You ain't kidding! I've spent all damn weekend working on my car from dusk till dawn, and still no positive results yet. I'm damn close to the breaking point on this project I've undertook here. The real issue is that I don't want to bail on the project, but the car ran so damn great with my 2.6" pulley setup, that this is really aggrivating me. I already have the stock blower and parts sold, and I would **** those people off to if I had to refund their money on the parts they awaiting me to ship. Plus, I have drilled into the manifold adapter plate, so I would have to eat the cost of the blower and that too. **** this really sucks because I still don't think it's the kit, but I'm not sure what the deal is here! I've looked over everything possible and now I am out of ideas other than I know the car needs to be tuned.

Question to everyone:
Should I still be able to get the full 18-20 psi even if the car is dumping fuel? The test subject with the stock exhaust made 20psi. I know that my car has the CTI header and Corsa exhaust, but I think I should be seeing more than 12psi max.

 

Are you positive your boost gauge isnt bad? if i remember correctly a guy on here just got a 2.9 pulley from nate and was only seeing 12psi. he found out his boost gauge was bad after a **** load of trouble shooting.

 

unless you have a faulty MAP/MAF sensor you should be seeing full boost even on a crappy untuned car. It also sounds like your car is either running in SD Mode or have a faulty o2 sensor located in the header will cause massive fuel dumping.

Do you have HP Tuners? If you do, log cylinder air mass, AFR's & timing and send me a log. I would also be doing injector pulse and injector duty cycle logging as well.

 

My idea lightbulb just went off! I think I have to go check something that screw my entire world up if it isn't correct! If this is the problem, I owe you one!

Nope not it. I thought that I might have forgotten to turn off the second o2 sensor stuff before reflashing the car this last time, but I did.

 

Whit what device are you logging the boost ?

You know what ? I'm thinking of something ...

Have you plug that small vaccum hose that goes from the top on the intake manifold to the stock by-pass valve selenoid ? Or that hose is cracked ? Or it's bleeding boost by the selenoid itself ? You are boosting 12 PSI maximum right ?

 

Is it a solid 12psi or is it bleeding down?? Factory boost gauge??

 

The hose that goes onto the intake manifold is still functional as the kit doesn't change it's configuration, and looks to be in good shape. I could replace it tomorrow with another piece of vacuum tubing to check, but I don't think that's my issue here for some reason.

The boost gauge should be fine too as it worked this past week all the way to 18psi, so I'm thinking it accurate especially since the car isn't exactly hauling ass like it should either if it was running the boost it supposed to.

Well, I have to get up early for PT tomorrow morning. I'm gonna sleep on this one and maybe tomorrow will be a brighter day.

It starts of snapping to 5psi and works upto 12psi by redline in 3rd gear. I don't know WTF is going on, but I know this is one of those times a CEL would be welcomed to point me in the right direction!

 

But I'm wondering where that small hose (the one that was plugged between the by-pass valve selenoid and the supercharger by-pass valve) is now plugged ?

 

It's connected to my new bypass valve now.

 

And on your previous setup with Eaton M62 and 2.8 pulley it was also plugged to the Eaton by-pass valve ? If yes were you running a GM Stage 2 reflash ?

 

Is it possible that your belt is slipping?

 

its nothing functional with the kit he added, it has to do wit hthe shitty tune, id suggest correcting your lousy a/f before moving forward, the lack of boost isnt the reason ur car feels sluggish.

 

Its not the bypass valve functioning differently and the car bleeding boost, is it? What is the PCM set to open the bypass at? I know it shouldn't be this, just thinking.

 

we're going to test a few more things with 2K5SS/SC?, seems like it's bleeding through the bypass.

 

It's definately bleeding boost somewhere...I don't know if it's relevant to your situation or not but do a search for my post of "Only boosting to 2.5lbs. WOT" under my screen name and see if that will give you any ideas...

Aww **** it here ya go...Won't boost over 2.5lbs at WOT !!!
Pay close attention to post #40...

 

I have an idea now as what to check once again. I'm going to do it and I'll let you guys know if it works. I pray this time that is what is going on!

 

good luck... hopefully you fique it out....

 

Fingers crossed for ya

 

Good Luck!

 

A bad maf and/or map will not reduce boost. Tho a bad crank/cam correlation seems to close the throttle above 6000rpm. A bad maf/map will cause p0068 and limp mode unless the p0068 check is disabled. You'll definitely know if its limp mode lol

Also narrowband o2s aren't used during PE mode and even in PE mode only lean long term fuel trims are used.

On a car without p0068 disabled the maf would have to be dipped on water to go into SD...to get extremely hi airflow reading...otherwise itll p0068

 

The only reason I said that was since he is not using a mechanical boost gauge and using this crap boost gauge that comes in the car that doesn't really give a true reading of metered boost. Our boost is electrical gauge correct? Meaning it meters air based off another sensor?

I dunno.. I wouldn't blame the hardware you bolted on so much as you perhaps missed a step putting everything back together. Anything I think of is pure speculation based upon experiences with other member cars.

 

i would break it all down, and start oevr. it is possible (as stated above) that you might have missed comething.

 

Why not pick up a cheap ass machanical boost gauge from a local store, and run it outside the car and do a 3rd gear pull. A bunch of people on here have had their gauge break as they were swapping pullies or doing work to their car. I would hate for you to rip everything apart and find out it was as simple as a boost gauge. You might as well try it, its one of the easiest things you can test, or replace...

 

I dont think it is his boost gauge...If it were his boost gauge it would mean he would be pushing close to 20lbs. But you can tell he isnt pushing that much boost b/c his car is fuel tuned to close to 20lbs and he is dumping NASTY amounts of fuel....So im thinking it is the bypass valve, something isnt hooked up right....

 

please remember this.

just because you're not seeing knock, or your afr's are in the happy zone. does not mean you are fine.