so many going turbo now lol. Im still waiting for rods and pistons before mine starts to get back together. Sadly I may have to wait to get it back once its done due to finances.

 

will depend on your choice of turbo.

 

Let's say a Garrett t04e turbo

 

i'd say 20 is a good starting point. it's only a 50mm wheel. turbine a/r size will play a factor as well.

 

Even with the 0.57 trim compressor? And the turbine a/r is 0.63

 

*57 trim. not 0.57 trim.

trim is a ratio between the inducer and exducer wheels of either the compressor or turbine side. calculated by (inducer˛/exducer˛)x100.

a/r stands for area/radius and is a ratio between the inlet cross sectional area, and the radius of the wheel.

Wheel Trim | Turbobygarrett

Turbine housing A/R and sizing | Turbobygarrett

each will play a roll in spooling, peak power, and powerband. combine that with all the difference in engine designs. it's really almost impossible to say "this turbo will spool at this rpm" or "you need this much boost to make this much power".

 

also there's no need to get crazy with the oil feed line lol. the galley is already at an angle coming out of the block. and you can route it straight up to the inlet on the turbo.

don't mind the part that looks like a kink, just the way the flash looks.

 

that is where my oil line is too, I used an elbow because my turbo is so tight against my engine it runs right into the turbo, but its a 20g, so things are different, heck the turbo is even machined to clearance the water pump. You could not put a standard 20g on our cars without having the housing machined.

Anyway, depending on how you clock the turbo/CHRA, do not go more than 10 degrees of vertical (straight up and down).

 

Ah okay I see I see...thanks man I still have some ways to go regarding my knowledge in turbo systems, but I'm not actually going to do the build for another month and a half, two months maybe, so I have plenty of time to learn haha.

 

exsoccer just noticed a little residual oil on the bottom of the compressor. I get that too from time to time.

 

you don't want to vary at all. always have the drain racing straight down. and a minimum of a -10 line. -12 if you ahve the room.

yeah this was the old 62mm. had some issues with the crank case at one point and sent oil pressure way up there. you can see it on the back plate too. faults have since been fixed but i'm no longer on that turbo anyways.

 

Speaking of oil lines, does the return line have to go to the oil pan? If so, then would I need to fill more oil during oil changes than before? Would ZZP's oil feed and return kit be the best option?

 

no you don't need more oil. and it's not hard to piece together your own lines and fittings. but it's always easy to buy someone who's already done it for you and everything will arrive together

 

do you know how much 10 degrees off is, by the time you get the turbo perfectly clocked and that line is as vertical as possible I bet you a million bucks it not perfect. You have wiggle room is what I am saying. Shoot you change the tires on your car for the track it could make the thing off 10 degrees. If you stance (stupid thing to do in a built car) but it would be off to some degree. Some things are not worth being **** about. I was just mentioning it while we were talking lines.

 

And it would probably be a lot cheaper to piece it together myself as well...the only problem is where would I get the bung that needs to be welded into the oil pan? And what lengths do I need for the feed and return lines?

 

Depends on what turbo you use along with the efficiency of all your other parts. A decent sized turbo should only need 15-18psi to hit 300-325.

There are a hundred different variables that will affect your numbers though.

 

Get a GT40 and run 10 psi and call it a day! Lol

 

what do you guys think i'll put down with my 5431 billet? on 20psi right now but upping to 25 this week i belive. Looking for around 400whp but the dyno is a free wheel dyno i belive. a lsj put down 205

 

The 5431E has some meat to it... 20psi should net you high 300's, depending on your set-up and, more importantly, the tune. 25psi should put you at or above 400whp. It's just a number, though... it gives you piece of mind, but don't hang your hat on the number. You could hit 5 different dynos and get 5 very different numbers over a 50whp range.

 

Makes sense. just wondering. only worries are the block. its a gen II though. heres my setup

PTE 5431 billet, zzp manifold, zzp catless 3' down pipe, 3 inch borla cat back, k&n typhoon intake, cx racing hot side, zzp lsj-t cold side w/maf reloacte, hks ssqv w/ purple insert, 80's, mpx intercooler, tial 38mm WG, weisco 9:1 pistons, eagle rods, zzp #82 VS, arp studs, and ky stage 3 clutch.

 

500-550 whp daily.

 

Ah, didn't realize you had a built block; it's a shame you've got that entry level turbo on there. One of their DBB turbo's with newer aero would do well on there. The LNF block is nothing to worry about from a POWER stand point. You're good to run 25psi or more, assuming you have a competent tuner.

 

Okay so I had an idea to move my stock intake to the other side once I do the swap and extend it as necessary, but should I keep the MAF on it or move it to the pipe that'll run between the turbo and the throttle body? Btw is the stock intake tubing 3 inch? I know the opening in the box is 3.15.

 

thats a good point, I havent had any crank case issues with my new setup (case under vacuum with an oil catch can) but I want to put a pressure gauge in there to see if my case is always under vacuum or if I need to do more to vent. right now I dont have any issues at 20 psi daily.



I do want to move up to a larger opening but this ebay setup cost me 15 bucks plus 6 dollars at oreillys for the brass 3/8 npt fittings for the intake and VC.

 

For DD i thought it would be perfect. I'm a 2.2 btw.