock at the way this is going.

 

ik that but the gmpp one should be a little more free flowing.

 

Thanks for this thread DS.

I've been stuck in the decision with what header I should get.

You think you could post the links to your dynos on the first page, so we don't have to sort through 9102854712 pages to find them?

=)

 

You gotta look at the combinations. The stock header was coupled with a 3" downpipe. I'm not going to use a 2.5" dp unless it's absolutely necessary. The jbody (noodle) header could couple to a 3" so I chose to do so. The vibrant was made to be a 2.5" collector and have a 2.5" exit into the catback. It would perform way better had it been a 3".

Both Joe and I are kinda scratching our heads because he feels it should have done better. I'm still having trouble with burst knock upon laying into the throttle. So in the background, we are still trying to find a middle ground but he thinks that the tune might have been skewed slightly. Meaning that the timing wasn't where it needed to be so the tune would be on level with what was run with the stock header.

Theoretically, that would also say that with a few degrees lacking on the last runs being added to it, that it would perform better. Regardless of the fact, the vibrant has way more room to work with, and I think that is the misconception here. It is by no way limited to the numbers that we came up with on Monday. Like I've said before, we are committed to doing things right, and that's why we did the dyno on the noodle header twice. If he finds something that leads him to believe that it wasn't level due to us hunting down the burst knock..., then it'll be on the dyno again. We don't want to leave anyone wondering.

Bottom line..., the vibrant is definitely worth buying.

It's not a bad piece, but I know that there will be a few that perform a lot better than it. I have about three in mind that will perform in the upper echelon.

The clear image is going to be next once we know for sure that the vibrant was on an even level.

 

Oh I got ya now. Thanks for clearing that up! Just curious, have you considered dynoing a downpipe with a cutout open vs. closed?

 

that would be cool..

 

It would be easier to find results in this thread if you could update the first post with them as they come in. Please

 

That has been brought up to me. I would try it, I just need one with a cutout already welded in.

I plan on doing that tonight, since I've had a few requests for it.

 

I wish I had put mine in the downpipe so I could send it to you, but I put it at the beginning of the catback and its all welded

 

It wouldn't be reasonable to expect someone to send their whole exhaust to me.

 

are these being down with or without a cat?

 

All of them now will be done with a catted downpipe. I had to do the noodle header without one because I blew it out right before I dynoed with the stock header. The flexjoint on the inside also collapsed on me, so it had to be done. Either way, the horsepower sacrifice is less than 3 hp in most cases. Not enough to make a real difference.

 

I would send the piece its on because its the only piece that detactches but its still like 3 feet long and I doubt it would just happen to be cut in the same place you exhaust is lol