well i don't have enough on there to be able to gulp it down lol.

 

Well here is my EFR Dyno sheet. I got a way to go on tuning on it. Its pretty mild still IMO.
Going E85 here in a couple of weeks and will be raising the timing and boost on it.

 

I'm so jealous! I want that e!!!!

 

We will se how it does. Logs only show 8-10* did see almost 12* yesterday.
Its got room to grown adding a much bigger meth nozzle since its around 5gph i would guess right now. If not going E85 instead and solving that issue instantly.

 

Yeah I was going to go meth...but I'm more then likely moving somewhere with e shortly....hopefully I can make 450+

 

Look what just arrived on my porch



Got quite a bit for 130 bucks

 

Well I just joined the zzp short block club! Going with diamond pistons and k1 rods. Hopefully on e and a whole hell of a lot of boost we will get this bitch to 500 hp.

 

right on!

 

K1 rods...aren't they technically not K1 but made by the same guy?

 

Stock lsj rods are good for over 500...why spend the money on new ones to hopefully get to 500??

 

Why not? Basically is the answer lol. You have everything apart and are doing all the work and spending money on nice parts. A few hundred bux is worth it to some to have a little extra piece of mind especially if you have to replace damaged stock ones anyway.

 

lol now we know what you look like.

 

Didn't know know stock ones were damaged...I just go til things break them rebuild hahah first motor the rings took a poop due to zzp canned tune, 2nd motor due to cometic, 3rd is still alive haha

 

Mine were lol...dunno bout the original poster you were referring to tho. My car will be done soon...sadly no sleeves.

 

Did mine in a weekend :p haha dat bawss status. Next day airing stuff sucks lol

I blew my motor and built it on the same weekend with infaredline...like you guys care haha

 

That's something along the lines of what I heard. I'll take a pic of the box and the rods to show you.

LSJ rods are good between 450-500 depending on lots of environmental factors. I'm trying to get to 500 hp without any ther issue. Everything in the bottom end is fine, but for the cost of ripping it open to clean out metal shavings and replacing one whole cylinder, it was more worth my time to start with a more solid foundation to get to where I want to be at.

And thanks to mongorat, I didn't exactly spend full price on those BNIB rods

 

So as you can see from the box, and sort of from looking at the rods, the brand clearly says "K1 Technology"

Upon further research, K1 technologies appears to be a subsidiary of Carillo rods and the group PMI. What really sets the quality of these rods is their founder, Tom Molnar, who has 25+ years of rod and crankshaft building experiencing from the racetrack. He's a master CNC programmer as well, so needless to say his rods are legit. (http://k1technologies.com/Portals/0/...%20Article.pdf).

 

So, I'll still be on the s20g when this happens. I also have a gen. 1 rsfs from ottp and 80's. I'm on e85 as well. Is it possible to reach 500 with that current set-up, or would I need bigger injectors or an additional pump?

 

Yes, Tom founded k1. And he left a year ago because he handed over control of the company to a group, who is part of corillo. He left because profits were their only concern. All manufacturing moved to china, even finishing. K1 is nothing like it used to be. Your rods (the ones from mongo) were made long enough ago that I'm sure they are fine.

Tom started his own company, molnar technologies, a year ago. Those of you looking for rods now, call Tom. His number is (616) 940-4640. He will take the time to answer any possible question completely, and explain the REASONS behind everything, not just a generic "they'll hold Xhp"

I simply cannot say enough good things about him.

 

every k1 rod ive seen said made in china on them

 

Yes. Manufactured in china. As are eagle, molnar, zzp, pauter, etc.
the good ones are finished (final machining, HT, shot peen) over here.

 

i like my crower rods 100% American made

 

That's my brother in the senior picture lol

 

You don't need meth, period. Certainly not for 20-22psi.

You absolutely NEED the front O2 sensor.

It's not a "smart" light. It doesn't know what you have under the hood. Mine was never even consistent.

Weight. Using the lightest components possible will help you to make more power. Less rotational mass, blah, blah, blah. With that said, I don't know that the stock rods are lighter, but I'm betting they are.

You aren't going to hit 500whp with the S20G. If you hit 450whp on the S20G, pat yourself on the back, you did a good job. They just don't flow enough.

 

This...

If I see 440 on E at 25psi I will be happy. On stock fuel pressure with just 80lb injectors we started to run out of fuel at 420 on a dynomite dyno. Pulled it back to 410 on stock fuel system with 18 degrees timing up top. The 20G just doesnt have the guts to go 500. My next turbo is either going to be a pt5862 or pt6262. But that wont be for some time.