exactly... supertech is cheaper than ferrea if you dont have that knida money and they are still good quality

valves?

 

i have factory bottom end, and rebuilt top end, as long as you dont exceed ~250 chp, your rods and pistons will be fine.

my head is being rebuilt at bates with the stainless valves and all his valvetrain parts

including comp cams stage 2 cams, i think the price was ~$1800

gotta include valves, valve job, and labor. then of course, after removing your head, you gotta get new head bolts/studs, head gasket, and gotta get someone to install and time it all.

 

why put all that work into the top end and not improve the bottom. 11 or 12 over cr and a new set of rods would be prime. hmmm.......sounds like something i'd do.

 

ill do it later. sounds like a good idea, but im just lacking the funds..

 

the stock valves are good for 300hp. the only reason to get new ones is so they handle heat from a turbo or supercharger. Cause they generate a lot of heat in the combustion chamber. and the rockers are designed to handle 11,000RPM

 

yeah but i dont think the stock valves can go 7000+ rpm...

 

Do you know what makes the Valves move?

 

is a valve? lol i think a slinky makes it move

 

think about this, there is added stress on the valves because of the upgraded spring. it FORCES the valve shut so fast itll make your head spin. you tell me how many times that valve can slam shut harder than normal, faster than normal, and most likely hotter than normal.

ray at bates engineering himself told me to go with upgraded valves. dont build half the top end, dont settle, do what you have to do to feel safe with the power and rev limit you have...

mine, at 8000 rpm, with valve springs that wont float until 8900 rpms, and cams forcing those valves open faster, and closing them faster, that all tells me to spend the extra 200-300 bucks..

 

is you got the manual or auto?

 

why would that matter??????


....manual...

 

just curious. seeing what order youre modding the car. i like to see how everyone does it kinda. are you going to go for a clutch n fly upgrade at all once your done with the motor?

 

well i know i should, but i really only built the top end because it dropped a valve. so i figured why not upgrade. i want to get the flywheel and clutch, but i figure a new factory clutch with new throwout bearing will be sufficient. for now, at least. of course ill do it one day, along with exhaust and bottom end upgrade.

i just had a baby on the 3rd so i really should be keeping the cost down as much as possible. i just wanted the valves so i could be done with the top end.

 

so vince has been data logging my car all day today and found a lot of hidden power in the tune he sent me

 

good news. hes going to email you an update?

 

i have had seven so far today.

 

damn Vince needs to get on those Ions...

i need to join the crew...

 

this should help with the cam performance NEW CIA header and downpipe

 

I'm going to have to re-order the Trifecta tune after hearing about this data logger
With this new Header your performance mods are going to almost be identical to mine.
Except I still have the stock lsj Cat with my OBX Header. My cams were shipped by TTR yesterday.

BTW are you still using your stock 2.2 TB with your 2.4 Intake Manifold.
Just curious cause I got the C.E.D. kit on my car

 

yea i still have the stock throttle body on the 2.4 swap

 

Any #'s yet?

 

They must have gotten lucky, it happens sometimes.

 

Well today i received my cam gear holding tool. guess I'll use it when i replace my valvetrain




And Vince has resolved my idling problem

 

so you still had to go with the cam gear holding tool anyways?

 

no i just ordered it cause everyone was on my ass about using zip ties to do work now i have the tool everyone can be hush about it.