I'll try and give it a try. did I ever send my tune and log to you yet? if so want to see if you can play with it in terms to getting more out of the maf

 

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...&postcount=931

You shouldn't be maxxing that really. MAF calibration really never changes, you are just using it to make up for lack of fuel pressure past 200kpa. If you are tuning AFR error while also running the injectors past their limit this would be why its happening.

 

yeah I'm not going to really mess with it too much more til my injectors get here tomorrow.... now it's not idling too good and I get random oil smoke out the exhaust... I thiink it might be time for that rebuild

 

Rut Rough Raggy! I hope your motor is not going bye bye. You don't think the oil could be coming from the turbo seal could be going do you?

 

nah it's a new turbo... I highly doubt it... just started doing that today... I always get a random faint smell of oil out the exhaust due to the lack of a pcv system.... but today was the first time it started smoking... I dunno going to take off the valve cover and drill and tap a -12an fitting into it for a better breather. hopefully thats it.
but it justy won't idle smooth anymore. I'll check for vacuum leaks and whatnot this weekend, but I don't think that's it

 

Well, if it is indeed terminal it was a great run while it lasted. I mean you have literally gone where no man has gone before!

You also swayed me into most likely going turbo when I get back! I was talking with Bill at Hahn and asked what he thought on an EVO III 16g like I was talking about, and he suggested his Super 16G or 20G instead for obvious reasons. I looked at the site and the Super 16G would actually be better than the EVO III as it has a little higher power rating, and comes with a standard t3 flange instead of the crazy TD05 one. Plus, it's only a little bit more expensive. We shall see, but I definitely would like to see what I can crank out of that. I'd probably just buy his manifold to go with the turbo as well. Maybe even the IM too while I was at it! I'm going to go broke fast. Can you PM me with how much the IM cost without the portfueler?

 

Let me know how you make out w/ that bro. I've been contemplating having that done before I get my valvecover coated, but wasn't sure if it would be a good idea at the power I'm at...

 

lol yeah I saw your post in that thread.
but I dunno about my car, it drives fine just idles like poop. I think there is a possibility I killed an injector, but I won't really know til tomorrow when I upgrade to the 79's since the 60's are beynd maxed at 5200 rpm (yeah already lol) I can't wait to have some fuel and an actual consistant afr so I can really get on it .
and the hahn manifold is the ****... I love this damn thing.

if anyone has time to kill and feels like watching a funny ass vid... this is the whole saga of my car on the dyno
http://www.motionbox.com/video/playe...gment_end=1060

 

told ya you killed the injectors. the no like 100+% duty cycle!!!!

::runs::

lawl

 

lol yeah man,,,, specially in the 135-165% range

 

I hope the 79# injectors do the trick for you Paul. Hopefully it'll fix your idle issues, and we'll all keep our fingers crossed that the piston rings hold in there for you.

I will most likely being doin the valvecover mod as well. I might weld in two provisions like the Honda guys do. I want to make sure the crankcase is well vented without a doubt.

 

well ****** ups lost my injectors.... goddamnit, now I gotta hunt them down cause I ain't leaving the city til I get them

 

do me a favor and ******* shank someone at ups.. everything i get delivered by them is beat to ****...

 

Just as an fyi, you know you'll max those things out just like the 60s. If I am at 7000rpm, I know you will.

BTW, I got your PM. We would need tools to take off the cam cover, cam bolts, front engine cover, the passenger wheel and fender liner, then the crank pulley and idler and tensioner.

 

I swear it's either hit or miss with them! At times they are spot on, and most of the time they beat your package, miss place it, or deliver it 3 days late! Bastards!

This is why I prefer DHL. Fast and cheap with no FUBAR packages.

 

just give it up! The import gods are rallying against you now! There is no hope...

 

so I guess I'll bring the whole tool box then lol.

yeah ups blows, I was waiting on 2 packages today, and both were lost or delayed... Everytime pretty much my **** gets screwed up somehow... I dunno.. USPS usually works out pretty good

 

The two wrenches that are weird and nobody ever has I think are 3/4 and 15/16 to back the cam gears off. One to hold the cam and one to spin off the gear bolt.

Lemme get Wes in here, hes good at remembering this ****.

 

Hai.

 

Also, the size needed for the chain tensioner.

 

hmm, don't remember what that was, but I should have everything up to 24mm with me. If it's any bigger, I hope there's an auto parts store nearby lol.
I really can't wait to see what this thing does with a good set of cams in it, cause right now I max out at 6000-6200 rpm's

 

I think parking lot cam install is gonna beat the parking lot rear end install they did last year.

At least it comes close in epicness.

 

I think it will top that... but that's had to been fun to watch. I know every rear end install I've ever done, there was a lot of blood and colorful language lol.
plus it's a 400+whp cobalt..... you just don't see those everyday

 

The Tensioner bolt size on the back of the head (technically the side) is a 32MM. Same as oil filter. Also bring torx and hex keys/sockets.

Other than that, bring your basic tool kit with sockets/ratchets/wrenches. Not sure how paranoid you are, but Al has my TQ Angel Meter for the stretch bolts. But we both agree, just make em fkn tight. Also bring a breaker bar or something for leverage, some of these bolts are very tight and need to be very tight again. Al has small arms.

Sorry I probably won't be making it.

 

I"m not really too concerned since he's done em before... just don't want to strip anything.
would I be able to use my 32mm oil filter socket, or should I just pick up a big f'n wrench?
as for torx bits I get those and the usual allen keys and whatnot.