Installed Stage 2 Comp Cams Yesterday
07-21-2008, 05:12 PM
#151
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valves?
Last edited by o3nisoaso3; 07-21-2008 at 05:12 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
07-21-2008, 05:41 PM
#152
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i have factory bottom end, and rebuilt top end, as long as you dont exceed ~250 chp, your rods and pistons will be fine.
my head is being rebuilt at bates with the stainless valves and all his valvetrain parts
including comp cams stage 2 cams, i think the price was ~$1800
gotta include valves, valve job, and labor. then of course, after removing your head, you gotta get new head bolts/studs, head gasket, and gotta get someone to install and time it all. 
my head is being rebuilt at bates with the stainless valves and all his valvetrain parts
including comp cams stage 2 cams, i think the price was ~$1800
Last edited by bridfi; 07-21-2008 at 05:42 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
07-21-2008, 05:45 PM
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07-21-2008, 10:57 PM
#155
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the stock valves are good for 300hp. the only reason to get new ones is so they handle heat from a turbo or supercharger. Cause they generate a lot of heat in the combustion chamber. and the rockers are designed to handle 11,000RPM
07-21-2008, 11:43 PM
#156
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yeah but i dont think the stock valves can go 7000+ rpm...
is a valve? lol i think a slinky makes it move
07-21-2008, 11:57 PM
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think about this, there is added stress on the valves because of the upgraded spring. it FORCES the valve shut so fast itll make your head spin. you tell me how many times that valve can slam shut harder than normal, faster than normal, and most likely hotter than normal.
ray at bates engineering himself told me to go with upgraded valves. dont build half the top end, dont settle, do what you have to do to feel safe with the power and rev limit you have...
mine, at 8000 rpm, with valve springs that wont float until 8900 rpms, and cams forcing those valves open faster, and closing them faster, that all tells me to spend the extra 200-300 bucks..
ray at bates engineering himself told me to go with upgraded valves. dont build half the top end, dont settle, do what you have to do to feel safe with the power and rev limit you have...
mine, at 8000 rpm, with valve springs that wont float until 8900 rpms, and cams forcing those valves open faster, and closing them faster, that all tells me to spend the extra 200-300 bucks..
07-22-2008, 12:00 AM
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think about this, there is added stress on the valves because of the upgraded spring. it FORCES the valve shut so fast itll make your head spin. you tell me how many times that valve can slam shut harder than normal, faster than normal, and most likely hotter than normal.
ray at bates engineering himself told me to go with upgraded valves. dont build half the top end, dont settle, do what you have to do to feel safe with the power and rev limit you have...
mine, at 8000 rpm, with valve springs that wont float until 8900 rpms, and cams forcing those valves open faster, and closing them faster, that all tells me to spend the extra 200-300 bucks..
ray at bates engineering himself told me to go with upgraded valves. dont build half the top end, dont settle, do what you have to do to feel safe with the power and rev limit you have...
mine, at 8000 rpm, with valve springs that wont float until 8900 rpms, and cams forcing those valves open faster, and closing them faster, that all tells me to spend the extra 200-300 bucks..
07-22-2008, 12:04 AM
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just curious. seeing what order youre modding the car. i like to see how everyone does it kinda. are you going to go for a clutch n fly upgrade at all once your done with the motor?
07-22-2008, 12:08 AM
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i just had a baby on the 3rd so i really should be keeping the cost down as much as possible. i just wanted the valves so i could be done with the top end.
07-23-2008, 03:03 PM
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With this new Header your performance mods are going to almost be identical to mine.
Except I still have the stock lsj Cat with my OBX Header. My cams were shipped by TTR yesterday.
BTW are you still using your stock 2.2 TB with your 2.4 Intake Manifold.
Just curious cause I got the C.E.D. kit on my car
