Basically I need to know the thread pitch and depth of the banjo bolt on our head above the upper rad hose so I can replace it with one, that has a nipple

 

what do you mean with one that has a nipple. that's what a banjo fitting is.

 

It bolts into the head, there is no nipple, it is just a bolt, and then the line comes off it to go to the overflow

 

just pull the stock one. figure out the thread pitch from a hardware stort. then just get an earls fitting or something

Earl's Performance Parts and Accessories - SummitRacing.com

 

Yeah I have been trying to find one with a nipple on top and the side

 

Maybe run something like this, and run the coolant line from the turbo to this..

http://store.42draftdesigns.com/VW-M...tor_p_338.html

 

why do you need one on top? i've never head of anyone who makes one

 

Because the coolant line for the turbo is currently t'd into the overflow line about 6" from the bottle, and it seems to be pulling air in from the bottle, so we thought we would try and set it up like the lnf system

 

run it from the thermostat line and one from the drain from the coolant reservoir. i forgot how stu had it on the 3076 setup after he redid it but i never took pictures when i had the car. i can ask him if you'd like.

that's why i go with oil only lol

 

so you're saying instead of t'ing into the overflow t into the larger line into the bottom of the tank?

As an FYI I am running a complete LNF kit..

 

what turbo are you running?

 

In a word....Awesome!

Beautiful under hood shot. Stunning, really!

 

k04

 

correct. the larger line, and then one of the other coolant lines. i just can't remember which ones exactly

 

only the top line is the issue

 

Well so far anyway, we seem to fix 1 issue and always find another

 

Sti pink!

 

Hey is your new motor up and running yet?

 

oh yeah, took it to the dyno and put down 420whp at 23 psi. Backed it off to 20 psi and reduced the timing for 400whp and 395wtq for a daily driver; it was a beast for a while. That was about 6 weeks ago. Slowly I have developed a boost leak or an issue where boost wont go over 12psi at the moment. I believe after thorough checks for boost leak that my turbo is dying. I am going to start with a rebuild kit and have a local turbo company spin balance it. I cant find a boost leak anywhere and I checked everything. Hahn racecraft was very helpful and called me back several times to try and figure out what it is but we are still not finding any major leaks.

The turbo was used and had a rebuild on it, it may not have been spin balanced or rebuilt correctly so I am going to rebuild it.

 

I was just wondering how those sleeves were doing
Mine are waitin to go in.

 

From the first 100 miles of breakin to almost 1000 right now, they are awesome. I am very confident in my block after all the pulls it has and that was before a good break-in. I am very happy with them. Wont be completely sure though until I get a bigger turbo. I havent wrung out the 20g yet so i am standing by it right now but I feel my current setup is capable of 440whp daily.

 

I'm betting it doesn't need a rebuild... my money is on a leak between the head and the turbine; the WG flapper being a lead candidate.

 

I appreciate your input. It has been driving me nuts but all the bolts on the manifold are tight and I do not hear an exhaust leak... Going to pull it anyway to inspect it.

 

Me: 91 octane, conservative tune(infa was tuning me when we raced) 252et 20psi
Wrx: e85, 2.1 stroker and 20g. Not sure what the boost was at but infaredline(Taylor ) tuned it

40 roll I was in 2nd and the nt05's don't like the cold lol tracshun probs

 

I had a hairline crack almost completely around one runner on my last set-up. I could still hit full boost, it just slowed the spool down considerably. Never heard a thing either, I only noticed it because I saw part of my heat wrap turning black.

It'd be nice if there were an easier way to check it, like a fiber optic cable connected to a camera... something you see in a spy movie.

If everything on the intake side is solid though, the only real other possibilities are turbo mani or turbo. You did pressure check the intake side, right? I can't remember. I'd double or even triple check the Hahn I/M and I/C just to be sure they aren't cracked before I went through the trouble of tearing apart the exhaust side. Those Hahn items have been real bad about cracking.



On a side note, did you have any engine work or machine shop work done locally? I can't find anything around Texarkana. All I really need/want done is to have the block superbly cleaned... maybe even bead blasted so I can give it some color. Then I can put the SOB together.


Did you guys only run once? Sounds like he had a really nasty missed shift. Curious as to what the results would be like with a clean race.



Been a few years since I watched a race video. I had forgotten how horrible the quality usually is.