252et lag is almost non existant

 

My motor has been turbo for most of it's life so shes still in pretty good shape. Poopercharger is what takes all the life out of it. All that damn heat from those things are the killer.

 

switch to an electric.

 

what are the benefits from the eletric to the regular water pump Ex?

 

better cooling. i've never seen above 180 with this setup. and being able to rev the engine a little faster since its chain driven. cleans up the engine bay as well cause it takes place of the ac compressor. so i don't have ac lines all in my engine bay. by switching to the electric pump, ac delete, balance shaft delete, my engine revs a lot faster. heres a video of the pump

 

ZZPerformance Electric Water Pump - YouTube

 

Can someone please let me know how they wired in their alternator????

Need to know asap

 

if you are using a 2.2 alternator you need to by the pig tale just it and then it is just 2 wires to connect

 

mmm i see, thanks for the info man.

I cant wait to i finish paying off the balt so i can start seriously building this thing. 1 year left or less though

So far i have to stick to hit 380whp as my current goal with stock internals until then

 

Yea. I got the pigtail I just need to know which wires go where

 

I live in TEXAS lol, no AC is on street car. Ill keep the AC, but the balance shafts are def going as soon as I can.

l8r,
PD

 

How much of a difference in vibration is there with neutral balance shafts? I'm kinda iffy on them, I know poly mounts were to rough for me on a street car

 

balance shaft delete removes the water pump and makes you go electric, which goes where the ac compressor goes.. unless you can get your hands on someone who can do the balance shaft delete but keep the factory water pump

 

balance shaft delete doesn't remove the water pump

 

neutrals don't. delete does, as far as i know. it's been a while since my first build, haha

 

the balance shaft delete kit uses idlers to keep the stock chain setup. they might have just left yours out completely though

 

thats probably what they did. cause i was asking about the ewp anyways. i don't have ANY of the hvac lines haha. no t-stat housing, lines, compressor, condensor, oil cooler, whatever that pipe is called that goes from the waterpump to the housing, etc. thats why i want to go with a different piping setup so all you see is the cold side going in to the manifold. would look so clean

 

I have a/c and a stock undercarriage, and all you can see under my hood is my cold side charge piping....and an air filter....and a hahn mani...

 

so, i just realized. with my friend buying my transmission. i'm only a ported head and 198s away from track times on 750+whp.

 

if the 252 is over kill for my goal of 350 what is a good turbo that will get me to 350. an i didnt think 700 bucks was that bad of a price on zzp's website unless im just being silly about it=...i have no clue

 

The 252et isnt $700 on their site. The 256 is $750 and from their description on the turbo kits they say the 256 is good for 350 whp.

 

Correct. The standard 256 is not extended tip. It does not flow as much as the more expensive ET turbos.

 

guys whats all i would need if i wanted to go external wastegate? i know i need a different turbo mani, another turbo, wastegate dump, waste gate obiously...what else? would my hahn dp work if i were to switch turbos

 

I figured it would not be over kill if i had my tuner dial down the timming a some and set my boost at 10-15psi. I figured its all in the tune. I just figured ball bearing turbo spools quicker and flows more air. then the joural turbo.s do. so i figured that would be the turbo to go with. an like someone said almost no lag which is a good thing.

would i need 78lb vavule springs and netural balance shaft ? to for this turbo build ?

 

or you could just modify the hahn mani welding a ewg flange on it and block off the internal on the turbo lol