Official Turbo LSJ thread!!!
You are really overthinking this 07sssc. An s252et is a journal bearing turbo. Due to the small size of the turbo, it spools very quick. For your power goals you do not need valvesprings or balance shafts. I'm on a s256et on 25psi with a 100% stock engine
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Joined: 06-05-11
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From: Oshkosh,Wi
Ya Blazzin ive just had so much input form others im just trying to break it all down wih questions as they come up so i really know. when i put this kit together but thank u for telling me that..so i only order what i need.
you don't need a different turbo. I am running the s20g and all I did was remove the internal gate and welded it closed. Other than that, you will need a wastegate flange welded onto your turbo mani, and a dumptube. Also you want to make sure the spring in the wastegate is the right one for the boost that you're setup for.
you don't need a different turbo. I am running the s20g and all I did was remove the internal gate and welded it closed. Other than that, you will need a wastegate flange welded onto your turbo mani, and a dumptube. Also you want to make sure the spring in the wastegate is the right one for the boost that you're setup for.
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Joined: 04-29-08
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From: Hoover, Al
Well, I might be turning to the dark side eventually here. A blown Lsj ring (among other things) has gotten a bit expensive, and the idea of putting a new motor in is looking better and better each day 
you don't need a different turbo. I am running the s20g and all I did was remove the internal gate and welded it closed. Other than that, you will need a wastegate flange welded onto your turbo mani, and a dumptube. Also you want to make sure the spring in the wastegate is the right one for the boost that you're setup for.
well, I actually ended using a zzp log manifold that came with a wastegate flange already welded to it. So that's one way to do it. Other than that, it's really just a simple means of finding the most direct flow of exhaust on your mani and tapping that for the wastegate.
ZZP also sells all the flanges you need. But before you go out and get one, make sure that the wastegate you are getting doesn't already have one. I got a TIAL 38mm that already came with one as well.
built zzp motor with their 256et setup? 
ZZP also sells all the flanges you need. But before you go out and get one, make sure that the wastegate you are getting doesn't already have one. I got a TIAL 38mm that already came with one as well.
Last edited by mexi_loco; Sep 18, 2011 at 12:25 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
well, I actually ended using a zzp log manifold that came with a wastegate flange already welded to it. So that's one way to do it. Other than that, it's really just a simple means of finding the most direct flow of exhaust on your mani and tapping that for the wastegate.
ZZP also sells all the flanges you need. But before you go out and get one, make sure that the wastegate you are getting doesn't already have one. I got a TIAL 38mm that already came with one as well.:
ZZP also sells all the flanges you need. But before you go out and get one, make sure that the wastegate you are getting doesn't already have one. I got a TIAL 38mm that already came with one as well.:
Senior Member
Joined: 05-09-11
Posts: 613
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From: Kentucky
yea its a big leak. i only drove it home. i havent been hard into it. coasted it all the way home. its dying to spool at 3300 but im thinking the leak is whats keeping it from doing it then when it hits 5500 the pressure in the manifold is enough to spool it up.
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Joined: 05-09-11
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From: Kentucky
was i not lieing when i said the manifold is going to be a bitch? hahahah.
thats probably what they did. cause i was asking about the ewp anyways. i don't have ANY of the hvac lines haha. no t-stat housing, lines, compressor, condensor, oil cooler, whatever that pipe is called that goes from the waterpump to the housing, etc. thats why i want to go with a different piping setup so all you see is the cold side going in to the manifold. would look so clean
I figured it would not be over kill if i had my tuner dial down the timming a some and set my boost at 10-15psi. I figured its all in the tune. I just figured ball bearing turbo spools quicker and flows more air. then the joural turbo.s do. so i figured that would be the turbo to go with. an like someone said almost no lag which is a good thing.
would i need 78lb vavule springs and netural balance shaft ? to for this turbo build ?
would i need 78lb vavule springs and netural balance shaft ? to for this turbo build ?
you are making this too difficult, slow down, do some research and if you really want to know a **** ton about turbos and everything you need. there is a book, Maximum Boost by Corky Bell, that will get you perfectly set for turbo-ing any car.
asking questions is a good idea and easy way to learn but asking too many questions too quickly and getting confused doesnt help anyone. slow down, read things, and do tons of research, a lot of the questions you are asking have already been answered in so many different places. Honda sites, mitsu websites, nissan, subaru, ford, this site and tons of other sites. The information is there, you just have to research it. Try to stay away from companies websites because they are all trying to sell you something. Look for independent answers.
l8r,
PD
ratchet wrenches FTW! thats how I got mine in, also could help to listen the motor mounts and angle the engine forward to allow for more room between the block and firewall, just make sure you have a jack/engine hoist/something holding the engine up
l8r,
PD
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Joined: 05-09-11
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From: Kentucky
that's what my s20g is currently bolted to right now, although i should tell you that I have a custom vband and exhaust piece connecting it to the downpipe.
are you coming at it from the top or the bottom? what else is in the way, what is restricting you? you may have to take the turbo off, and remove everything, what causes the most restriction, I know and have a **** ton of specialty tools, I may have a solution just have to have an idea of what im up against
l8r,
PD
Senior Member
Joined: 05-09-11
Posts: 613
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From: Kentucky
if you were closer, I would definitely give you a hand. It took a lot of finesse but we got mine in.
are you coming at it from the top or the bottom? what else is in the way, what is restricting you? you may have to take the turbo off, and remove everything, what causes the most restriction, I know and have a **** ton of specialty tools, I may have a solution just have to have an idea of what im up against
l8r,
PD
are you coming at it from the top or the bottom? what else is in the way, what is restricting you? you may have to take the turbo off, and remove everything, what causes the most restriction, I know and have a **** ton of specialty tools, I may have a solution just have to have an idea of what im up against
l8r,
PD
Thanks for the help bro. Its between the two outlets on the drivers side. If I'm up top the open ended wrench won't fit because of the little block sticking out of the head. If I go from the bottom the coolant pipe won't allow me to get the wrench in the position I need it to be in. The turbo isn't anywhere near it. Idk what to do. I got tired of looking at it and decided to go at it again tomorrow.