I enjoy the fact that my car runs awesome. I dont doubt you have put the time into your car and many others but man you just cant let anyone on this forum give an opinion on a tune. The link you posted only backs up my 3000 rpm setting and has nothing relevant in there about the IDC doubling. In fact what I have taken from that thread is people were NOT having issues like others with IDC and WOT. I am well over 3K when I go WOT. My tuner has a lot more time tuning many different cars and has probably just about seen it all. I am only trying to be helpful and my car runs amazing.

 

Thanks!

 

you clearly didn't read the thread or do any searching of your own. i am not going to spoon feed you. if you want the real reason as to why, do the searching. you can give your opinion all you want to. when you tune your own car and when you have gone through what most people have in trial and error.

hear, let me quote myself. twice from that thread.

just because the wot point is above 3k rpms doesn't mean **** on when it freaks. i guarantee you there is compensation in your maf scaling for this issue.

later on it, this issue rears it's ugly head again when pushed even harder.


the short end of it. i have been down this road. a lot. m62, tvs, turbo, doesn't matter.

 

I love my 20g, you can probably get 350 out of it with the right supporting mods. I made 338whp at 15 psi with a smaller displacement. If I have learned anything out of the 2 times I have built my engine now, its that the tune is everything. You can have all the best parts in the world but they will quickly become a loose pile of metal parts if you (me) assume too much of your tune. Its got to be done right and I know my limitations so I got help... and a dyno.

 

I run mine at 1500. I'm a badass though.
Seemed to help cammed idle.

There's things in the PCM we can't see, therefore can't change.

Deal with it. Correctly.



While on this topic, I present one of my fav quotes ever...

 

i like titis

 

LOL, still tell people about that at meets. Told my tuner that too and got a good laugh at it too; but he gave VE a shot with my car and all is well. You can pull the MAF and my car still runs fine in respect to getting from A to B. Doesnt run as well but that was the point, its there to back up the MAF.

 

Meh I ALWAYS have my netbook (best tuning computer ever IMO) and cable in the car; if maf ***** the bed guess I'll be ve tuning on the fly.

 

So I made my own intake out of the charge piping I got and a Spectre filter...

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

With PCV port built in
Now I have a small question...I used a 1/2" fitting, will that be large enough? The stock line doesn't look any bigger than that, unless I'm mistaking. Secondly, does it matter if the catch can I get is baffled or not?

 

Put a garden hose on it if you like; flow is dictated by the smallest orriface.

As far as baffles, as long as oil spray/vapor can't freely pass on through it ill do its job. Oil is heavier than air... As long as airflow is changing direction in there somewhere the oil will want to fall.

 

350 is going to be a stretch for me. i only made 210whp on a 3.0 pulley and all supporting mods. hoping that e85, and 15 psi on the 20g will get me there though

 

Rock stuck under the gas pedal? Geesh...

 

2.2L. Lol

 

lol no. it was a conservative tune on my 2.2. hoping that the 2.8 with a little more aggressive tune will set me at 225-230

 

I am using brass 3/8 fittings at the VC and turbo intake. I tapped my VC and intake with a properly sized tap then used plumbing sealing tape on both threads. Works great for my 22 psi setup so far. I will say that I am not satisfied with the venting yet however. I am afraid its affecting the oil coming out of my turbo, causing pressure issues with turbo seals.

You should be fine as long as you are getting good compression on your pistons, otherwise a lot of blow-by will build up in the case.

 

that is why I said previously "with the right supporting mods". Does your 2-2 have anything else done to it besides power adder(s)?

 

Oh yeah of course, that's what I was thinking, the oil will fall one way or another so long as the fittings on the can are on opposite sides. Haha so long as it's 1/2" I don't really mind :P

And I don't think I've been having any issues with blowby so far, knock on wood haha. My car wasn't modded one bit before I purchased it, it's in surprisingly good shape mechanically considering how many owners it went through and how many miles it has. Yeah my fitting is 1/2", I hope it'll be sufficient, I'm going to be running a catch can too so that should help.

 

My catch can has a tube that is slightly longer than the outgoing tube. Works like a charm. Sorry need to clean the engine bay, its a DD. This is my 20 dollar setup. 15 for the catch can with hoses and clamps (ebay) and about 5 dollars for the fittings. I already had the tap for a different project.

 

Haha that's exactly what I had in mind man, will 1/2" line fit over the stock PCV fitting though? And lol yeah you should see my engine bay...I can't wait to clean and paint parts of it once I do the turbo swap, just a week and a half left to get through... :P

 

as in stock motor, clutch and trans (110k miles). 3" exhaust, k&n intake, dual pass, flow through tank, zzp s3 h/e, and 60's

 

the quote was taken out of context sunshine. the basis was behind running over 17psi where the ve table stops. or disabling the ve table all together.

with the dynamic set to an enable of 400 disable of 300, you're not 100% out of the ve map. this becomes very apparent when 98lb injectors are thrown into the mix. but not until that point. so a dynamic disable was given to us for fueling issues in the higher power cars. it wasn't a ve tuning problem, or a maf scaling problem. it was a confused ecm problem. this table eliminated that issue.

 

I know it was taken out of context silly... It was just funny.

Yes things changed when I switched to 1k's. it wasn't bad though.

I don't see what all the fuss is about. The homework has been done already. If people don't like it, or won't accept it, or think they have some magical new way, it's their problem.

 

sad to think they can reinvent the wheel when the how and why is already out there. oh well. i'll keep making power with them and know exactly how to counteract issues when the arise and keep the info to myself because it's impossible to have run into this issue 5 years ago and fixed it then.

 

Not sure if I would call it reinventing the wheel, that is generalizing it a bit too much. Just trying something different. Do you really think everyone takes what people put forums seriously everytime. Who should I trust first? The guy that builds ridiculous Vettes, backed by a GM dealer, that I am paying and includes follow up work and warranty or a guy on the internet. So its not personal its a forum.

I have to get my boost issue figured out then I am going to do a reattack on the VE to try it your way. I am rebuilding my turbo tomorrow. I have gone over my car and checked for boost leaks, they just arent there. I feel that after the build my oil had leftover machining fragments and dirt and probably wore the brass thrust and journal bearings. My oil filter was also causing a drop in my oil pressure due to the pure filth in my engine. Glad I did extra oil changes to get the crap out of there. But I have since done an oil change, compression check, spark plug change, boost leak test, and everything checks out and runs great. My oil pressure gauge is reading a lot higher pressures so that fixed my chain slap in my timing area with the revised tensioner I am running and the car is a joy to drive. So now I am left with just the turbo, so I am going to pull it and rebuild it with genuine MHI parts from G-pop shop and get it back to the 22 psi I was running the first few weeks after I was tuned.

 

Check to ensure the waste gate is opening and closing correctly