TVS Dyno Number's
i tried 3rd and 4th and noticed no differences, my runs came on a dynapack dyno which uses rpm calibration and automatically loads it to 1:1, you could dyno in 1st gear if you wanted to and it would be no different
Joined: 09-29-06
Posts: 20,664
Likes: 217
From: Land of Freedom
The dyno is calibrated with a chart to determine parasitic loss of the car. This chart rises exponentially so it may only at 10HP at 60mph and add 50HP at 120. I have seen correction charts over 100HP at the top end.
So if the dyno is calibrated for a loss higher than what the Cobalt has at higher speeds, the chart would read higher than it is supposed to.
Now on the 3rd to 4th, technically the 4th gear pull should read higher because of the 1:1 gear ratio having less loss than the 3rd gear does. This is normally only a few HP though
So if the dyno is calibrated for a loss higher than what the Cobalt has at higher speeds, the chart would read higher than it is supposed to.
Now on the 3rd to 4th, technically the 4th gear pull should read higher because of the 1:1 gear ratio having less loss than the 3rd gear does. This is normally only a few HP though
we could go back and forth all day on this, but you get the general idea
ya and i really didnt like drivin with it.
timming 21.
wat i got for mods im happy with it for now.
wat i got for mods im happy with it for now.
Last edited by Jared B; Jun 14, 2009 at 09:37 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
that was only a 10hp difference. How different is the powercurve now? If you lost a bunch of power down low, then I don't think putting the stock tb back on is worth it. losing 10 peak hp is worth it for 15hp through the powerband.
Can you post up both dyno sheets of stock tb vs ls4 tb?
Can you post up both dyno sheets of stock tb vs ls4 tb?
mine made 290 whp also and 247 wtq with the ls4,its a touchy ****** ill tell you that. im droping down to the 75 mm pulley so i can have more tq and hp. my car only hits 20 psi at 7100i think the 75 mm pulley will let me have more boost down low and hit 20 psi at 6600, that way i dont have to wrap the moter that high to get the boost im looking for. I think it would be eaiser on the moter that way,
I'm not sure if this is feasible but.....you should put the lowest pulley on the blower that you can run safely without damaging the blower itself and then limit your boost pressure with hp tuners. You'll get more torque and the boost will come a little faster. I'm pretty sure you can do this through HPT.
there are a few problems with your logic. the bypass is slow. your car in first and even second will boost 100 percent before it opens. so your looking at 30 or so psi way early. its not good on stock pistons, and second is your blower will be spinning at that speed all the time. so its life span will be cut way down
So your telling me if I set the boost reduction to only 50% in 2nd gear a person who normally boost 20psi would not boost 10psi? I think not. I have tried, tested and proven that boost reduction in hptuners DOES in fact work. Granted the TVS applications might be different as I have never "personally" tuned a TVS before, however boost is boost and limitations from ecu's are limitations from ecu's lol.




. Drop the pulley lower, add more timing, and beat the **** outta it lol.